Strong wood filler

[Tom Dunn]

This picture shows the result of a second rate bedding job on a double barrel shotgun, a Brizilian made FIE, to be exact.
The recoil has caused a fair size piece of wood to exit the stock, which is lost, and I'm wondering what kind of a wood filler might be most suitable for making a repair.
It has to be strong, and also be able to fill the affected area so it can be contoured to the stock. Appearance is a secondary consideration here, function comes first.
After filling/fitting, I plan to "paint" the interion bedding area with JB Weld in an effort to strengthen the entire recoil lug area, hoping to prevent a re-occurance of this problem.

[Glennbear]

Since appearence is secondary, I would consider some of the West marine epoxy system products.

[Mike Davis]

Even though you say appearance is secondary it is not to be forsaken entirely.

I would get a piece of wood as close to the original as possible and scarf it into the stock. Lining the inside with JB is probably a good idea. Improper fit and poor grain orientation caused the problem in the first place so correct that as you go.

No change of finding a new stock for a decent price? Warranty?

[Tom Dunn]

I don't think it would be overly difficult to find a replacement stock, FIE imported a slew of these guns under different names. I'm not, however, convinced that the fit would be any better, perhaps leading to a re-occurance of the same problem. Warranty is moot, the gun was bought circa 1970.
I'm not sure I completely aware of just what you mean by "scarfing"?
I did fashion a piece of wood in consideration of attempting to glue it in place, but the missing wood is as oddly shaped as could be, so I "stepped back"..
Naturally, all suggestions are appreciated.

[Mike Davis]

In my senility I probably used the wrong word. I mean to cut the stock so that a new piece of wood will fit into it in such a way that it will be stronger than the original and still be fitted, grain matched and finished so that it is barely detectable.

[Tom Dunn]

I'm with ya now.
Seems like it would be misery to do it that way, but I will consider it further. The gun is likely slated to go to a "coach gun" configuration, so thats why I was not too concerned with appearance.

[JimD]

I use Acraglass gel for bedding rifles. It is epoxy but is thicker than most so it does not run all over the place. You can get it with some release compound in a little kit from Brownells or Midwayusa or a number of other gun type places. To make it even thicker and stronger, I have mixed powdered aluminum with it sometimes. For this, you could mix in some sawdust. They also sell glass ballons to use as a thicking agent. The epoxy will be stronger than the wood but it also will look like epoxy. You can get powdered stain to mix in to make it brown or black.

You need to take the action out of the stock (unless you never want it to come out), put release on the action, mix the epoxy and push it into the area and then put the action back to push the epoxy into the reverse image of the action. If there are openings on the action that will touch the epoxy, those need to be taped off or filled with modeling clay or the epoxy will get in there and the attachment could become permanent. I like to remove the action after 4-6 hours while the epoxy is still a little soft just in case I got epoxy somewhere it didn't belong. At that point it holds it's shape well but is soft enough you can get the action out regardless. General process is to push plenty in and then shape it on the outside after it sets up. If you are not generous with the epoxy, you get cavities you have to fill again (which is not the end of the world).

You also do not need release. Clear shoe polish works better than the release agent if you want very little space between the action and the stock. The release that comes in the kit works well but is thicker.

Jim

[Tom Dunn]

A thick consistancy is important on this.
Although my poor pictures don't show it, theres a fairly large opening below that missing piece, you can easily see the action springs. This double barrel beds on four points, the upper/lower corners, with the void between the points containing the "vitals".
I've used Accraglass on bolt guns many times, but this is my first such repair on a double.