Who has the best cross cut sled?

[Mike Davis]

And how did you make it?

I threw one together 30 years ago out of 1/2 ply and some pine strips.

Now, I'd like to make a really nice one that is accurate, convenient, adjustable and versatile.

Or do I really need two sleds?

One for cross cutting and a separate one for mitering?

Also would like to make a tenon sled.

Not in a big hurry, I'll have to buy materials a little at a time.

[junquecol]

For square cuts, you can't beat Norm's current panel cutter. For miter cuts, I think the Dubby is the way to go- so much that I actually parted with the cash to buy one at the Charlotte show. Now that is saying something- I actually bought a NEW tool! With digital protractors getting cheaper, you could do an adjustable fence and set with a digital protractor.

[CarvedTones]

Jig, plans, finish - hmmm - not sure I have ever used all 3 words in the same discussion.
Sorry I can't be more helpful.

[jerrye]

Mike,
I have the plans for the Universal Jig in pdf format. I can email to to you if you'll PM me you email address.

[Terry]

I may not have pretty expensive one, but it works! Going to makes some modifications on this one, like a miter attachment.

[Joe Scharle]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

Looks like I need to save up for a bunch of T-track.

Could you loan me the plans for those Joe?

I see you have been offered plans for the Uni tablesaw Jig. hearlihy.com is where I bought my adj right triangle.
Are you interested is notes on the others, or just one in particular?
Joe

[Mike Davis]

Joe,

I like the small one since most of my work is small and the taper jig could be very useful not only for tapers but for straight line ripping too.

Thanks!

Just to be clear yes, the small jig and the taper jig.

[cubicdissection]

OK, here's pics of my latest crosscutting sled. As always, once I finish a new sled I'm ready to scrap it and start over because I learned so much making it.

Base is 3/4" cast acrylic. Fences are 1". The sled uses bearings a la Wayne Daniels to stau put, and rides on four UHMW plastic runners. All together this thing is RIGID and won't move like a plywood sled.

The runners are secured with two screws up into the bottom, and there are three set screws per runner which can be used to level the sled to the table.

The insert in the middle is removable so if it gets crapped out I can replace it. I made a drilling jig out of scrap 1/4 acrylic so I can tape it over the blank inserts and drill holes easily.

The front and rear fences serve to keep the sled rigid. The mid fence uses an adjustment device of my design. On the left the cutting fence is bolted to the base creating a pivot. On the right there is a nut fixed to the front fence...the bolt passes through it and secures to the cutting fence with nylon lock washers. When you turn that horizontal bolt you can micro adjust the angle of the fence to the blade for a perfect 90 degree cut.

The cutting fence rides on UHMW blocks so there is a gap under it. I use disposable MDF backing for my cuts. With the gap you can just hit the sled with some shop air and not have to worry about dust buildup where the fence and base meet.

For angles and such I usually just tape stuff down to the base and cutting fence with blue painters tape. Can make some pretty sophistocated jigs that way without having to mess around with drilling holes to receive bolts to go into tapped holes in the base. Plus once I set the adjustable fence to a perfect 90, the accuracy of any number of angle gauges can be transferred easily.

Things I would do differently:
-Use MIC6 aluminum for the entire thing. Cast acrylic is not very accurate in terms of thickness, so I had to tweak a bunch of stuff to get a flat surface. But hey, that problem led me to develop the adjustable UHMW rails, so it's not all bad. Can't use extruded acrylic as it's too brittle to machine.
-Move the inner right runner out of the way of the throat so I would not have to leave the throatplate in. Brainfart on my part there.
-Run 6 bearings instead of three so you don't have to worry about the front bearings leaving the T slots on the end of the table. May retrofit this one with that feature. Requires very accurately drilled holes though.

[Joe Scharle]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

Joe,

I like the small one since most of my work is small and the taper jig could be very useful not only for tapers but for straight line ripping too.

Thanks!

Just to be clear yes, the small jig and the taper jig.

I just emailed you the sled notes. Let me know if you don't receive the email. After you have had a chance to study those, email me for the measurements. For the taper jig you'll need to review the Universal tablesaw Jig instructions on how to install the miter slot runner.
Note that unlike the crosscut sled, a 1 runner jig WILL FIT FAT in the groove.
Joe

[Mike Davis]

Got it Joe,

I quickly read through it and it makes a lot of sense. Very clear and I don't usually understand a lot of verbiage. I'm more of an image kinda guy. I'll print it out and go through it in detail, taking notes and making sketches later.


Eric,

I used to make a lot of plexiglas jigs for routing plexiglass parts, silk screening odd shaped pieces and for heat strip bending when I worked in the kitchen wares business. They can be a pain sometimes. I did make one out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate one time. It was too heavy to use day in and day out.

Maybe if I had an overhead crane like Steve.

[Joe Scharle]

Mike,
The small sled is 15" X 24". There is no safety cover because I hold the piece with a pencil eraser against the stop and rear fence, so a cover would be in my way. The T-track slot was routed in after the REAR fence was made square. I just used the rear fence as a bearing surface and the distance is what it is.

The taper jig starts out at 12" X 36" and after the trim cuts comes to, on my saw, 10.5" X 36". I tried 10.5 X 48 at first, but it was unwieldy for me. 36" is enough on the table before contacting the blade, again for my saw.

Joe

[Sharp Blade]

Holy Mackeral...that's some sled! Don't trash that one, it looks awesome!

[norm932]

Mike, below is a link to the sled I use, the kit from Highland is about $30. You get miter slot runners and an lexan safety guard. You make everything else. I just made my own. This sled is great for 24" panels and one of the safest from cutoff kickback I have used.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...n=Custom&ID=86

[Sandy Rose]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

Sandy, I don't have any extra money for magazines right now.

Mike,

It's free...I don't subscribe to the magazine. I just went to the website and downloaded the .PDF files with all the jigs.

[Mike Davis]

Thanks Sandy,

Last time I looked I'm sure it asked me for a password. This time it went right in.