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Old 04-16-2006, 08:18 PM   #1
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Despite my limited shop space due to a huge stack of wood in the middle of it. I did manage to put my new mortiser to use and start the M & T work on the legs and aprons. After adjusting the dovetailed gib on the mortiser, I got it to a point where it was working very smoothly with little effort. So I mortised the legs and cut the tenons on the RAS with a dado stack and a little clean-up with a chisel. I still have to make the bottom stretchers and the drawer, and cut a few decorative elements.



Any good advice on the best way to do the drawer guides. The drawer will be inset. I had thought about using 2 "L" shaped runners to guide the bottom of the drawer. Or 2 wood runners that will fit in grooves in the side of the drawer.
Dave
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:35 PM   #2
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Looks like someone has been busy. Beautiful table Dave. I can't wait to see it completed. Keep the sawdust flying. I have been working at the beach for the last three days. Can't wait to get back in my shop tomorrow.
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:42 PM   #3
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Dave, Real nice table!


btw, how did you build your outfeed/extension table? as a result of some of the fixtures we demo'ed in my store, I have a huge piece of gray melamine, which I am sure is dying to become my outfeed table.
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:49 PM   #4
 
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Nice progress on the table Dave. There is an article on wooden side mounted drawer slides in the latest edition of FWW. If you elect to go that route you will have to add a side wall to the inside of your drawer opening though.

D L
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:10 PM   #5
 
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Dave - Glad to see you're putting the new toy to work! And those are some nice looking M&T joints!

I've had good luck with the L-shaped runners on the bottom corners but don't have experience with the slotted runners.

BTW, does the masking tape on the legs cover up your "practice mortises"?

Chuck
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:15 PM   #6
 
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Nice work Dave! Looks great so far. I wish I could accomplish that much in a weekend right now!
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by NCPete
Dave, Real nice table!


btw, how did you build your outfeed/extension table? as a result of some of the fixtures we demo'ed in my store, I have a huge piece of gray melamine, which I am sure is dying to become my outfeed table.
Thanks Pete, my outfeed table is just 2 X 4 construction with the Melamine as a top surface, then edged with Pauduk.
Dave
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:21 PM   #8
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any pics? off to your gallery I go!
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cpowell
Dave - Glad to see you're putting the new toy to work! And those are some nice looking M&T joints!

I've had good luck with the L-shaped runners on the bottom corners but don't have experience with the slotted runners.

BTW, does the masking tape on the legs cover up your "practice mortises"?

Chuck
Chuck how do you join the L-shaped runners to the aprons. I am leaning towards that route, but can decide on the best jointery for it.
The masking tape marks which leg is which, so I hopefully don't get them mixed up
Dave
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Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile

Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:24 PM   #10
 
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Its looking good

Like that work benck
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:38 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by earl
Like that work benck
.

That's not a work bench! that's an assembly table with a high-quality contractor saw built in!
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:58 PM   #12
 
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Great progress - thanks for keeping us updated!
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:50 AM   #13
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Looks great DaveO!

You get a mortiser and Bingo!

Now you've got a shop full of wood

. . . and then you'll have scraps

Sapwood
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:27 AM   #14
 
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Dave cool table are the legs tapered, I can't tell from the pics.

Drawer Glide ---> http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/g...w.project.html

I've seen and worked on this type of drawer slide, on higher end pieces of furniture. Sorry I don't give written instructions very well, so if you have any questions (which I'm sure you will) let me know.

Cool table
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:17 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by DaveO
Chuck how do you join the L-shaped runners to the aprons. I am leaning towards that route, but can decide on the best jointery for it.
The masking tape marks which leg is which, so I hopefully don't get them mixed up
Dave
I had already picked up on the tape to mark the front side!

Mortise the guides into the front and rear apron. Use a dovetailed wood center guide to keep the drawer from tilting when it is opened. The center guide will maintain alignment so the side runners simply support vertical load.

Or use pocket screws at the ends of the runners into the front and rear apron. Or glue a small horizontal ledge to the apron to support the runner then pocket screw for alignment. That way the screw wouldn't carry the load.

I built a Shaker style cherry 7 drawer dresser where I had to pocket screw the T-shaped end guides for the center end of the drawers into the 3/4 face frames. Made me kinda nervous every time I drove a screw in...I was waiting to hear the CrrrrAckkkkk!! Never happened though!

Chuck
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