Router Table Door Material

hpetty · 12-22-2005, 08:23 PM

Okay I won't confess exactly why I need to use something for the door to my new router table other than the sheet of plexiglass I bought for it. But it has something to do with DL Ames' signature line.

Anyway... before I went out and bought another sheet of plexi I wondered why most every router table I see has a clear door. Do you really need the light down there? I was thinking of using a nice plywood panel instead. Will I regret not having the clear window?

clowman · 12-22-2005, 08:56 PM

Hmm... bury an inch?

I would think it would be an easy way to see if the chips are being sucked up correctly, without opening the door. You could "frame" your newly cut plexiglass, slap it back in, and call it a custom fit.

DaveO · 12-22-2005, 08:58 PM

Clay has the perfect answer for all the questions

I'm left speachless

Dave

McRabbet · 12-22-2005, 10:06 PM

hpetty, My router table has a solid door over the router chamber and it has never bothered me. I do have a small appliance bulb with a switch mounted inside so I can shed some light inside. Clay's suggestion to make a frame for the plexiglass panel is the perfect solution. You may want to consider making it with a rabbet all around the inside and mount the panel with glass clips rather than a groove so you can remove the panel for cleaning or replacement.

Rob

hpetty · 12-22-2005, 10:19 PM

Thanks for the replies. I already had an oak frame cut for the plexiglass. My problem is the plexi still won't work. I guess I should confess the entire story... I was trying to work in the shop before the heater had warmed it up. Shying away from power tools until my hands warmed up I decided to "quickly" cut the plexi panel. We all know the rule about not getting in a hurry. But I carefully measured - once. Scored and snapped off a clean piece of plexi just perfect.

Except one side is an even inch shorter than the other sides.

Wonder how that could have happened?
I can always re-cut the frame out of wider stock, but 1/4 ply is a lot cheaper than oak, so I'm thinking my version of Norm's router table may not have a viewing door

D L Ames · 12-22-2005, 10:23 PM

Hugh, I have a solid door on mine and it causes me no problems. You have to open the door anyway to make any adjustments. Framing the plexiglass is a good suggestion if you still what to use the clear door. I like Rob's idea of adding a light inside the cabinet. I haven't heard that before but I like it.

D L

woodguy1975 · 12-22-2005, 10:23 PM

Just a not on router tables and dust collection. You need to have make up air coming into the cabinet to get good collection. Most plexiglass doors have holes in them to allow air for the DC. If you choose to have a solid panel door make sure you have some makeup air holes in the cabinet or you will stagnate you dust collection.

Thanks,

John

hpetty · 12-23-2005, 03:05 PM

Thanks John. I was planning on putting three 1" holes near the bottom and a fourth as a finger hole to open the hinged door.

Only thing I like completing on the cabinet is the door and plumbing for the dust collection. Then build a fence and complete the top. I'm sitting here waiting for the contact cement to dry before putting the laminate on the top side of the top. I'm beginning to think my old router table worked just fine.... I'm enjoying the process, but I've spent a lot more time (and money) on the router table than I have on a lot of furniture pieces.

Steve D · 12-23-2005, 04:48 PM

Hugh,

Here's another option for your fix. If I understand correctly, you took a free form approach to geometry and deviated from the planned rectangle (PC for screwed up). You can probably save the piece of plex by ripping it back to a rectangle (1" narrower than planned) on your table saw. As unorthodox as it sounds, flip the blade around on your tablesaw before making this cut so the teeth are backwards. This reduces the tendency for the plex to melt as it is being cut. You will now need to make your frame stiles and rails 1/2" wider and cut the plex an inch shorter in the other dimension. If you have a band saw, that would be an even better option than the tablesaw to rip the plex back into shape.

You will want to put holes in whatever you end up going with. Norm's original design didn't have them and he came back and recommended adding the holes. They serve 2 purposes and both relate to airflow. As John pointed out, dust collection will be improved but equally as important is a flow of cool air to keep the router motor from getting too hot. The doors aren't airtight to begin with but you will see a dramatic improvement with the holes.

hpetty · 12-23-2005, 04:58 PM

I think I'm just going to go with a 1/4" plywood panel (with air holes of course). I'm getting low on oak and don't want to waste the existing frame. I can always make a new door out of plexiglass (when I get over being frustrated with the non-square one). I had gotten a great deal on a cut-off piece of plexi from Lowes. Now it really is waste.

Oh well, one of fun aspects of woodworking is figuring out creative solutions to cover up your own screw-ups.

Ozzie-x · 12-23-2005, 06:59 PM

And these cretive solutions are what helps us get good...........

D L Ames · 12-24-2005, 12:59 AM

Originally Posted by Steve D

As unorthodox as it sounds, flip the blade around on your tablesaw before making this cut so the teeth are backwards. This reduces the tendency for the plex to melt as it is being cut.

I have heard this technique works very well for cutting plexi and DAMHIKT, but don't ever try to run your blade in this configuration while attempting to rip some 8/4 wood stock. Even if you do this with a Forrest WWII

it has a tendency to cause really nasty looking burn marks (almost black) all along your cut line, creates a butt load (shop full) of blueish smoke, and causes you to exert an abnormal amount of effort to push the stock through the saw.

D L

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