Wixey digital fence readout gauge - Page 2

DavidF · 07-03-2008, 11:20 AM

From whaat I understand talking to Stuart:
1. the tape and the measured wood match as they have always done 6" on the tape = 6" measured so I don't believe it is an exisiting condition.
2. The wood using the Wixey is cut too short. I.E when the tape and the wood measure 6" the Wixey is saying 6 1/16" so moving the fence back to where the Wixey says 6" gives an under cut of 1/16th.

I am happy to come and take a look Stuart if you can't get it sorted.

Alan in Little Washington · 07-03-2008, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by DavidF

From whaat I understand talking to Stuart:
1. the tape and the measured wood match as they have always done 6" on the tape = 6" measured so I don't believe it is an exisiting condition.
2. The wood using the Wixey is cut too short. I.E when the tape and the wood measure 6" the Wixey is saying 6 1/16" so moving the fence back to where the Wixey says 6" gives an under cut of 1/16th.

I am happy to come and take a look Stuart if you can't get it sorted.

In #1 above, if there are fence or blade problems, the tape cursor (fiducial mark) has been corrected for them. Which in essence is what Barry suggests below.

I exchanged emails with Barry earlier today. He said we are right on with the troubleshooting recommendations. He suggested one other thing to check- At the 6" setting, is the readout straddling a joint between two sections of sensor strip? If joint is too wide, every measurement beyond that joint (farther from the blade) will be out by the same amount.

Also, he said the following calibration technique which requires a digital caliper, overcomes blade and fence problems and is being used successfully by a number of people:

"Another calibration method used by people with calipers is to set (and lock) the fence anywhere and carefully make a sample cut. Then measure the piece with your calipers and without moving your fence, hold the ON/OFF button to set the display to 0.00 (calibrate it). Let’s say the piece cut measures 3.450” on your calipers. Now (unlock and) slide the fence toward the blade until the reading on the display says -3.450”. Now lock the fence at this point and make sure the reading still says -3.450”. If you now hold the ON/OFF button until the display reads 0.00” (calibrate) it should be calibrated exactly to the way your saw is cutting."

DavidF · 07-03-2008, 05:07 PM

Originally Posted by Alan in Little Washington

In #1 above, if there are fence or blade problems, the tape cursor (fiducial mark) has been corrected for them. Which in essence is what Barry suggests below.

I exchanged emails with Barry earlier today. He said we are right on with the troubleshooting recommendations. He suggested one other thing to check- At the 6" setting, is the readout straddling a joint between two sections of sensor strip? If joint is too wide, every measurement beyond that joint (farther from the blade) will be out by the same amount.

Also, he said the following calibration technique which requires a digital caliper, overcomes blade and fence problems and is being used successfully by a number of people:

"Another calibration method used by people with calipers is to set (and lock) the fence anywhere and carefully make a sample cut. Then measure the piece with your calipers and without moving your fence, hold the ON/OFF button to set the display to 0.00 (calibrate it). Let’s say the piece cut measures 3.450” on your calipers. Now (unlock and) slide the fence toward the blade until the reading on the display says -3.450”. Now lock the fence at this point and make sure the reading still says -3.450”. If you now hold the ON/OFF button until the display reads 0.00” (calibrate) it should be calibrated exactly to the way your saw is cutting."

I did ask Stuart that very question about the gap and whether the head passes over it before the error occurs. He said no. It really seems as though the 1/16th error occurs immediately after moving the fence away from the blade after calibrating which would point to hysteresis in the system as the fence makes contact with and then away from the blade. It's an interesting one for sure.

Tar Heel · 07-03-2008, 08:06 PM

I'm been out of town since my last post. Was actually in "little" Washington and was planning to be there until Sunday. Was hoping to drop by and see Alan. When we got to my MIL's place on the Pamilico River, we discovered that squirrels had gotten thru the installation and protective wire and had chewed thru every exposed waterline. Obviously, I'm now in Chapel Hill and will be back down there next Wed. thru, probably, Saturday or Sunday. Spent a few minutes in the shop and straightened the bracket I had adjusted. Still get the 1/16" difference. Also put on a new blade I bought recently. David, I'll probably take you up on your offer but won't be able to this weekend. My wife has reprogrammed the next few days and they will be spent with our kids/grandkids. This gadget is very frustrating to say the least.

