Jointer Opinions

[KurtG]

Considering getting a jointer and looking at these two Grizzley's.

6" parallelogram - $550 (includes shipping)
8" (non-parallelogram) - $740 (including shipping)

I'm leaning towards the 6" since it fits the budget better, but considering the 8" because ....it's bigger .

I welcome any opinions. Also, are parallelgram beds worth the extra $'s?

Kurt

[Alan in Little Washington]

Get the 8". If you buy a 6" you'll be trading up in less than two years! Wide is never wide enough.

[JimmyC]

Kurt,

I like wedge jointers (handwheels) because I'm used to them so that choice is a little biased. But honestly, I have a 6" grizzly, and it does everything that I need for now, but if I could do it all over I would buy the 8" ( eventually I will).

The main differences, besides price, are size ( the 8" is a much larger machine) and power ( 110 volt vs 220 volt). If I were you and I had the room. the power, and the money I'd buy the 8" jointer.

This is just my opinion, and I'm sure that you will enjoy whichever you choose.

Good Luck,

Jimmy

[walnutjerry]

Go for the 8"--------------------------Jerry

[McRabbet]

Kurt,

I must agree with Jerry and Alan that wider is better, but there is another factor in comparing these two jointer's and that is bed length. The G0604 6" has a 55-1/2" bed, while the 8" G0586 has a 75' long bed. You will achieve vastly better results on the longer bed. I have a 6" Grizzly and will upgrade to an 8" or 10" at the next chance I can budget funds for one. The bed on my 6" unit has really limited my jointing capability. By the way, if you do decide that the parallelogram mechanism is better (mine is a wedge style with hand wheels), then there is the model G0490 which has a 76" bed and parallelogram adjustments for just $795.

Hope this helps...

[NCPete]

Originally Posted by McRabbet

The G0604 6" has a 55-1/2" bed, while the 8" G0586 has a 75' long bed. ...

WOW! a 75 foot long bed! sign me up for one of those!

in all seriousness, the longer the bed, and the wider the bed, the happier you will be. Imagine for a moment sleeping on your todler's bed, instead of your regular full, queen, or kingsize mattress....

[John Reeves]

I have a 6' Rigid that has been a great start for me. I bought it used, did not overpay and have learned a lot. The advice that Rob gives is very good but sometimes us hard headed people have to do it the hard way.

I will sell my Rigid and move up probably to the nice Grizzly for a few reasons. The bed, the parallelogram design but also the overall workmanship that the higher caliber of manufactures provide.

But as I said an inexpensive machine is a good learning tool for a short time. I have learned how to make perfect wedges on my Rigid!

Good luck.

[scsmith42]

Kurt, there has been a number of instances where I regretted not buying a larger machine. There have been few instances where I regretted buying one too large...

My 2 cents - buy the larger machine. Longer bed, more HP, and wider all equal a more useful and productive tool.

Scott

[Jonz]

Size matters. 8" if there is any way you can swing it, you won't regret it.

[nelsone]

I got the 6" Ridgid. Does what I need and bought it from a fellow NWWW'er. I would very much like having a wider, longer machine, but that will have to wait for a wider, longer sop! I prefer the wedge type with the handwheels. I feel I can make fractional adjustments easier, however I've never really used a parallelogram type to give a true opinion.

[cpowell]

Get the 8 inch.

I have the non-parallelogram style and it joints just fine. I have checked out a fellow NCWWer's (Mshel) parallelogram jointer and was just really impressed with it. Adjustments are silky smooth. I believe I would buy the parallel design if the price isn't prohibitive.

If the price for the parallelogram is beyond what you can spend I believe you'll be happy with the standard jointer. I know that I am.


Chuck

[junquecol]

I always question why 8", instead of 6". If the jointer has a rabbeting ledge ( most do) You can joint a board as wide as 9". You will have to remove the gaurd! Face joint board in regular manner. This will leave an area that isn't face jointed. Make a sled out of plywood, or hardboard that is as wide as your jointer. Double stick tape it to area that was face jointed. Run sled and board thru planer. When second face is parrallel to first, turn board over and remove sled. Run this face thru planer to remove ledge. Seldom anymore do you find boards wider than 6-7", unless Jeff or Kyle cut them.

[jeff...]

Why not a 12" ?

[Travis Porter]

I started with a Jet JJ6 with wheels, and have upgraded to a DJ20 with handles. Unfortunately, I now long for a 16 or 20", but that will have to wait.

Bigger is better, but that goes without saying. I have seen comments that the handles are harder to adjust than the wheels, but from my personal experience, I do not find that to be the case and would not let that be a limiting factor in my decision.

[Nativespec]

How about 16"?