wood glue

wood glue · 01-06-2009, 11:30 PM

what is the best glue to use when gluing a bowl to a block of wood that is attached to a faceplate when wanting to hollow out the bowl? thanks

Elmojo · 01-06-2009, 11:48 PM

Not sure about that specific application, but I use Titebond III on all wood-to-wood glueups and have never had a failure.
Plus, it's cheap and water-soluable before curing.
Anyone else have a better choice?

Mark Placek · 01-07-2009, 12:16 AM

I also use Titebond 3, a very good glue that works well with the exotic wood I use for my bowls. I don't ever remember this glue failing on me when applied correctly. It dries a little darker than normal carpenter's glue, and fills well. With any glue, I found that over clamping causes dry joints. The correct temperature, pressure and amount of glue you use will help you achieve a superior turning.

mbeach · 01-07-2009, 12:22 AM

mark, what is the correct way to apply it? never done this way before...

erasmussen · 01-07-2009, 12:47 AM

I use titebond 2 with a piece of brown paper between them, makes it easy to remove later

mbeach · 01-07-2009, 12:56 AM

Originally Posted by erasmussen

I use titebond 2 with a piece of brown paper between them, makes it easy to remove later

How long do you let the glue set before you turn it?

steviegwood · 01-07-2009, 06:43 AM

First let me say that I have never had any experience when it comes to turning. But having several years in a cabinet manufacturing plant I have had the opportunity to test several brands of wood glue. The very best test that we ever had was always Elmers Probond wood glue coming out with the best pull tests by a significant % higher than any other glue tested. Franklin Titebond was the second best in the tests that we ran. I will use either of the two in my own applications. Of course the company that I worked for decided on (in my opinion) an inferior lower priced glue due to keeping costs down. We used it in 55 gallon barrels (several per day). Just letting you all know from the tests that I have actually been involved in. Steve

NZAPP1 · 01-07-2009, 08:32 AM

Originally Posted by erasmussen

I use titebond 2 with a piece of brown paper between them, makes it easy to remove later

Mike
I am with Earl on this one I use Titebond II with a piece of brown paper bag between the pieces. I allow 2 hours at least before I turn. If I do not want to wait I us thick ca or double sided bowl tape with the tape you need to do delicate cuts but I have turned a complete 5" bowl just with tape.

CarvedTones · 01-07-2009, 08:35 AM

If it is a reasonably balanced blank and you are gluing side grain to side grain, just about any wood glue has more than enough strength. End grain tall forms are another matter. I turned a few goblets using a faceplate and I epoxied the blanks to the face plate.

CaptnA · 01-07-2009, 08:54 AM

I normally use CA for mounting. I am impatient and buy cheap from a member on another site (I know a site hopper....)
when I am in the mood to turn waiting for glue to dry isn't an option.
I've done it for years and can't say I've ever lost a piece this way. I'm also an over achiever and don't skimp on glue. If you've hollwed at all you know the torque you can be dealing with.
I also use ca for securing natural edges and for the occassional oops or punk. Good stuff to keep handy to the lathe!

CarvedTones · 01-07-2009, 09:35 AM

I didn't mean to imply skimping in my earlier post. It's just that there isn't as much stress on the joint as it might first seem. The centrifugal force is equal in all directions. When you cut, the torque is against the momentum of the spinning bowl. I have seen expert videos where that brown paper trick is used and the bowl is popped off with one hand when done (a good firm yank on it).

But again - don't skimp - overkill is good!