Just got a used dw788

Just got a used dw788 · 07-30-2009, 03:14 PM

I started hunting on CL for a good deal on a table saw to get into woodworking. A few months later I've missed out on a couple, and ended up with deals on a Compound Miter Saw and now a SS instead. Oh well.

Anyway, the owner claimed it was never used, just sat in a garage and then storage after a move. From what I can tell its an older one, US made, probably 1997. The top is pretty rusty unfortunately, so that will take a lot of cleaning. Hopefully I can salvage it. Came with the stand as well. Haven't done any testing other than flipping the switch.

I'll post pictures soon. Anyone have advice for cleaning off 10 years of rust? They'd tried steel wool and that had smoothed it out but hadn't removed it all. I was thinking mineral oil and a scothbrite pad, but this might need more than that. This being my first SS, I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions.

Update: turns out it was a Type 1, even better

timf67 · 07-30-2009, 03:23 PM

I saw that one and had the guy send me pics. If I had the room in my shop I would have gone for it despite the heavy rust build up. There are some commercial chemical rust removers out there you might try.

Charlottend · 07-30-2009, 04:09 PM

Hmm, just realized I should have posted this in the Power Tool section. Could someone move it there if that's the right area? Thanks.

WoodWrangler · 07-30-2009, 04:20 PM

RustFree (a Boeshield product) available at Woodcraft works really well. It also protects it in the future somewhat. Heavy rust may require a couple applications/scrubbings.

sapwood · 07-30-2009, 04:55 PM

Thread has been moved.

Several folks have used a brass wire cup brush fitted to angle grinder to speed up rust removal. I have used a wire brush on my bench grinder to clean rust from small tools.

Here's an example of 3" crimped wire cup brush.

Looking forward to hearing about your progress

Roger

Sully · 07-30-2009, 05:15 PM

Before doing anything else, take a little bit of oil (3-n-1, WD40, motor oil --it doesn't really matter) and a razor blade to the surface. You could use a paint scraper razor holder or even just a utility knife blade held in a pair of vise grips. You can remove ALOT of the rust with that simple setup. Just come in at a low angle of attack. Your goal is to shear the rust off the surface; you don't want to try to scrape it off (IOW, do not hold the blade 90 to the surface).

After that take a brass bristle brush to the surface and then follow up with some WD40 and steel wool. That should get everything off to the point of having a nice usable surface. If you really want to polish it, which IMHO is overkill, you'll need to invest a lot more time.

Finish off with wax or some other topcoat to protect the surface.

$0.02
Jay

Charlottend · 07-30-2009, 05:30 PM

Thanks for the advice everyone. Any thoughts about the mouse mounted abrasive pad method mentioned here - http://www.newwoodworker.com/clncstirn.html

That was the route I was going to go before I asked here.

WoodWrangler · 07-30-2009, 05:39 PM

I've done the sanding thing. It'll work. Personally, I'd still get RustFree. It is worth every penny (runs about $10 a bottle). It will make the removal job easy, and it does something with the metal that keeps it protected. I still wax over it, but when the wax wears it's nice to know it has additional protection. I've used it on very machine I have practically -- even if they aren't rust yet. I also would HIGHLY recommend the Boeshielf T9 product over any of the competition (no, they didn't pay me anything ... just a happy customer!). It will help protect the surface too.

boxxmaker · 07-30-2009, 10:02 PM

I had an OLD delta given to me last yr from a friend who had lost her husband and it WAS BAD.I spread a coat of naval jelly on it an worked it in a bit with a wire brush an let it set over night,then after cleaning the gunk off it,I took my grinder with a 36 grit wheel and cleaned off the rest,then waxed it up.Still pitted like **** but that sucker cuts fantastic.

Charlottend · 07-31-2009, 02:05 PM

I'll post some before pictures this weekend. Need to make a trip to pick up a few of the options mentioned here.

Charlottend · 08-03-2009, 01:11 PM

Here are a couple of before pictures. I paid less than $100, so hopefully I can get some good use out of it

View image in gallery

CarvedTones · 08-03-2009, 01:26 PM

Less than $100?!?!

You stole that thing!

Great score!

ScottM · 08-03-2009, 03:36 PM

WOW a Type 1 for under $100.00. You don't know what you have there. Some folks would pay full retail to get their hands on a Type 1. You

SCORED!!!!

Charlottend · 08-03-2009, 04:03 PM

You're right, I probably don't. I knew the Type 1 was Canadian made, and I knew I got a good deal, I just didn't know how good. They came down quite a bit from their $200 asking price. To be honest I was a little hesitant since it looked pretty rusty and I couldn't really test it (didn't have a blade). I'm glad I jumped on it after hearing your comments.

As far as cleaning, would you recommend taking off the blade holders on the top and bottom arm to get a better clean behind them? I didn't know how sensitive those were to alignment so I didn't mess with them.

Also, the peg at the back where the table rests had a bit of play in it after I took the table off. Is there any reason not to straighten that up and tighten it? The manual didn't mention anything about it since it should have been pre-assembled.

Still not sure how the table will look when I'm done cleaning it. Here it is before and after a partial cleaning. I used everything you guys recommended (except for the RustFree, which I couldn't find, didn't make it to Woodcraft). The naval jelly took 3 coats so far and it seemed to work the best by far. You can see what WD40 and a scotchbrite sander did in the first picture. I've got Johnson's paste wax to seal it when I'm done.

View image in gallery

ScottM · 08-03-2009, 04:29 PM

Just clean up the table. That is cast iron. You do not need to it is mirror smooth just so work will slide over the surface. The blade holders are aluminum and should not be an issue. Beside taking them off might be an issue whenyou realign. If you need any more info check this site.

http://www.scrollsaws.com/