Sharpen, or Replace Jointer Knives

[junquecol]

This seems to be a common problem. A new set of knives from Global Tooling is often cheaper than sharpening. Also, Amazon often runs new Freuds for less than sharpening. That is if they stock a size that fits your jointer/ planer. ( They don't for my Grizzly's.) Where to get them sharpened is the next problem. We have two excellent sharpening services here in Raleigh. (Raleigh Saw Service, and Ashcrofts) But they both are located on the northeast side of town. Both are a couple blocks off Capital Blvd. That means it is over an hour each way to their places. Klingspor, and probably the new Woodcraft offer sharpening service. Again, I have to drive over and back. With gasoline no longer being free, it makes sense for me to mail my blades out for sharpening. An $8.95 priority mail box will hold about ten 10" saw blades, depending on how you pack them. Ridge Carbide offers free return shipping on five or more blades. Dynamic Saw doesn't, but are a little cheaper on actual sharpening. Forrest costs a lot more, but doesn't do a better job- just buying a name. Either way, I can have freshly sharpened blades in about two weeks. If you don't have an extra set of knives for your jointer/ planer, it would be wise to order a couple sets. I say couple, as the freight is almost the same on two sets. Plus you will always have a fresh set on hand.

[WoodWrangler]

So far I've found that a set of professionally sharpened knives are sharper than a new set (at least it seems that way). I've been using Ridge Carbide and though it costs a couple extra bucks, it's been WELL WORTH IT. The blades are very sharp, the service is reliable, consistent and fairly fast.

[Ray Martin]

Originally Posted by gotojeremy

So far I've found that a set of professionally sharpened knives are sharper than a new set (at least it seems that way). I've been using Ridge Carbide and though it costs a couple extra bucks, it's been WELL WORTH IT. The blades are very sharp, the service is reliable, consistent and fairly fast.

That's something I've always wondered about. Why can't a new, bladed tool be ready to use out of the box? I've never met a chisel or plane that didn't need work before you can use it.

Ray

[NCPete]

I am finding that with four 20" knives, it is often just as economical to buy new as it is to sharpen, even though there is a competent sharpening shop only a few blocks from my old store, until shipping costs are factored in.

[junquecol]

Originally Posted by Ray Martin

That's something I've always wondered about. Why can't a new, bladed tool be ready to use out of the box? I've never met a chisel or plane that didn't need work before you can use it.

Ray

COSTS TOO MUCH, plain and simple. You should see the stares I get in borgs when someone is buying a chisel. I ask if they are going to sharpen it before use. They tell me that they are buying new, because it is sharpe. LOL!

[Nativespec]

I sharpened some 8" knives on a wet grinder. This process took some time. I have seen a new tool for sharpening the knives while still mounted, but I do not know how well it works. You could probably make your own tool with a diamond sharpener or even sandpaper to "tune up" between major sharpenings.

I ran some hickory boards through a planer and jointer recently. The jointer blades handled it well, not as much so for the Dewalt 735. I will probably use the drum sander or hand planes in the future.

I would recommend using a metal detector like the "Wizard" before jointing or planing.

David

[thesource]

Not all steel and carbide is created equally. M-2, M-3, T-1, Etc. You should check the Grade, before chucking the old blades or knives. We have saw blades that are up to 40 years old, that we get retipped and resharpened frequently. The plates are still in great shape, and are superior to most of the new blades we have tried. As far as planer and jointer knives, try honing them if you get a nick. Most the time a small nick can be honed out, at least it's worth a try. Basically you're just blunting the edge a little, which usually works better for harder woods anyway.