Router collet extension

Router collet extension · 05-12-2009, 08:53 PM

I'm -very slowly- working on some cutting boards. I want to route some handles into the edges using a box core bit. So I created a jig out of some plywood that allows me to use a guide bushing. Complex stuff, this math thing, figuring out how large to make the opening when the outer diameter of the bushing is X and the bit diameter is Y.

All in all that jig took about two weeks

I ran a test piece, and the recess is the right size, but it's not deep enough. Since the jig is made out of 3/4" plywood, I lost 3/4" in plunging depth. Problem. If it was just 1/16" or so, I'd just raise the bit out of the collect, but we're talking 3/8" here...I'm weird, not stupid.

A quick search revealed something called a router collect extender. Bright light streaming down, angels raising trumpets, a choir sings....the Answer! Although for some reason, everyone seems to want to use these things in conjunction with a router table, not a hand held router. So before I spent money on a tool I may only use twice in my lifetime, I want to make sure it's not going to be zero times in my lifetime. (Not that I'd save the money, but it means I can buy different tool!

)

- Any concerns using a collet extension in a hand held plunge router (DW61

?
- Any concerns using a collect extension in general?
- Anyone have the one from MLCS?

Thanks!

Travis Porter · 05-12-2009, 09:09 PM

Have you thought about coming in from the other side with a flush trim bit?

Joe Scharle · 05-12-2009, 09:22 PM

Collet extenders have a large collet on the other end!
Freud makes some long 2.5" cutter in 1/2" dia. Or you could flip it over and meet in the middle.

Ken Massingale · 05-12-2009, 11:02 PM

Hey Bas,
I've had the extender from MLCS for several years. I tried it once in a router table and it then sat in a drawer till last year, it raised the pucker factor to a level I wouldn't tolerate.
Maybe a year ago one of the mags had an article on bowls made with a hand held router, a bowl bit and an extension.
I bartered for a bowl bit and manned up and tried the MLCS extension. It worked great. Much more stable and less intimidating under the router baseplate than sticking up from a table. The cutting board handles would be much easier on the extension than a 2 1/2" + deep bowl, go for it.

MIKE NOAH · 05-12-2009, 11:30 PM

My thinking is with Joe, wouldn't the new collet just hit guide bushing before you got anymore depth? Not sure what size bushing you are using or it your jig template sets flat on the face of the surface being cut but it sounds like more math and a new jig to me.....or just a longer bit. Now that I have posted a comment on something I don't even understand I think it's time to leave work, head home, and see if there are adult beverages in the fridge.

Bas · 05-13-2009, 12:24 AM

Originally Posted by Joe Scharle

Collet extenders have a large collet on the other end!
Freud makes some long 2.5" cutter in 1/2" dia. Or you could flip it over and meet in the middle.

Sorry, I should have been clearer. I'm not actually cutting through, just making a recess for your fingers to grab the board. Like in the picture below, except I'm not making the recess in the top, but in the sides of the cutting board. I want to make it ~5/8" deep, but because I'm using a guide bushing, the bit only sticks out about 1/4".

Thinking about it some more, 2 1/4" seems awfully long, I wonder if that even fits within the plunge base of my router. Guess I better measure.

Originally Posted by MIKE NOAH

Now that I have posted a comment on something I don't even understand

That's OK, I have no idea what I'm asking

Ken Massingale · 05-13-2009, 07:02 AM

Bas,
Here is a Woodsmith video on the router bowls that shows what you are wanting to do. Just that yours are recessed handles instead of bowls.

Matt Schnurbusch · 05-13-2009, 08:44 AM

Two thoughts,

Set up on the router table with leading and trailing stops, and feather boards as necessary.

Build a router sled that you can clamp to the work piece flush with the edge. Install runners so that the router can't move except in the direction you want it, and again use leading and trailing stops. Something like this:

Bas · 05-13-2009, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by Matt Schnurbusch

Two thoughts,

Set up on the router table with leading and trailing stops, and feather boards as necessary.

Yes, that would work. Thought about it. But I'm not terribly comfortable dropping a workpiece onto a spinning bit, not at this depth.

Originally Posted by Matt Schnurbusch

Build a router sled that you can clamp to the work piece flush with the edge. Install runners so that the router can't move except in the direction you want it, and again use leading and trailing stops. Something like this:

I like that option. More complex to build than using a guide bushing, but no loss of depth. Fantastic diagram too!

Joe Scharle · 05-13-2009, 10:26 AM

Well Bas, you know where a Woodrat is nearby!

Alan in Little Washington · 05-13-2009, 12:36 PM

Originally Posted by Bas

Yes, that would work. Thought about it. But I'm not terribly comfortable dropping a workpiece onto a spinning bit, not at this depth.

You need an AILW motorized router lift in your router table!

jhreed · 05-13-2009, 07:02 PM

re-make your jig out of 1/4" hardboard. this is what most use for jigs and templates. cheaper than 3/4" plywood. i bought a 4'x8' sheet. it may last me forever.

froglips · 05-13-2009, 07:56 PM

Could we get a pic of this uber-jig?

Jim

Bas · 05-14-2009, 12:08 AM

Originally Posted by Joe Scharle

Well Bas, you know where a Woodrat is nearby!

I might take you up on that offer. Only reason I wouldn't want to do that is repeatability...I'll probably want to make more cuttingboards this way. Although I suppose I can just keep bugging you for help

Originally Posted by Alan in Little Washington

You need an AILW motorized router lift in your router table!

I agree Alan. Why don't you bring one to the picnic

Originally Posted by jhreed

re-make your jig out of 1/4" hardboard. this is what most use for jigs and templates. cheaper than 3/4" plywood. i bought a 4'x8' sheet. it may last me forever.

I need the jig to be 3/4" thick because that's the depth of the guide bushing. But the idea is good - I'm sure there are guide bushings that are only 1/2 or maybe even 1/4" in depth. That would solve it.

froglips · 05-14-2009, 08:02 AM

I have seen and read Pat Warner's books/videos, he does cut the guide bushings to length. aka. shortens them with a hacksaw.

Instead, while sitting here thinking without knowing, could you route a dado in the underside of the jig? Such that the whole jig could sit lower?

I'm guessing you made a top plate with a perpendicular fence of sorts.

Jim

Originally Posted by Bas

I need the jig to be 3/4" thick because that's the depth of the guide bushing. But the idea is good - I'm sure there are guide bushings that are only 1/2 or maybe even 1/4" in depth. That would solve it.