Hand Tool Sharpening: What method do you use and why?

[HMH]

Hey Folks,

I'm slowly but surely building a pretty well equiped shop, picking up tools here and there as I need them, and I have recently picked up a pretty good collection of hand planes and chisels that I now need to keep sharp. I've done some research of the various means and methods, but I'd be interested to know what you folks are using and why...

Let me start out by saying that I currently have NOTHING with which to sharpen my woodworking blades, (other than a small wet stone I use on my pocket knife), so my options are pretty wide open. I'm leaning toward the Worksharp 3K as it seems to get good reviews, is quick, and is seemingly idiot-proof. That being said, I kind of like the old-school approach of using a good set of sharpening stones as well, but there would obviously be a decent learing curve to becoming efficient at that approach.

I know there are a ton of other methods as well, Scary sharp, slow-speed grinder w/ a Wolverine type jig, (or a really good eye), the Tormek, (more $$$ than I want to spend), etc. So I put it to you, How do you sharpen your hand tools?

Thanks guys.

[froglips]

Mostly water stones and a leather strop with a honing compound.

I dream of natural Japanese water stones, but just in now way feel worthy of such rare items.

You didn't mention, but might consider, a belt sander. It is a very versatile option.

Happy shopping!

Jim

[CarvedTones]

I use a few different things depending on the tool. I have a Worksharp 2000, which will do a lot of chisels and plane blades but not really wide or odd angles. You can do just about any angle on top with practice, but it has a jig for a fixed "standard" angle underneath that works for my #4, jack and block as well as a lot of my chisels. I also use a Veritas honing guide on diamond stones and sand paper for precise initial grinding of bevels by hand. It takes longer, but I get them right and don't overheat the tools. Once the bevel is established, keeping the angle free hand on the WorkSharp is easy and I use it to hne to mirror surface. I have a small honing cone that I use on pretty much all edges. I have The see through wheel on the WorkSharp for sharpening gouges (carving or turning). You mark the bevel with a sharpie and then look through the wheel and you can make sure you are keeping the angle right as you twist it by watching it take the sharpie mark off. I have shaped strops for the inside of gouges.

No matter which way you go, I think the honing cone is really important. If you hone your blades often, you will rarely need to do heavy duty shaping of the bevel and sharpening.

[Phil S]

If I want to put a very sharp edge on one or two tools I will always use a DMT diamond plate and a fine Arkansas oil stone followed by a leather strop and compound and I will be done in a matter of minutes. phil

[DaveO]

I use water stones, and a diamond plate. I think that for most applications the Worksharp is about the easiest and most economical way to go. If I didn't already have my other sharpening methods I would get one.


Dave

[McRabbet]

Worksharp 3000 with the extra wide blada attachment for my widest plane irons -- it is an easy tool to master and does a superb job. I've tried the other methods -- stones and a roller fixture and the scary sharp method with wet/dry paper. Using stones requires keeping them flattenend and clean and I found it difficult to get bevels square to the sides of either plane irons or chisels; the scary sharp method is better, but still has the same challenge. The WS 3K is like falling off a log -- once you do it, it is easy to repeat. Highly recommended.

A footnote -- if you have curved gouges or want to put a 25* bevel on your lawnmower blade, then other options might be better.

[CarvedTones]

Originally Posted by McRabbet

Worksharp 3000
...
A footnote -- if you have curved gouges or want to put a 25* bevel on your lawnmower blade, then other options might be better.

Have you got the see through disk? It makes gouges pretty easy with the sharpie method, though the bevel has to be established.

[Mike Davis]

I use a variety of tools but most often I go to the DMT full surface diamond plates. I don't like the plastic ones with holes in them.

I also have the great fortune to have gotten a great deal on a Wilton 2 x 72 belt grinder. It's the bomb for shaping steel.

