Screws

[Travis Porter]

Working on my workbench and getting ready for the vises I need some strong number 12 wood screws. I have bought some from the BORG in the past and even with drilling pilot holes have broken them too easily in hard maple. Any suggestions locally or on the web? Specific types and part numbers would be appreciated.

[scsmith42]

Trav, have you ever bought from McFeeley's? I don't have any specific part numbers but their products are generally very good quality.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/

Scott

[adowden]

Travis,

If you want to get screws locally, I like Hillman Fasteners. I have bought them at Ace Hardware and True Value. I would predrill and soap the screws for extra insurance.

Amy

[randwool]

I second the recommendation for McFeeley's. Next day ground UPS delivery for NC and it's too easy to click, order, and be done with it.

[rbdoby]

Travis,

I also vote for McFeeley's but if you can not find what you want fromthem try McMaster-Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com/. If they ain't got it you don't need it.

Rick Doby

[Alan in Little Washington]

As was already mentioned- pre-drill and use soap, but pre-drill with a tapered drill bit. Also, nothing says you can't insert the screw and back it out a few times before finally setting it. The only time I break screws or bugger the heads is when I am too impatient.

[Travis Porter]

I haven't thought of the soap. That is not a bad idea...

I just remember drilling pilot holes and by hand screwing in number 12 screws and them breaking off and that is a project killer for me. I haven't used McFeely's for "large screws", but I will give them a shot.

Speaking of McFeely's, what is the general consensus on which screws to use for general woodworking? They have so many varieties that I am not sure what to get. Lengths are a no brainer, but silicon bronze, steel, which ones?

[SteveColes]

Originally Posted by randwool

. Next day ground UPS delivery for NC and it's too easy to click, order, and be done with it.

The next day UPS ground days have just gone They have moved from VA to WI and are still backed up. Right order filling and shipment is the pits. I won't order from them again for a month and then delivery will be now 2-3 days

[cpowell]

Travis, I used lag screws and flat head screws from the BORG...so far no problem. I measured the bolt/screw size with calipers (inside the threads) and picked a slightly larger drill bit. I used Johnson's wax and took my time using a ratchet by hand for the hex head lag screws and cordless drill on moderate torque (setting of 13 out of 16 max) for the Phillips flat head screws. Absolutely no problems.

My end vise table plate...5 each 5/16 x 3 inch hex head lag screws...2 each No 14 (3 inch) brass flat head screws (best I could find at Lowes). The flat head screws go under the guide rods.

End vise outer jaws...3 each No 14 x 2 inch Brass flathead screws. I will change these out one day since I don't like the shiny look. I don't believe for a second that they will fail me though.

Front vise...3/8 x 3 inch hex head lag screws (haven't mounted this one and may try to find some 7/16 lag screws since the mounting holes are 7/16 and this vise only has 4 mounting holes...BORG only had 3/8 or 1/2 sizes).

I pre-drilled the holes for the end vise jaw (PH) and waxed a screw and attempted to drive it...too much torque required. I went to a larger drill bit, re-drilled, rewaxed and things went just fine. Purpleheart is HARD. Maple is fairly forgiving but I believe PH will make you pay for undersizing.

For the lag screws I counterbored full size about 3/8 inch to accept the thicker portion at the head end of the bolt.

The threads on all of the screws I used had a lot of bite so there was no reason to size the hole too small when drilling.


Chuck

[FredP]

have you tried wilders? they are right next door to habitat for humanity off hodges road inside the beltline.


fred

[JackLeg]

My old Dad, (God rest his soul) used to bore a small hole in the end of his hammer handle and pack it with beeswax. If he needed a little help driving a nail in oak, he just stuck it in the beeswax and drove her home! Just a thought! (From an Old Fart)

[junquecol]

Another vote for Wilders. I would avoid using the soap though. Soap attacts moisture, and moisture causes rust. Get a block of parraffin (Gulf Wax). Heat screw slightly over a torch, or other source of heat, then touch tread area to block of wax. Belive it or not, this is how cement coated nails came about. Framers in Calif. would take a bucket with some gasoline in it and desolve a block of wax into it. Drop a box of nails into mixture, then pour everything out onto a old piece of burlap. Gas would evaporate, leaving wax residue on nails. 16d nails could be driven home in one or two strokes.

[mshel]

Don't know if they are still made of beeswax but you can take a toliet bowl wax ring (available at the borgs) and use it for screw starter lube. Have done this in the past and it works pretty good. I bought some stuff made by Lennox which I believe is a blade lube that I use for screw lube.

As for screws, I got mine from Jamestown Distributors as they have bronze, ss, etc. in the larger sizes I needed. I used #18 , #16 for mounting my emmert vise.

Mike

[Touchwood]

I use McFeelys #10 4" screws in assembly of rocker headrest to back legs, and arms as well. Good old beeswax is the best for lube IMHO. McF have a much bigger thread to body ratio than most..ie. more thread, less shaft, better grip and less splitting stress on the wood.

Don

[Travis Porter]

I think I will do a combo here. I am going to go by Wilder's in Raleigh and order some from McFeely's. I need some larger longer sizes in general anyway, and checking out a hardware store I haven't been to before is always a treat.

Lubricating the screws isn't something I have done before, but it does make sense. I use oil on rusty bolts so why not lubricate a screw.