Mobile multi-functional shop utility convertible fliptop miter saw/ sander stand

Bas · 08-02-2008, 01:27 AM

One of the first tools I bought for my shop was a miter saw. This was before I had even gotten into woodworking, I just needed something to cut 2x4's and baseboard. It's actually not a bad saw, but it had two problems:
1. It took up a lot of space on my workbench

2. It produced a lot of sawdust in the wrong part of the shop

My shop is pretty small, so I'm always fighting issue #1

. And it's inevitable that miter saws produce sawdust, I don't really mind except that it gets spread all over the workbench. I don't know about you, but I keep screws, drill bits, shop rags, batteries, glue brushes etc. on my bench, which means you can't just use the shop vac to get rid of the dust. (Well, you can, but then you're sifting through the canister every day

)

A few months ago, Lowe's was clearing the B&D Firestorm disc/ belt sanders, for $25

Had to get one of course. Turns out to be a pretty useful machine! Except....see problems #1 and #2

To solve both problems, I built a mobile multi-functional shop utility convertible fliptop miter saw/ sander stand (with drawer) (tm). I can now keep these tools in the back of the shop with the other dust producers, and hook it up to the DC piping or shopvac. Here's a shot of the unfinished stand, look at all the stuf on the workbench:

Here's a shot of the finished stand, TONS of space now. An abundance. A cornucopia. I daresay even a PLETHORA of space! I vow to keep my workbench this clean FOREVER! Well, for a while at least. This weekend for sure. At least this Saturday!

I added some side wings to help cutting long boards. Folded down, the cabinet fits easily in the corner.

The wing supports are made from oak, beveled at 45 degrees on the end so they sit flush against the top and side. I used a piece of angled metal as the stop, and a piece of piano hinge to fasten it to the side. I have some shimmin' and trimmin' to do to get the wings perfectly flush with the miter saw bed, but it's very close already.

This is the first drawer I made that used the side-mounted drawer slides. It came out pretty good, very smooth action. I used the lock miter joint, which wasn't too hard to cut after figuring out how to set up the table saw.

The drawer is finished with amber shellac, in hindsight I should have gone with the dewaxed kind, but it was the first time I used shellac. Sprayed no less! I don't care much for the smell, but the fast drying time is nice.

The cabinet is made from birch plywood, trimmed out with some of Jeff's wonderful QS beech. This is the first time I used Beech, and I like it. It has a very fine structure that finishes beautifully. It cuts well, and sanding/ scraping isn't too bad, provided the grain cooperates. If you have a spot where the grain changes direction, oooh boy. Sometimes, there is an area where the grain is going circular, and it becomes this rough, almost fuzzy spot. One board had the grain going all over the place, it splintered/ cracked in a weak area and quickly achieved "firewood" status.

But most of the time, it's not too bad.

I also discovered it's much better to build a face frame rather than gluing on the strips individually. Gluing the pieces one by one takes far too long, since you have to clamp it separately and wait for the glue to dry before you can do the next one. And it's hard to make tight joints this way.

So, lots of "firsts" in this one, including a little metalworking. I copied the idea for the pivot from Monty's cabinet, that was very helpful.

Of course, for a shop cabinet, I probably went a little overboard, finishing it like a "real" piece of furniture. But a man has gotta work in style! Plus, this way, I got many hours of enjoyment out of this project. Many, many hours. Many, many, MANY hours

.

TV · 08-02-2008, 01:34 AM

I like it, Bas. Functional for at least two tools, has storage and mobile for easy use. If you aren't busy this weekend, feel free to make another just like it and drop it off in Holly Springs.

tv

erasmussen · 08-02-2008, 01:59 AM

Cool i like it

skysharks · 08-02-2008, 06:28 AM

Great Job Bas man. I have seen this before, but to actually know someone that made one is way cool.

I know you got to be happy with it. Nice finish.

Have fun with all the "more room" that you have now. Cause you will soon fill in those voids,

.
It's coming you know it is.

NC Scroller · 08-02-2008, 07:34 AM

I have had the opportunity to view and touch it first hand. Bas

.

toolferone · 08-02-2008, 08:05 AM

That came out very nice. I see nothing wrong with putting a nice finish on the shop cabinets. At the very least it is good practice.

