Plant Stand Pics

[cpowell]

LOML likes the plant stand from American WWer, link here http://www.americanwoodworker.com/us...nth/page2.html

This would go in the living room. I want to modify the plans, using a triangle center post, straighten the arm lines, and replace the discs used in the AWW plans with triangles. Lower set of arms would be 120 deg apart. Upper set would also be 120 deg apart and would extend in opposite direction of lower set. Lower set arms will be longer than upper.

The idea would be a triangle theme throughout, rather than rectangles/circles.

The modified plan would allow 7 plants rather than 9. I think 9 is overkill for our living room location.

Thinking bloodwood post, arms. Triangular pot bases would be bubinga. Probably use wenge accent pieces.

As a compromise I guess I could use triangular post and discs for the pots to sit on instead of triangles.

So, whaddya think about the design shape...and wood selection?

Chuck

[jglord]

Other than doing 120 degree arms being harder - i.e. 90 degree set-up is usually pretty easy - I think your idea is fine. With 9 plants, it could easily get to look like a bush instead of individual plants.
Sounds like the wood you've selected will be beautiful. I'd consider a marine finish to both protect the wood from water and to preserve the color.

[JohnW]

Chuck,

I agree 100% that the four arm configuration is "too much" I've see this same concept in metal with the 3-arm theme minus the top pot for a total of 6 plants. Wouldn't want much more or it would be too crowded.

As you said, the triangular design allows you to easily offset the top and bottom arms which will allow your hanging plants the room to ...hang.

I think I would use disc's for the pot holders. Once the pots are there they would not be very visible and a disc with a shallow well routed out would help to hold the pots in place. Unless you are using triangular pots....

I like your wood choices for color blend. My only caution would be:
IMHO, A lot of different colors on the stand might be too busy... But as long as the colors blend it should look nice.

I'll be interested in how yours turns out. Please post a pic. This would make a nice gift for my flower lovin green thumbed mom. errrr make that a "white thumb".

[cpowell]

Originally Posted by JohnW

Chuck,

I agree 100% that the four arm configuration is "too much" I've see this same concept in metal with the 3-arm theme minus the top pot for a total of 6 plants. Wouldn't want much more or it would be too crowded.

As you said, the triangular design allows you to easily offset the top and bottom arms which will allow your hanging plants the room to ...hang.

I think I would use disc's for the pot holders. Once the pots are there they would not be very visible and a disc with a shallow well routed out would help to hold the pots in place. Unless you are using triangular pots....

I like your wood choices for color blend. My only caution would be:
IMHO, A lot of different colors on the stand might be too busy... But as long as the colors blend it should look nice.

I'll be interested in how yours turns out. Please post a pic. This would make a nice gift for my flower lovin green thumbed mom. errrr make that a "white thumb".

My bubinga is 9 1/2 inches wide. I worked out the geometry and an equilateral triangle with 9 inch sides only gives me a diameter of 5 1/4 inches for the pots. That's too small to work with.

Looks like circullar discs to sit the pots on. I like the "routed well" idea but am not quite sure how to easily make the cut.

Chuck

[JohnW]

Chuck...Another suggestion.

Craft stores sell clear plastic flower pot trays with a lip around the edge. You can attach these to your disks to hold the flower pot and water the plants from this bottom tray which is typically the best method of watering. A few stick-on rubber non-slide thingys whatever they're called, on the bottom of the tray might be all that's needed to keep them on your wooden disk. If you want it more secure, use hot glue or screw and gasket washer to hold the plastic tray down.

These trays will also help keep the water off your wooden creation. The trays are available in different colors if clear doesn't do it for you.

Keep thinking....A good plan is coming together.

