Ridgid Jointer

Ridgid Jointer · 06-13-2008, 12:50 PM

Well, I am getting close to my next tool purchase (6" jointer).

I was looking at the Ridgid JP0610 and read somewhere that it has a minimum 3/4" thickness (due to the blade guard).

For those of you that own this machine, has this ever been a problem for your? How often do you need to face joint material thinner than 3/4"?

Do other 6" jointers in this price range have similar restrictions? Any recommendations for other jointers in this price range?

Thanks in advance!

Dave

GregSmith · 06-13-2008, 01:14 PM

Dave,

I have this jointer and forgot that the minimum thickness was 3/4". It has never been an issue with me, but I usually use it to face joint thicker stock on the way to the planer anyway - not an issue for edge jointing.

See Tom's review (and the jointer I later bought from him) on his site.

This jointer has worked fine for me and I recently replaced the knives (after a broken drywall screw snuck through on a piece of free Walnut). The only real headache was finding a mobile base - ended up using the Rockler base kit.

Greg

Bas · 06-13-2008, 02:16 PM

I have the Grizzly 6" jointer (G0452). It has similar limitations.

If the stock is too thin, it won't move the blade guard out of the way. This is actually quite a stupid design, because stock that's just thick enough might get trapped this way, especially if it starts out being thick enough but repeated passes over the jointer make it too thin. To joint thinner stock, you can remove the blade guard of course. That's not very safe. Many people have made their own fixed guards using Lexan.

The main reason for not jointing thin stock is the danger of it breaking apart or getting caught somewhere and kicking back. I don't think there is anything dangerous in jointing a 4" wide 1/2" thick 3' long board of poplar. But I would not want to joint an 1" wide 1/4" thick 8' long board of Balsa. That's asking for trouble. Get a drum sander if you need to work with a lot of thin stock.

The Grizzly is comparable to the Ridgid. JET also makes a good 6" jointer. Lowe's has the 6" Delta on sale right now, in some places as low as $92 (normally ~$360)! Add a $10 off coupon and you've got a real steal. The Delta has an open stand, not an enclosed base, so dust collection isn't stellar. They appear on Craig's List fairly regularly as well. The main reason I got the G0452 is because of the built-in mobile base.

cptully · 06-13-2008, 03:32 PM

To compensate for poor designs come off an engineers desk and never get tested by said engineer

(speaking here as a proud graduate from the College of Engineering at NCSU!)...

I would suggest a little time with tin snips, a drill and a tap:

Get some aluminum roof flashing and cut a strip the length of the opening curve on the blade guard, and wide enough to just clear the blades. Next drill and tap a few holes for say 6-32 screws in the edge of the bald guard. Punch matching holes in the flashing strip and screw it in place.

The benefits of this idea:
1) Aluminum flashing is thin enough and soft enough that it should not injure your blades if they come in contact with each other.
2) This strip is replaceable if it ever get damaged.
3) Less chance of a jam.

All of that said I will LOUDLY agree that a drum sander is the better choice for thin or narrow stock.

Chris Tully

erasmussen · 06-13-2008, 04:40 PM

I got the ridgid its never been a problem for me

DaveO · 06-13-2008, 05:51 PM

I have it and have jointed stock thinner than ¾", maybe down to ½". I use push blocks and allow the front push block to push the fence open and then hand over hand the stock the rest of the way through. Not the best method but it works for the very few times I have needed to work that thin of stock.
Chris's solution would be smarter if you are going to joint thinner stock often.

Dave

Shayne · 06-13-2008, 09:43 PM

Ditto to what Dave said. The few times I've had ~1/2 stock I just used the push blocks. As long as you expect the guard not to move until you make contact with push blocks, it's not a big deal. The first time I did it, I didn't realize this would happen so it was a little bit of surprise as I was pushing the stock threw

TracyP · 06-13-2008, 09:57 PM

I have the Ridgid also and so far it has been a good jointer. I built a plywood base for it and put casters on it. It is actually very solid even without the casters locked. It was cheaper than purchasing a good mobile base.

davejones · 06-14-2008, 10:20 AM

Thanks for all the info.

I had given up on the Delta JT360 since I hadn't seen one in either of my local Lowe's stores for quite some time. After I read Bas' thread yesterday and the other thread about finding one for $92, I started calling darn near every Lowe's in NC. Finally found one in Pittsboro for $202, which I will be picking up later today!!! Not the $92 dollar steal that someone else got, but still a great deal!

I will have to check out the Delta's blade guard and see whether I will need to modify it or not. I probaly won't be using thin stock all that often anyways, so the push block trick may work just fine.

Pics and formal gloat to come....