I will try to get some more shop time over the next few days and try some of the things mentioned by Alan and David. Alan, my fence is a Biesemeyer.

BobcatBob · 07-03-2008, 08:07 PM

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Tom, the answers to your questions are no, yes, and yes. I'll try it with the fence locked. I have tried it several times at various widths since my initial post. The difference now is exactly 1/8 inch which, as we all know, is the width of the blade. The tape on my fence is dead-on accurate (why did I buy the Wixey?????). I can set the fence by the tape at, for example, 12" and the Wixey reads 12 1/8. Same 1/8" difference at different settings. ????????

After reading all the posts and suggestions, I would like to suggest this. You say the tape on your fence is dead-on accurate. That being the case set your fence to 1" using the tape on the fence and lock the fence. Make sure the Wixey is firmly attached to the fence and push the button to calibrate it. Move the fence out to 5" per the tape on the fence and again lock the fence. The Wixey should now read 4". Cut a board at this setting and see if it measures 5". If it does then there must be a procedure error when calibrating the fence to the blade.

Bob

Tar Heel · 07-03-2008, 09:35 PM

[quote=Alan in Little Washington;161493] I exchanged emails with Barry earlier today. He said we are right on with the troubleshooting recommendations. He suggested one other thing to check- At the 6" setting, is the readout straddling a joint between two sections of sensor strip? If joint is too wide, every measurement beyond that joint (farther from the blade) will be out by the same amount.

Also, he said the following calibration technique which requires a digital caliper, overcomes blade and fence problems and is being used successfully by a number of people (quote):

I just went out to the shop and tried the method Barry mentioned. BINGO!! It seems my problem is solved. I am a bit hesitant to say that it is definitely solved until I have an opportunity to spend more time in the shop making a few more test cuts. My frustration level is not quite as high now. Thanks to Alan, David, Barry, and all the rest of you who made suggestions.

Alan in Little Washington · 07-04-2008, 01:23 AM

[quote=Tar Heel;161535]

Originally Posted by Alan in Little Washington

I exchanged emails with Barry earlier today. He said we are right on with the troubleshooting recommendations. He suggested one other thing to check- At the 6" setting, is the readout straddling a joint between two sections of sensor strip? If joint is too wide, every measurement beyond that joint (farther from the blade) will be out by the same amount.

Also, he said the following calibration technique which requires a digital caliper, overcomes blade and fence problems and is being used successfully by a number of people (quote):

I just went out to the shop and tried the method Barry mentioned. BINGO!! It seems my problem is solved. I am a bit hesitant to say that it is definitely solved until I have an opportunity to spend more time in the shop making a few more test cuts. My frustration level is not quite as high now. Thanks to Alan, David, Barry, and all the rest of you who made suggestions.

Good to hear and I hope the problem is in fact solved or at least remedied. Someday when you have absolutely nothing to do, you will need to figure out what was going on.

If you get back out this way give me a call and stop in for a tour and a chat.

Tar Heel · 07-04-2008, 10:12 AM

Alan, I don't see how Barry's suggested method of calibration can not work. It's too logical not to work. I still would probably be fussin' and cussin' if it weren't for the relationship you have with Barry. I'll be sure to call you next week when I'm there.

Alan in Little Washington · 07-04-2008, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Alan, I don't see how Barry's suggested method of calibration can not work. It's too logical not to work. I still would probably be fussin' and cussin' if it weren't for the relationship you have with Barry. I'll be sure to call you next week when I'm there.

Stop by any time. Barry's suggestion was good, the only reason I said you may still have a problem, is because his unit was designed to be easily calibrated using the "fence kissing the blade" method and no other devices (like a digital caliper) which can itself introduce errors if not used carefully.