Plane Ol' Rust

Plane Ol' Rust · 10-02-2009, 11:34 PM

I just can't win ... everytime I touch my hand planes, especially the block plane, it starts to get little rust spots all over the place. I've covered it with T9, which does the trick on cast iron but it doesn't last nearly as long. It must be the moisture and acids mix in my hands that just break it down. I suppose I can wax it everytime I use it, but is that normal? What do you do?

Sealeveler · 10-02-2009, 11:44 PM

I use hydraulic oil and keep them in a cabinet with a light in it.Tony

froglips · 10-02-2009, 11:56 PM

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02blues · 10-03-2009, 12:36 AM

Bummer. I keep mine in an open wooden wine box and no trouble so far. They need a better home.
If all goes south there is always the SPUD bath the Mr. Froglips references (thx again BTW).

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nelsone · 10-03-2009, 07:58 AM

I don't think the planes like you and they are doing this for spite. I may be able to rehab them for you but it could take a looooooong time. I'll give them back after they have learned not to rust when you touch them!

Seriously, I just coat mine with paste wax every now and then. Don't seem to have too much problem. Every once in a while I notice a little surface rust and clean that off and re-wax.

Tarhead · 10-03-2009, 09:00 AM

I'm using these:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...55&cat=1,43326
Work like magic.

froglips · 10-03-2009, 09:44 AM

Ok, I'll be serious now

Promise.

A wipe down after every session is a good idea. Camellia oil is one very common, albeit pricey wipe oil for planes (and other metal tools).

I'm a fan of the Chris Schawrz Woobie approach. I keep a rag in a sealed jar with some sort of light oil. Marvel Mystery Oil, WD40, ATF etc. I wipe down a metal tool after use. Then store the tool in a sock or box or wrap in a towel. Something to keep it protected.

Or a WD40 aerosol spray is good too.

If you leave a tool out in the open, dust and moisture will settle on the tool, rusting it.

I don't think wax offers very good moisture protection for planes. I view it more for sole lubrication during use.

You may wish to apply a few coats of shellac to the parts of the plane. Other than the sole, this would help protect it from your hands.

But, a wipe/spray down is still advisable.

I didn't mention Potato Water at all!

Jim

fergy · 10-03-2009, 09:53 AM

Maybe you need to wear surgical gloves and quit sweating on everything.

Mike Davis · 10-03-2009, 10:13 AM

Do you boil the potatoes in the water or just throw a few raw cut pieces in there?

froglips · 10-03-2009, 10:16 AM

Just slice them up raw. Potato Water is for heavy duty rust removal as opposed to Jeremy's biological issues

Jim

cpowell · 10-03-2009, 12:39 PM

I believe the problem is the storage location. I don't have a problem with rust in my shop. So...I'd recommend you bring ALL of your hand planes (and chisels, spokeshaves, scrapers,...) over to my shop for storage. I'll try to work them out occasionally so they don't get too bored.

(I wipe mine with Johnson's paste wax every now and then. only takes a few seconds. a light machine oil should do the same thing.)

Chuck

Gofor · 10-03-2009, 03:38 PM

I rag-apply a thin coat of penetrol (the flow control additive used for oil based paint found at Lowe's by the airless spray equipment). It lasts quite a while. I also wax over it after it dries (takes about 6 hours to get hard) and just use wax alone on the soles. I also use this on my steel rulers, squares, etc, as well as the table saw. Lasts much longer than the wax alone.

I have the same problem of having very salty sweat, so everything it touches rusts quickly. I have to redo my plane sides (especially the block plane) after a couple of days (cummulative) of hard use during the warmer months.

I would imagine that rattle-can lacquer or a couple coats of shellac would also work, but have not tried it. My Dad used BLO, but this will build up into a dark (almost black) coating over time, and takes forever to dry.

Go

Andrew A · 10-03-2009, 09:39 PM

I generally keep mine wiped down with Camellia Oil from the wicked container shown below...

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...&dept_id=13099

a little bit goes a long way..a

WoodWrangler · 10-04-2009, 10:29 AM

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions! Looks like I know what I need...

Bas · 10-04-2009, 10:42 AM

One more suggestion, well more of an idea really. If you suspect it's whatever is on your hands, is there something you could apply that would reduce the transfer? A simple hand cream, or maybe some vaseline, or petroleum jelly etc. Obviously, you want to be careful not to make your hands slippert or cause finishing problems.