OEM Blades Worth Sharpening?

[rick7938]

Like most people, I suppose, I have a good selection of dull 10" saw blades that came with my equipment hanging on the wall. All of them have carbide teeth although very thin. I am wondering if they are worth having sharpened or if it is better to invest the sharpening money in higher quality blades. These are all Delta and B&D from 32-tooth rip blades to 60-tooth miter saw blades.

Any input will be appreciated.

[froglips]

Word on the "street" is carbide sharpening is too hard for a home shop.

Hooey I say. But, I enjoy the challenges it presents. I do like to touch up my blades with a x-fine diamond hone.

One way to judge a blade worth paying for reshapening is the way the carbide teeth are seated in the tooth.

A good (not as bad) blade has the carbide welded to the tooth in a little pocket. Sort of like a letter J at the end of the steel.

Cheaper blades have the tooth welded to a flat steel tooth.

Jim

[Sweetgum]

1200 grit sandpaper and and hour of time listening to the radio/watching the kids play in the backyard

[tom hintz]

I had one of my first tablesaw blades (included with the saw) resharpened and it did not last any longer than when new, which meant it dulled very quickly. Unless they include a very good blade, I'd save the sharpening money and use that against a better blade that will stay sharp longer initially and then be able to be sharpened a few times.
Personally, I don't know of a good sharpneing system you can use accurately for tablesaw blades in the home shop. The angles are critical to the performance so I generally send them back to the manufacturer to be done right.

[junquecol]

Sometimes, new is cheaper. Right now Lowes is running Delta version of the 7657 blade for $39.99, less 10% - $35.99. Amazon is running the DeWalt 7640 for $29.59, with a 20% discount and free shipping($23.67). Code for discount is 20offmay. Both are quality blades. My rule is, if it has yellow around the outside, it is trash!

[jglord]

I've learned a small amount of resin on the side of the teeth on a saw blade will dramatically lower the blades ability to cut and will also increase burning in cut.
The reason for this is the teeth are slightly angled from the body to the tip. Over time, resin builds-up in these angles effectively squaring up the tooth. When the tooth passes through the wood, the flattened side rubs through the wood instead of cleanly cutting.
A cleaned blade often causes a great improvement. I use one of the commercial blade and bit cleaners and a green scrub pad. After letting the blade soak for a minute, a few strokes with the scrub pad removes all build-up.

Doesn't always work and sometimes blades just get dull, but, IMHO, it worth a try and cheeper than a new blade.

[Robert Arrowood]

Just got my wwer journal the other day. They have a nice tip for cleaning a saw blade.Better put credit where credit is due. Thank to Mike Fedor from Canton,Ohio. Mix a concentrated amount of laundry detergent with water in a shallow pan. Let soak for half an hour. Scrub with stiff brush. They said to spray with rust-inhibiter but you could put it in the oven and set high heat to dry.

[junquecol]

Oven only has to be 213 degrees F to boil off all moisture. Water boils at 212 here locally. A little bit less up in the Alaska Range.