MDF Wall Cabinets

MDF Wall Cabinets · 07-30-2009, 11:00 PM

I've needed wall storage in my garage for quite some time now. I have 3 sheets of 3/4 MDF for another project that a friend decided not to go through with. As it's for my garage I don't really care that its going to be made of MDF and those sheets are driving me crazy.

I have found tons of google hits on MDF doors but nothing really decent on how to build the cabinet itself. Any suggestions on how I should do this? How should I join them, what kind of hardware, etc. At this point, doors are pretty optional although i wouldn't mind making them just for the experience of doing it.

I'd like to paint them too, that brownish grey doesnt do it for me, hehe.

About all I'vwe done with MDF is use them for table tops and to do test runs in my router table.

gator · 07-30-2009, 11:07 PM

Just build basic cabinet carcasses using glue and 'conformat' screws.

George

DaveO · 07-30-2009, 11:13 PM

I have also had very good results using biscuits and glue. The screws are faster, the biscuits are in the shop.

Dave

pirate71 · 07-30-2009, 11:52 PM

I built a bunch of cabinets over time when I had the garage built and I just used whatever I had around. Mdf is pretty good for building storage cheap.

If you have 3 sheets of mdf and you want to build wall cabinets, you can build one 96" tall, 48 and 3/4" wide, and 16" deep and that will about use up all the 3 sheets assuming you make doors. I would make doors just to hide things and keep the dust out.

One sheet is used for each side - 96" tall by 16". Use the left over 96x16 for two of the shelves 48x15 and 3/4(this leaves room for the back(I use a $10 piece of luan). Use the second sheet to cut all the remaining shelves. Use the third sheet to cut the doors.

The face frame is about 2" wide on each side and down the middle. Since you are going to paint, any fairly straight cheap lumber from lowes/HD will work fine. THe top and bottom can be any width you want but it looks better to make the bottom part of the frame at least 3 and 1/2". Most of the time the top is 5 or so inches to allow for molding. Secure the frame to the carcas with finish nails/glue. Secure the parts of the frame to each other with glue and biscuits.

I tend to cut a 1/4' dado in the sides for each shelf to slip into. If you don't have a dado blade, then just make some 1" strips and glue/nail them for the shelf to sit on.

The doors just need to be cut 1/2" larger than each opening on all four sides.

I just made one similiar for my garage and I will be glad to send you a photo of it. In fact, if you are near Durham, you are welcome to stop by and look at it - I'm here most all the time.

Evans

zapdafish · 07-30-2009, 11:52 PM

hrmm, spline joinery work? I dont have a biscuit joiner and pricing out a confirmat starter kit and screws came out to be pretty pricey.

pirate71 · 07-31-2009, 12:07 AM

I've built some cabinets without biscuits. ALso, I've always used drywall screws(that's what I had around). If you use drywall screws, predrill the hole in the sides and no predrill in the shelf. Just make sure you don't put those screws too close to the edge of the shelf on the MDf since MDF tends to split easily.

Evans

Gregory Paolini · 07-31-2009, 08:33 AM

If you really want quick, easy, and sturdy, I would just do butt joints with screws. AWI custom standards for cabinetry are three screws for wall cabinets, 5 screws for base cabinets (Actual spec is a bit more involved, but that's the jist of it). Since they're for yourself, I would use 1 5/8 steel deck screws - Be sure to predrill!!! Avoid Drywall screws in the MDF, they don't have the strength, and may even snap during install...

You can even tack the pieces togeather with a brad nailer, to hold them steady enough to drill and screw.

If you want a little diagram for layout, just let me know.

pirate71 · 07-31-2009, 09:15 AM

Greg -

You are right about predrill. I actually went out and tried screws in MDF without predrill and I couldn't get one to go in without separating the MDF material. Predrilling did the trick.

I've never had problems with drywall screws in MDF breaking since they tend to give in the material before breaking but I've sure had them break off in denser material. If one had to buy screws anyway, drywall probably isn't the best choice.

Evans

pirate71 · 07-31-2009, 09:53 AM

While we are on this topic, I have some questions for those who know how to do cabinets "the professional way".

How do you attach shelves? Do you use dados? Do you just use nails and glue?

How do you do face frames? Do you build those separate and then attach them to the carcass? How do you join various parts of the face frame to each other?