Glennbear · 08-02-2008, 08:26 AM

Very nice Bas !!!

From MESS to MUSS (Maximum Utilization of Skimpy Space)

I agree with Tom, the fine finishing on shop fixtures is excellent practice without the potential for panic involved in furniture finishing on fine pieces. Easily a three digit price tag had you purchased a similar stand unit from a commericial entity so it must appeal to your inherently frugal nature

woodArtz · 08-02-2008, 08:29 AM

Very nice work Bas! In our smaller shops these multi-functional, mobile work surfaces are essential. Great job!!!

rsitzejr · 08-02-2008, 09:07 AM

Now you have me thinking about building one. Looks great. And I finish all my shop cabinets like that. Not only does it give you practice, but it shows your skill in your shop. My opinion is you can always tell a good woodworker by looking at what he built to use in his shop.

JackLeg · 08-02-2008, 09:33 AM

Great job, great pics, great narrative!

Canuck · 08-02-2008, 10:22 AM

Nice work, Bas!!! Practical as well as pretty!

Sure like the casters. Bet it rolls real easy and locks real tight. (I have tried the cheap plastic wheeled casters and find myself chasing the cart all over as it skids on the concrete

!)

Excellent utilization of the shop real estate.

Wayne

Bas · 08-02-2008, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by Glennbear

Easily a three digit price tag had you purchased a similar stand unit from a commericial entity so it must appeal to your inherently frugal nature

It always starts out that way, but when you add it all up, these shop projects get pretty expensive. Full sheet of hardwood plywood, hardware, casters, slides, sandpaper, glue, brushes - we're into three digits here, easily. But hey, this is a hobby! If I played golf, hour for hour, I'd have spent 10 times that in green fees

Originally Posted by rsitzejr

My opinion is you can always tell a good woodworker by looking at what he built to use in his shop.

Very true! And, a good woodworker can tell how to build stuff by looking what he built for his own shop. Translation: I will never be able to reproduce that lock miter joint without a working example

Originally Posted by Canuck

Sure like the casters. Bet it rolls real easy and locks real tight. (I have tried the cheap plastic wheeled casters and find myself chasing the cart all over as it skids on the concrete!)

Those casters are great. I got them from Grizzly, $25 for the set. They lock both ways, which helps keep things stable - not a bad idea with a spinning sawblade

I also opted to go with four swivel casters, instead of the usual two swivel/ two fixed casters. In tight spaces, you need the extra maneuverability.

Thanks for all the nice comments

rsitzejr · 08-02-2008, 11:47 AM

Bas, any tricks to mounting the drawer slides? I'm going to be mounting 5 of them, figured I would cut a spacer to use to lay the outside slide on, that way both sides are even, but mounting the inside drawer slide so it matches up has me a little baffled. I'm figuring another spacer a little larger then the one used on the outside slide (measurement to be determined).

b4man · 08-02-2008, 12:03 PM

Bas,
That is the best multifunction cabinet I've seen yet. You've got me thinking about my next project! Are you available for a consult, cheep?

Bas · 08-02-2008, 01:13 PM

Attaching the inner drawer slide is easy - it goes on the center of the drawer. The trick is spacing the outer slides properly, that's the one that has to match. With only one drawer, this wasn't an issue, but with multiple, you'll need to plan ahead. It also matters if you're using a drawer face that's bigger than the opening. If the drawer + face is say 6" tall, then the outer slides need to be spaced 6" on center, plus whatever reveal you want (typically 1/8").

This video helped me out enormously: http://link.brightcove.com/services/...ctid1213998904. I used two very simple spacers - shims that were 3" tall. With only one drawer, that was all I needed. If I had multiple drawers, I'd simply rip a strip that was the height of the drawer, minus the width of the slide, plus the reveal. Then you can simply install the bottom outer slide, put this spacer on top, screw in the second outer slide, and repeat.

One really trick shown in the video is to use the horizontal screw slots for the outer slides and vertical screw slots for the inside, so you have about 1/8" of adjustment to make in either direction. That helps quite a bit.

Worst case, you end up with a few more holes in your cabinet, which nobody will ever see. I thought drawers were quite intimidating until I actually made one.

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