[Ozzie-x]

For the initial grind on plane cutters or chisels from the wild, I generally use a disc sander with jigs I have made. I keep a container of water handy to quench often to prevent overheating and affecting the tempering. Lately I have been also been using my new variable speed grinder some. I exclusively use sandpaper to do all of my honing. I have a full set of water stones and they're too much trouble- they're messy, get full of sawdust and debris, will freeze in the winter, not to mention one trip to the concrete floor any they're history- not funny for an $80 stone. Sandpaper is cheap, durable and easy. For the initial hone, I may use a honing guide just to get the edge off to a good start. After that I just freehand. I have a piece of 1/2" plate glass when I want to do really good sandpaper sharpening, otherwise I generally just throw the sandpaper on the jointer bed or bandsaw for quick sharpenings while I'm working. For really good sharpening, I will generally go up through 2500 grit on the sandpaper then do final polishing on thin dense cardboard like shirt box or cigarette carton; I start on the back (coarse) of the cardboard and finish with the slick front side of the cardboard. I stopped using leather because I think even the hardest leather is soft enough to flex around the cutting edge and actually dull it when you get way down into the finer grits. Taking care of and protecting the edges of your edged tools and honing them when they start to get dull will minimize the need for serious honing or grinding. Sometimes you have to regrind an edge and start over when you gets chips or chinkers. Sharpening and razor sharp tools are an essential basic element in good woodworking and I tend to do what is the easiest and quickest.

[JimmyC]

For general sharpening I use the Worksharp 3000, dull chisels and plane blades cower at the site of it . Try one before making any decisions because it sharpend extremely well and is faster than anything else. I also use some stones, a high speed grinder and belt sander for some other things.

Good Luck.

[scsmith42]

Originally Posted by Ozzie-x

For the initial grind on plane cutters or chisels from the wild, I generally use a disc sander with jigs I have made. I keep a container of water handy to quench often to prevent overheating and affecting the tempering. Lately I have been also been using my new variable speed grinder some. I exclusively use sandpaper to do all of my honing. I have a full set of water stones and they're too much trouble- they're messy, get full of sawdust and debris, will freeze in the winter, not to mention one trip to the concrete floor any they're history- not funny for an $80 stone. Sandpaper is cheap, durable and easy. For the initial hone, I may use a honing guide just to get the edge off to a good start. After that I just freehand. I have a piece of 1/2" plate glass when I want to do really good sandpaper sharpening, otherwise I generally just throw the sandpaper on the jointer bed or bandsaw for quick sharpenings while I'm working. For really good sharpening, I will generally go up through 2500 grit on the sandpaper then do final polishing on thin dense cardboard like shirt box or cigarette carton; I start on the back (coarse) of the cardboard and finish with the slick front side of the cardboard. I stopped using leather because I think even the hardest leather is soft enough to flex around the cutting edge and actually dull it when you get way down into the finer grits. Taking care of and protecting the edges of your edged tools and honing them when they start to get dull will minimize the need for serious honing or grinding. Sometimes you have to regrind an edge and start over when you gets chips or chinkers. Sharpening and razor sharp tools are an essential basic element in good woodworking and I tend to do what is the easiest and quickest.

+1. 99% of my sharpening is with a belt or disc sander. If I want to get the tool sharper than that, I'll hone it using a sheet of glass with fine grit sandpaper on it.

This may not be the "best" method, but for me it is fast and effective.

[merrill77]

After trying a variety of methods over the years, I settled on a Worksharp 3000...because it's quick and easy.

[Gotcha6]

Presently I use a belt sander & the Woodcraft honing wheel. Latest edition of Shop Notes has an article about building a sharpening jig powered by your drillpress using self adhesive sanding pads. Looks like a worthwhile tool for initial sharpening & then hone out with the wheel or a granite block & fine grit wet or dry.

[rbdoby]

If I had to start all over again I'd do this.

Start with the WorkSharp 3000 because it has a short learning curve and will serve for most of your sharpening needs.

When you get comfortable with the WorkSharp buy a set of Norton water stones and a honing guide. Should run about $130 and has a good DVD on how to use the stones. This will allow you to fine tune your edges that you can't do on the WorkSharp like honing plane irons with a camber.

Rick Doby

[Rob]

Heath, I have a Worksharp 3000 if you want to try it out.