Since I have not had any formal training....just doing things the best way I could figure out, I'm always interested to know how those with experience "do things the right way".

Evans

Canuck · 07-31-2009, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by pirate71

While we are on this topic, I have some questions for those who know how to do cabinets "the professional way".

How do you attach shelves? Do you use dados? Do you just use nails and glue? I usually plow a 1/4" dado to support the shelves. Just glue will hold the shelf in the dado or you could fire a brad or two at an angle to the joint to hide the nail head. (I cut a rabbet in the top and bottom of the carcass to capture the sides.)

How do you do face frames? Do you build those separate and then attach them to the carcass? How do you join various parts of the face frame to each other? Face frames are generally assembled as a seperate component. I have used dowels and/or pocket screws to join the rails and stiles together. The assembled faceframe is then attached to the carcass using biscuits and glue. make the faceframe about 1/16 to 1/8" oversize and trim off the access with a flush cutting bit in your router.

Since I have not had any formal training....just doing things the best way I could figure out, I'm always interested to know how those with experience "do things the right way".

Evans

Wayne

zapdafish · 07-31-2009, 12:04 PM

Originally Posted by Gregory Paolini

If you want a little diagram for layout, just let me know.

Sure, I'd love to have a diagram.

I've got some coated deck screws left over from a previous project I can use too. I really did love using them, they go in like butter.

I also took Evans(pirate71) up on his offer to take a look at his cabinets, I'll be dropping by after work tonight with a camera to get some tips.

crokett · 07-31-2009, 12:15 PM

I've built a couple cabinet projects out of MDF, including a drill press stand that I still use. I The only thing to remember about MDF is for horizontal surfaces it doesn't have nearly the strength that ply does. The top to my drill press stand is 2 layers of 3/4 ply. The drawer sides and fronts are MDF but the drawer bottoms are ply also. It is also much heavier than ply so keep that in mind when you are deciding on the sizes for your cabinets.

McRabbet · 07-31-2009, 06:13 PM

Evans,

You've gotten good advice in this thread -- I'm going to add a little that should help. Confirmat Screws are the best fasteners for MDF, but the special bit costs about $20 and the screws cost as much as $20/100. Another good choice (if you do not mind an exposed flat head) are 1/4-20 Connector Bolts and dowel nuts. These will hold very well. I prefer to put a shallow dado (1/8") or rabbet (if at the edge) in one piece and glue the mating 90* piece and then pre-drill and secure with 1-5/8" decking screws. For shelves, remember that MDF does not support much weight without sagging, so be sure to avoid wide spans. The methods above (setting into dadoes) means make it a horizontal partition, which adds strength, but loses you flexibility. I prefer to use 1/4" shelf pins on 1" or 1-1/2" centers set back 1-1/2" from the front or back of the cabinet sides. Now you can adjust the shelves. I built my router table from MDF and it has held up for 10-12 years, but I'm thinking of building a new one using good plywood. All of my base and wall cabinets are made of either solid wood or good maple or birch hardwood plywood (currently $54/sheet at The Hardwood Store in Gibsonville).

Gregory Paolini · 08-01-2009, 08:03 AM

I did a quick sketchup model of a basic euro style wall cabinet, 24" wide, by 30 High. You can download the model at

http://www.gregorypaolini.com/Woodwo...ject_Plans.htm

All the joints are butt joints, except for the back, which is set into a 1/4" groove/dado

With regards to construction & shelfs: Most cabinets are stapled togeather to hold them while screws are installed for strength - this actually is very strong, and accepted by the AWI for all grades of approved cabinets. I usually use 1 5/8" deck screws - They're square drive, and much, much stronger than drywall screws. To meet AWI Premium standards, you must use confirmats

My shelves are adjustable, and are on 1/4 pins, placed on 32mm centers. I don't have a fancy line drill, just a router and a template - see article in current Fine Woodworking, Page 64.

If I do have fixxed shelves, then I may just butt joint and screw, or if I expect a significant load or abuse, I may make a shallow dado.

Face Frames: Almost everyone does pocket screws, including me... I use the pocket jig to attach the face frames to the carcases as well... If I'm doing a furniture grade cabinetry project, I'll do actual joinery - So much of those decisions just come down to project budget, and client preference.

Hope this helps!