CMS Blade Problem

[davejones]

I'm trying to cut some 3-1/2" wide strips of 3/4" birch ply on my Compound Miter Saw, but it seems to want to burn through the wood rather than cut it.

The blade is the cheapo original that came with the saw, but it does say it is a plywood blade and has not seen much wood in its lifetime. I thought it was just due to some buildup on the blade, but I cleaned it and the burning did not improve at all. Also, the motor bogs down while cutting burning through the wood.

Is it just time for a new blade? Would sharpening be likely to correct this? Any experience you all can share would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance!

[Ray Martin]

Dave,

I guess the first thing that I'd check would be the blade. Is it sharp and is it clean? Is the blade flat? does it have a bent tooth? Does it appear to have a wobble to it when it runs? The problem could also be the wood. If the motor is bogging down in 3/4" ply, check the wood to see if it is twisted, warped, bent, curved, etc. If the wood has any movement to it while you are cutting, that could bind the blade too.

What kind of a saw are you using? Might also be time for a tune up.

Ray

[davejones]

Thanks for the quick reply Ray. The blade doesn't seem to wobble, and the wood doesn't seem to be the problem either. The burning starts as soon as the blade touches the wood (no kerf to close up yet).

I'm not really sure how sharp the blade is. It hasn't been used in a while and had some buildup on it, which I tried to clean. I may try to go over it again and see if that helps.

The saw is a Ryobi Compound Miter Saw. Not an expensive saw, or overly powerful, but I would expect it to cut better than it is.

[Ray Martin]

Dave,

OK... back to the blade. Make sure the teeth are clean of any pitch, gum, peanut butter, etc. Is this an all steel blade? If it is a carbide blade, the carbide is brazed on to the tips of the teeth. They should stick out to the side of the blade body just a bit... maybe a 1/32". If the blade is perfectly flat (teeth not set / no carbide), then the sides of the teeth are rubbing on the sides of your cut and heat builds up really quick. If this is the case, just replace the blade. A good blade (sharp and clean) will leave a very smooth cut and should generally be burn free. (Some woods just burn rally easily.)

Ray

[JimmyC]

One other question, and I'm not trying to be funny, is the blade installed backwards ? You wouldn't be the first person here to install a blade backwards DAMHIKT.

Also if it is correctly installed, is it a carbide blade, if not , just replace it.

Good luck,
Jimmy

[toolferone]

For plywood I would use a 80 tooth carbide blade. I feel pretty sure the blade is the problem.

[davejones]

I tried cutting a 2x4 and it went right through it, so the blade is installed the right way. It is all steel, no carbide.

I was able to get by today using the table saw (oops! gave away my gloat before I had a chance to post it), but I think the next time I need the Compound Miter Saw I will be buying a new blade.

Thanks for your input.

[gator]

Push come to shove, you could use your table saw blade on the Compound Miter Saw. It won't have the negative hook angle preferred for a Compound Miter Saw but should work well enough to cut 3/4" material.

George

[Trent Mason]

The blade that came with my bandsaw had me thinking I needed a new bandsaw. It wouldn't even resaw a 2x4". Then I bought a new (much better) blade and was resawing 4x4's of brazilian cherry all day yesterday with no problems at all. I would just buy a new better blade. Good luck!

Trent

[Kicbak]

Def. get a new blade. I used the one that come on my Bosch and they are total crap. It was burning 1x2 oak then I switched over to the infinity tools Compound Miter Saw blade and it was like having a totally new saw with a ton more power. I kept the old blade and used it to cut laminate flooring.

Wes