[McRabbet]

If you do want to make a well in the disks, you can do as I did with my Wine Cellar Project "Bottle Shelves" (click to expand):

These were hollowed out using a Jasper Circle Cutter with a 3/4" Core Box bit for the hollow perimeter cut and a 1/2" straight bit to remove the remaining stock down to the last 1/4" "post" with the cutter pivot pin in it -- that was them cut off with a chisel and a small mop sanding attachment used to clean up the imperfections. This hollow is the diameter of a wine bottle, about 3-1/4" IIRC. Take your time and the results can be excellent. On key point: be careful of router bit burn on the perimeter cut -- keep the cut radius increment as small as possible and move the router fairly quickly to avoid the burn with the bit spinning in place against the wood. Bubinga is real hard, but I did these in White Oak and it went fine. HTH YMMV...

[cpowell]

Here's a few pics showing some progress. I'm going for straight lines and triangles...DON'T laugh!

The post, legs, and arms are in bloodwood. Discs for plants will be long grain glued onto the flats of the legs and arms, appx 7 inch diameter in bubinga. I'll make a cap for the post. I'm thinking about a flattened triangular pyramid. The stand will hold 6 small plants of LOML's choosing.

Legs and arms are attached with screws in a triangular pattern since everything is cross grain. Will plug with wenge for an accent. I have figured out why most of the ones I've seen are square post...the triangular post is a lot more trouble to work with.

I'll post some pics when I get the top and discs in place.

Chuck

[cpowell]

Here's a pic with a single bubinga disc. The disc is 6 inches diameter cut from a scrap piece...actual will be 7 - 7 1/2 diameter.

I don't like the color blend. The "brown" bubinga and reddish hued bloodwood don't look very good. More importantly, LOML doesn't like it.

I think ebony-colored discs would look cool. Is there a dye I could use to make the wood black?

Any other ideas?

I've looked at walnut, wenge, padauk, cherry, sapele. Light colored wood has been ruled out by SWMBO.

Chuck

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by cpowell

I think ebony-colored discs would look cool. Is there a dye I could use to make the wood black?

Chuck

I have heard the India Ink is an excellent jet black dye to ebonize wood. You should be able to find it at any decent art supply store or I am sure that Transtint makes a black dye that you could use. DavidF ebonized the legs of his demilune table, maybe he'll chime in with his suggestions.
Dave

[McRabbet]

I'd go with Black Walnut or ebonized Maple -- check with DavidF on the method he used to ebonize the legs on his Lake Jordan Demilune Table.

Gee whiz, Dave -- you and I sure think alike! I was posting the above while you posted your comment!

[sapwood]

Looking good Chuck
IMO the stand would look great without contrasting woods. The beauty of the bloodwood would work for disk and stand. IIRC bloodwood is likely to change color. Of course, all choices should be made in deference to LOYL

Roger

[Travis Porter]

Transtint does make a black, I have some, and it is quite difficult to wash off if you get it on your hands. DAMHIKT.

[cpowell]

Here's finished pics. I went with bloodwood throughout after experimenting with India ink ebonizing. I tried ebonizing with poplar, cherry and bloodwood. Poplar just did not look good. Cherry looked better. The bloodwood looked fantastic but I couldn't bring myself around to covering up beautiful wood.

I added a triangular pyramid cap to the center post and wenge accent plugs. LOML is happy!

One coat of marine spar varnish (with UV filtering). This is the first time I've used spar varnish and it is really easy to brush on. Unfortunately, it does darken the color a bit.

I'll put a second coat on the disc top surfaces and maybe touchup a few places. I'm afraid if I put another full coat it will result in a level surface and I like the look I have after one coat, plus I don't want any more darkening. Bloodwood has a silky smooth surface. A little bit of varnish goes a LONG way! I can see my reflection in the finish after a single coat.

Chuck

[McRabbet]

Superb job, Chuck -- glad to hear that LOML is happy with it, too! Nice deep color to the wood -- you're probably right about the single coat to avoid darkening the wood any further. I would suggest using clear plastic plates under the pots to avoid any water standing on the disks to protect the finish even further.

[MarkW]

I really like it, both design and execution!. I may try one of those myself.