New Mobile Router Table is complete

Splinter · 02-13-2006, 10:26 PM

My new router table is complete and already making sawdust.

Only had to buy hardware and ply for drawer bottoms. Everything else was "excess" material lying around shop.

Fence and Rockler plate. The fence has sliding front to close up around the bit and will be easily replaced when needed. The fence is all MDF except the ends that attached to the T-Track.

Fence attached to T-Tracks in table edges.

4 bit drawers , router compartment and 2 misc drawers.

Specs:
Top is 32" x 28"; Cabinet height is 36 7/8"; cabinet box is 24" x 24"; 4 bit drawers will hold a max of 120 - 1/2" bit and 34 - 1/4" bits; 2 misc drawers for box set bits etc.; center of plate is 9" from front edge of table; 4" overhang on sides and 1 1/2" front and back.
Fence can be turned around and used on the front side of the plate when routing larger items on the back side of the plate. More photos in gallery.

I used the table today after I finished it to make a couple of paper towel holders and it really works good. I wish I had made it two years ago. Someone in an earlier post asked about RT heights. I am 5'11" and I don't have to bend over at all to use this table.

DaveO · 02-13-2006, 10:37 PM

Wow, that came out really nice. I like your fence tracks on the side, great idea. How did you make the drawer/cabinet pulls?
After I finished mine I routed a rabbet in the edge of a 2.5" dia. circle to make a zero-clearance insert for my scroll saw, something that I would have never attempted on my old POS table or free hand. I too, don't know how I got along without it.

Dave

Splinter · 02-13-2006, 11:00 PM

Dave, I glued up two pieces of 3/4" scrap maple and routed the edges and then ripped them to width on the tablesaw and then routed the other edge. Then chopped the pieces to length. I started to buy round wood pulls but I was trying to save as many $$ as possible, plus I thought I could learn something by making them myself. I just read an article (Shop Notes it think) that showed you how to make round pulls with the router. Might try this when I have more time. But I have to get busy on my next project. A baby cradle for my first grandchild that is due in 9 weeks.

DaveO · 02-13-2006, 11:41 PM

Ok, I am seeing the top and bottom two round-overs but what did you use to route the slant back to the cabinet on the top side? Early congrats on the first grandbaby

get ready to start spoiling him/her. Oh, you already are...a handcraftd baby cradle, the baby will never sleep better

Dave

Canuck · 02-13-2006, 11:58 PM

Awesome Job Splinter!

I too like the t-track on the sides! Looks like you really got a nice snug fit for the plate as well.

Thanks for posting the specs.

Wayne

D L Ames · 02-14-2006, 01:20 AM

Dolan, your RT turned out fantastic.

I too like your method of mounting the T-tracks on the side of the table. What are you using for a DC set up?

D L

Travis Porter · 02-14-2006, 07:45 PM

Very nice and I am sure you will kick yourself everytime you use it for not building it sooner.

Canuck · 02-14-2006, 08:02 PM

Hi Dolan,

What brand of plate are you using in the table? Also, is that a Dewalt that I see tucked inside? What model of router do you have mounted?

Again. Really think you did a fine job, especially all of the storage built in!

Thanks,

Wayne

michaelgarner · 02-14-2006, 08:29 PM

great job,
How do you like that T-Track? I havent purchased any yet but best price in the market, neck and neck with rockler

Splinter · 02-14-2006, 08:29 PM

Originally Posted by DaveO

Ok, I am seeing the top and bottom two round-overs but what did you use to route the slant back to the cabinet on the top side? Early congrats on the first grandbaby get ready to start spoiling him/her. Oh, you already are...a handcraftd baby cradle, the baby will never sleep better

Dave

Dave I used a cove bit to cut the back edge of the handles. I made two passes on each edge, adjusting the fence position for each pass. I might of used a bigger cove bit and got a similar result, didn't think if that until later. These work okay but a round pull would be better in some ways. These catch a little of the wood chips from the router where a round pull probably wouldn't. Oh well the price was right and they are easy to grab hold of.

Splinter · 02-14-2006, 08:39 PM

Originally Posted by D L Ames

Dolan, your RT turned out fantastic. I too like your method of mounting the T-tracks on the side of the table. What are you using for a DC set up?

D L

For now I am just using the 2 1/4" hose connected to the fence that goes to one port of my Jet DC. I have not decided how or if I am going to put a DC connection in the router compartment. If I do I will probably use some type of "Y" so the hose on the fence can be connected also.

A tip for anyone that makes a fence that connects to T-Tracks like mine: Make the base of the fence 1/8" or maybe even 3/16" longer that the table is wide to allow the fence to move freely.

Splinter · 02-14-2006, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by Canuk

Hi Dolan,

What brand of plate are you using in the table? Also, is that a Dewalt that I see tucked inside? What model of router do you have mounted?

Again. Really think you did a fine job, especially all of the storage built in!

Thanks,

Wayne

Wayne, the plate is the "Standard" size from Rockler. It is 8" x 11" - 1/4" aluminum and predrilled for several different routers including the DW618 that you see tucked in my table. The plate also has three threaded 1/4 x 20 holes that you can use for started pins, etc. They didn't provide a pin but I had one or one could be made with a bolt. I like the starter pin screwed in rather than just pushed in. If the starter pins was to come loose while routing bad things could happen.

The plate comes with two inserts (more can be purchased) and 4 confirmat screws that you put in the corners of the cutout to level the plate in the cutout. Worked really nice. I also bought the plate installation template ($8.99). After all the hours I put into the top, I didn't want to take a chance of screwing up the cutout and ruining the top.

Rockler also has a "Large" 9" x 13" but it was not predrilled for the DW618. Being predrilled and aluminum helped me make up my mind to get the Rockler. I have mounted two other routers in tables before and having to make sure you get the router dead center is not much fun.

Canuck · 02-14-2006, 09:22 PM

Thanks again, Dolan. You have given me some leads and great ideas!

Wayne

Splinter · 02-14-2006, 09:52 PM

Originally Posted by michaelgarner

great job,
How do you like that T-Track? I havent purchased any yet but best price in the market, neck and neck with rockler

Michael, I got the T-Track from Hartville Tool ( 4 - 36" pieces for $30.00). You can use the 1/4" hex head bolts in it but the 5/16" T-Slot bolts (or large toilet bolts) head has to be ground down to slid in the track. The rockler T-Track is thicker than the Hartville T-Track so the grove for the rockler track must be deeper.

Monty · 02-14-2006, 10:08 PM

Nice lookin' router table ya got there! I have a similar project to do in the near future - thanks for the inspiration!

Residency requirements