Bandsaw extension tables?

Bandsaw extension tables? · 01-19-2009, 09:50 PM

I expect the primary uses for my new bandsaw will be resawing and cross-cutting to length. In either case, it seems like it would be handy to have significantly longer tables (front, back and side). Due to my space constraints, they would need to fold down when not in use. I flipped through all of the bandsaw jigs in my ShopNotes collection and found nothing of the sort.

Anyone ever heard of such a thing?

DaveO · 01-19-2009, 10:00 PM

I use roller stands when ripping or re-sawing long length stock on my bandsaw. I personally wouldn't turn to my bandsaw for precision cross-cuts.
I would suspect that you could make folding extension tables for the bandsaw the same way you would make them for a tablesaw. A narrow fixed piece attached to the table with the longer table hinged to it. Fold up legs that would drop into place as the tables were unfolded.

Dave

Travis Porter · 01-20-2009, 09:47 AM

I made a set with fold out legs that I clamped on to my big bandsaw. Nothing special. I just made a U out of some plywood the length that I wanted. Reason I made a U was to hold the plywood straight with right angles. At the far end, I put another piece of plywood on it that acted as a "pivoting" leg so when I took this assembly off I could fold up the leg, and finally, on the edge closest to the bandsaw I put just screwed a piece of plywood to give me a place to clamp/bolt the thing to the table.

All in all, it turned out pretty well. The plywood I used was some of the special wavy wood

Home Depot and Lowes carries so it had a few issues. Getting it lined up correctly so that it didn't interfere with the rip fence was not easy, and it will have to be modified depending on your type of fence and bandsaw, but not too bad.

Lets see.... Any regrets.... Not really. It worked, and I still have them. I was using the set up to resaw 8 foot long pine two by fours and it worked well. I would make a couple of improvements. USE GOOD PLYWOOD!!!! Good jigs need good quality materials. I would also probably put a lag screw in the bottom of the legs to act as an adjuster so I could get the table level.

junquecol · 01-20-2009, 10:25 PM

A couple (?) years back, John White did an article on "pimping out" a band saw. He built a stand, and best I can remember, he added wings to stand. Article was in FWW. Maybe I can find it. If someone has FWW on CD, they could look it up fast.

PeteQuad · 01-21-2009, 12:39 AM

Here's the article:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...F.aspx?id=2810

Pretty cool shopmade base at the end.

merrill77 · 01-26-2009, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by DaveO

I personally wouldn't turn to my bandsaw for precision cross-cuts.

Hey Dave (or anyone else) - can you elaborate on this?

Is this due to the small work surface? Blade drift? Blade marks on the cut surface?

DaveO · 01-26-2009, 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by merrill77

Hey Dave (or anyone else) - can you elaborate on this?

Is this due to the small work surface? Blade drift? Blade marks on the cut surface?

Yes to all of the above. And I have a tablesaw and Compound Miter Saw that will do the job much better. I would guess with proper, highly meticulous tuning and an awesome blade you could get your bandsaw to cut as cleanly as a tablesaw or Compound Miter Saw. But I have never seen a cut that rivals them...close but there is still tooth marks.

Dave

Dave

Gotcha6 · 01-26-2009, 10:39 PM

IIRC a few years back Dave Marks did a project where he cut tenons on a bandsaw using a back stop on the blade. Other than that one time I've never seen anyone use one for a clean cross cut. DaveO is right. To get a fine tooth cut you have to have a thin blade and that amplifies drift, and a thicker blade will have a coarse tooth count for a poor cut. It's a lose - lose proposition - but could be tried as a last resort.