Sharpening Lathe Tools?

Sharpening Lathe Tools? · 09-16-2009, 06:35 PM

I would like a little feedback - as a relatively new-to-turning rookie, I am trying to learn to turn without buying all the 'accessories.' My question relates to sharpening.

I have a 9" disk sander that I am using for sharpening. At this point it is free hand (on HF chisels!), but I may need to construct jigs to get consistent grinds. That part seems very do-able.

I am questioning the approach though. I have 80 grit disk on the sander now and it seems to be adequate, although it may be a bit on the rough side. Is an 80 or 100 grit grinding wheel that I read about being used on a grinder equivalent to 80 or 100 sandpaper?

Does this approach sound workable for at least the short/medium term? Or am I missing something?

Henry

gator · 09-16-2009, 07:18 PM

You might get an idea for a homemade jig from this

http://www.woodworkingtoolsharpening.com/page3.htm

For some time before I got a slow speed grinder, I used a 1" vertical belt sander and had no problems. You could use a standard belt sander if you could rig it to stand upright.

George

Mike Davis · 09-16-2009, 08:11 PM

I use a diamond pocket stone and hit the edge every time I stop the lathe. My tool never gets dull enough to need grinding.

Woodman2k · 09-16-2009, 10:09 PM

Once you get your basic profile then 100 grit paper is too coarse.To answer your question 100 grit in the two forms is not the same.To really put a nice edge on your tools you should be in the 240 to 320 grit range using a sandpaper for metal.You should really invest in some friable 6 or 8 inch wheels for your grinder and then make your jigs for it.
Greg

Henry W · 09-17-2009, 09:37 AM

Thanks for the answers so far - that helps.

I don't have a grinder - that's why I asked about using a disk sander for shaping grinds. The 240/320/400 grit range sounds right to me now that you mention it; if I thought about it, that's the level I'd use in "Scary Sharp" usage for hand tools.

Mike - you touch up the cutting edge with a stone by hand for all lathe tools? That would seems relatively easy for scrapers (straight or curved) but more complicated for gouges, especially fingernail grinds (or whatever that shape is called). What 'grit' is this diamond pocket stone and how large is it?

Henry

CarvedTones · 09-17-2009, 09:51 AM

Henry,

My approach is similar to Mike's but I use a honing cone. Here is the one Klingspor's carries:
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-b...adItem=WK24730
It's 400 grit diamond.

I actually use this ceramic one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009YV7P
Yes, shocking, I know. I actually went with a more expensive option.

I really want one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rd_p=486539851
as it is easier to do gouges.

Mike Davis · 09-17-2009, 10:29 AM

Hi Henry,

It is all in what you get used to. I have been sharpening knives with a pocket stone for close to 40 years. I am used to it and feel very comfortable sharpening just about any shape.

I use a DMT diafold, it is 325 on one side and 600 on the other. I use it for just about everything except plane blades which require a much larger surface area. I have DMT 3 x 8 bench stones for those.

I think too many people fear sharpening and therefor wait until the tool is so dull that it is harder to sharpen. I touch up constantly and never have a dull tool. Also many don't understand how a really sharp tool looks or how it feels while cutting, they can't tell when they need to stop and touch up the edge. So, they just keep cutting badly and letting the edge get duller and duller.

Edit:

I missed your question about the size. I use a 1 inch by 4 inch DMT Diafold.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Do...AWvFuSv6wnpqdH

Henry W · 09-17-2009, 11:02 AM

Mike and Andy - thanks for the specifics on the tools, that is very helpful.

It looks to me like Andy is using a conical tool that I would imagine is useful to hone the flute of a gouge. Mike has a flat tool that looks impossible to use inside the flute, but once you're comfortable with it would be useful only on the outside edge of lathe tools (where I see grinders being used).

I am thinking that it is the outside surface that needs touch up with usage, while the inside of the flute would only rarely be honed. Am I right?

Mike your description of using tools that are getting duller and duller and cutting badly is likely right on - I guess I need to use a sharp tool to know what that feels like. I have noticed that there are spots on my roughing gouge and scraper that cut much better than others places on the same tool - so I do know a bit of "that feeling."
Again - reminder that I am very much a novice here. I have turned a few things but have MUCH to learn, especially about sharpening.

Henry

MrAudio815 · 09-17-2009, 11:13 AM

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

I think too many people fear sharpening and therefor wait until the tool is so dull that it is harder to sharpen. I touch up constantly and never have a dull tool. Also many don't understand how a really sharp tool looks or how it feels while cutting, they can't tell when they need to stop and touch up the edge. So, they just keep cutting badly and letting the edge get duller and duller.

Hey Mike,

I am sure I am one of those guys.

I know my tools are dull, and am sure I can't tell how sharp a tool looks and feels while cutting.

As I have only really been self taught in WoodWorking. My Grandfather is great at it, but never learned from him, and my Father is great, but he wasn't around. And I know there are many many more things I need to learn. Wish I could learn some of your skills!!!

Mind sharing a pic of one of your sharpened tools, next to one that you know needs sharpened, that one of us might not think does?

Thanks!

Mike Davis · 09-17-2009, 11:17 AM

I'll try to make some pictures this weekend.

You are welcome to visit, just let me know so I can clear some time.

Next weekend, the 26th, would be good.

CarvedTones · 09-17-2009, 12:08 PM

You use the cone everywhere - inside or outside. On the curved edge of a gouge, whether you use a flat or curved "stone" you only touch at one point, so a flat surface offers no significant advantage (nor does the cone). Of course on the skew and scrapers it's another story - the flat stone is a lot easier to use. But you can use the cone a few places you can't use the flat stone, like inside on a gouge. For turning, the flat is better because of the advantage on the skew and scrapers. I also carve and I like a tiny microbevel inside my carving gouges, so I prefer the cone for that but use it for everything. It's not hard to use on flat bevel surfaces, just not quite as easy as a flat stone.

Henry W · 09-17-2009, 12:10 PM

Thanks Andy - that makes sense

Henry

MrAudio815 · 09-17-2009, 12:27 PM

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

I'll try to make some pictures this weekend.

You are welcome to visit, just let me know so I can clear some time.

Next weekend, the 26th, would be good.

Cool can't wait to see the pic's.

I would love to stop by, but I am 3 1/2 hrs away and I have Weekend Duty that weekend...12hr shifts Sat & Sun. Maybe when I head up that way to wall Lumber with Earl I can stop by, it's about 40 minutes from Mayodan to your area.

Thanks for the offer