Installing Side Extension Wings on tablesaw

Installing Side Extension Wings on TS · 10-13-2006, 12:00 PM

How do you get these things level with the main table and how much variance is acceptable? I started by inserting the bolts and snugging them up, then tapping the wing with a rubber mallet on the top and bottom until it felt like it was the same level as the table. I checked for variations in table height by running my fingertips back and forth over the seam and tightened the bolts when it felt level. I can still feel that a seam is there so I'm wondering if I'm doing this incorrectly.

I don't have a straightedge but is there a way to measure it using a dial guage and magnetic base (one of those articulating arm bases)? Or am I just supposed to get it as close as I can using the "run your hand over the seam method"?

Thanks.

chris99z71 · 10-13-2006, 12:48 PM

I've never heard of a method for leveling extension wings using a dial indicator...I guess that it wouldn't be that hard though...
Set the base with the arm extended and zero it with everything on the table top, including the tip for the indicator. Then rotate the arm to extend over the wing with the tip on the far edge of the wing - without changing the arm angles.
I think most just do it with a reasonable straight edge. I used a 4' sheetrock square that I've got. A descent 4' level would probably work too. I don't think it really requires a whole lot of precision. Just flat enough that it doesn't change that angle between the piece that you're cutting and the blade.
To level it, put pieces of masking tape either along the top or bottom edge the the mating surface between the wing and table and then tighten it up. Sort of a trial and error routine.
Hope this helps.

SteveColes · 10-13-2006, 01:46 PM

I've got two 72" levels that I use for that kind of thing. Both levels have a magnetic side.Then I use them front and back of the table as long straight edges. If you'd like to borrow them, just PM me.

BTW, I've found that even when the edges are flush to the main table, the machining isn't good enough that the outer edge isn't level. It tends to sag at the ends. Then you have to use shims to get the whole thing level.

chris99z71 · 10-13-2006, 03:33 PM

What do you use as shims, Steve? Just curious.

SteveColes · 10-13-2006, 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by chris99z71

What do you use as shims, Steve? Just curious.

Anything will work. The last time I used some thin washers that just happened to work.

woodworker2000 · 10-13-2006, 06:05 PM

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I've got some work to do to get these things right but I know if I don't get them to a point where I feel like its done right, it will bug me until I take everything apart and start over. Much easier to do it the right way before I put the fence rails on.

As far as shims, I've heard of cutting them from an aluminum beverage can....after you empty the contents of course....sometimes you have to empty three or four of them before you get it right......

Gofor · 10-13-2006, 07:42 PM

Chris, I clamped a board to the table top (over hanging the edge) at the front and back, and then clamped the extension to the bottom of the board. This flushed up the edges. I had no droop on the outer ends (lucky, I guess). I had the outer edge of the extension braced up with a board on a sawhorse to help support the weight while I aligned it and got the bolts hand tight, then tightened the clamps. Smooth hardwood or metal works best to clamp to to get a perfect fit.
HTHs

Go

junquecol · 10-14-2006, 10:26 PM

Originally Posted by woodworker2000

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I've got some work to do to get these things right but I know if I don't get them to a point where I feel like its done right, it will bug me until I take everything apart and start over. Much easier to do it the right way before I put the fence rails on.

As far as shims, I've heard of cutting them from an aluminum beverage can....after you empty the contents of course....sometimes you have to empty three or four of them before you get it right......

I suggest that you get a copy of John White's book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines". He shows how to do this very operation. It is one of the best books on setting up shop machines. Costs less than $20 and money well spent. John is the manager of FWW's shop.