Santa Claus came to my house!

[Travis Porter]

I got a oouple of new toyls from Santa Claus (aka LOML). Fortunately, I printed pics and items of what I wanted.

Lie Nielsen dovetail saw and a hammer. When I cut it and it doesn't fit, I make it fit!

[mburke911]

Travis,
Merry Christmas! Very nice.



Mark

[4yanks]

Congrats. I've always found that a dovetail saw and deadblow mallet go together like bees and honey.

[Jim Murphy]

I want to hear that the $$$$ saw makes you such a masterful dovetailer that you don't need that DB hammer.


I lust for one, but will wait to hear from you if it turns a rookie into Frank Klausz.

[LeftyTom]

Nice score Travis!

[Ray Martin]

Travis,

Looks like you had a very nice Christmas. I"ve heard that those saws are really fantastic. Now, you have to make something with dovetails (and bang it together) and post a photo.

Ray

[cpowell]

Man, nice looking DT saw. I thought your DTs looked pretty good already. It'd be nice to see some DTs cut with the new saw - close-ups of course.

Ley us know what you think of the saw after you've driven it a while.

Oh, I guess a You Suck is in order here. That is a very nice toy.


Chuck

[DavidF]

So we need a "dovetail cut off" eh Travis? You with the new LN and me with my new $23 Crown!!! At least I'll have an excuse

[Travis Porter]

LOL - Definitely. It is about time I came to see your shop anyway. I have been playing around with it, and it definitely cuts agressively. Made one 5 minute dovetail out of pine and it fit pretty good. I seem to be able to cut a straighter line with it than the japanese saw I was using.

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

LOL - Definitely. It is about time I came to see your shop anyway. I have been playing around with it, and it definitely cuts agressively. Made one 5 minute dovetail out of pine and it fit pretty good. I seem to be able to cut a straighter line with it than the japanese saw I was using.

You are welcome to visit anytime! I have cut all the Dovetails for the top two smaller drawers on the cabinets and they weren't too bad - the Crown saw is as good as I am anyway Just layed out and marked the other 50 I need to do on the two lower drawers!!!!

[Henry W]

Travis or others:

Have you ever tried a Gent's saw to cut dovetails? Santa just brought me a gent's saw (pictured below) and I was hoping to use it to learn dovetails. Lee Valley lists this under dovetail saws. It is obvious that the grip is substantially different than a classic Western saw, so I am wondering if anyone uses a saw with this type of grip to cut dovetails. It seems closer to a Japanese saw (I haven't used that either). Think this will work for me?

Henry

Lee Valley's website picture

Classic Gent's Saw

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by Henry W

Travis or others:

Have you ever tried a Gent's saw to cut dovetails? Santa just brought me a gent's saw (pictured below) and I was hoping to use it to learn dovetails. Lee Valley lists this under dovetail saws. It is obvious that the grip is substantially different than a classic Western saw, so I am wondering if anyone uses a saw with this type of grip to cut dovetails. It seems closer to a Japanese saw (I haven't used that either). Think this will work for me?

Henry

Lee Valley's website picture

Classic Gent's Saw

Hi Henry,

This is the pattern I use and the grip really is just a personal preference. The real key is the tooth count and the profile. Often these style saws have cross cut teeth profile by default, because of the "normal" use. You may need to ask specifically if the teeth are set for a "Rip" profile as this is what is required for a true Dovetail saw. The Crown one offered by Highland Hardware specifically states that it is a "rip" tooth profile. Look for a tooth count in the 14 - 19 tpi range. The thinner the stock the more teeth per inch you need. The Crown came out as best saw in this configuation in a Fine woodworking test and I bought the saw on the strength of that article and so far it looks fine for a $23 saw.

[Travis Porter]

I a style like that, but it is a true POS and can barely cut hot butter. Still, is it harder to keep it "balanced"/lined up straight? Part of the reason I went with the L-N was the handle. I figured it would be easier for me to get it started straight.

[Gofor]

Travis: Congrats on the Lie- Nielson!! Guess I'll have to be gooder this year to get Santa to bring me tools like that!!

Henry:
I have an 8" Gent's saw made by E Garlick and Son's - Lynx Brand (20 TPI rip profile) I bought at Woodcraft ($19) that looks very similar to the one you pictured, and am very pleased with it as bought. It works well with little tearout. Although it cuts a thin kerf, i have found it stiff enough to cut white oak and walnut (1/2 to 3/4" thick). Let the saw do the cutting and don't put a lot of downward pressure on it and don't put a gorilla grip on the handle. I grip it with my thumb and middle finger and use the other fingers to steady it. For heavier stuff I use a backsaw or my 8" Crown traditional handle dovetail saw (avail at Klingspors).
Altho the Lynx and the Crown are both 20 TPI, the Crown has a thicker blade, wider kerf and is harder to start. It also was not as sharp as the Lynx as it came from the store. (which reminds me I need to buy a triangular jeweler's file to sharpen it as a 6" fine taper file is too big). Both will be dulled after a while if used on oak. I don't know if the Lee Valley has harder steel or not.
One trick I use to keep the saw cutting straight is to start it with an upward cut from the side facing me. (easier to start going with the wood grain). I then rock it down onto the line across the thickness of the board (either straight across for tails or angled for the pins). As I do this, I take note of the reflection of the horizontal line of the board's edge in the side of the saw. As long as the reflection and actual board's edge appear as a straight line, you will be cutting perpendicular to the end of the board.
Bottom line, I think the Lynx saw would be a relatively inexpensive buy if you want to try that design.
JMTCW
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