Jewelry box sides thickness ????

[DaveO]

OK, I would like opinions and advice. I am planning to work on a jewelry box over the long weekend. In my penny-wise , pound foolish normal mode of operations, I am not using a plan, just a picture.



This is the box style that I am shooting for. The thickness of the sides...3/4", 5/8" or 1/2". I don't want to make it to heavy and thick looking, but I also want it to have some substance and enough glue surface for joinery. BTW, I really wished that I could have gotten that quilted Cherry board for this piece, regular old Cherry seems so plain...but it was half the cost.
Any thoughts on the thickness, pros/cons, or general rules?????
Dave

[sapwood]

Well, I would ask DaveO
He's one of our most expert box makers

Other than that, I would go with 5/8 or 3/4.

Roger

[DaveO]

Hey, I'm only an "expert" because of all the advice I've gotten from this site I agree 1/2" would be too thin, but is 3/4" too thick????
Dave

[PeteM]

I really think it's a matter of personal preference. I just made one from 1/2" walnut (dovetailed not mitered) and it's plenty strong. The box you're looking at is a bit larger so maybe 5/8" tops. To my eye 3/4" is just a bit to heavy on a small box. But, like I said, it's mostly personal preference. That's a pretty box so I'm sure it will look great whichever way you go.

pete

[sapwood]

I think so, but it "hinges" on hardware to some extent. The box shown appears to only need two hinges. If you were adding locks or "arm hinges" you might need the 3/4.

It's a nice looking box, can't wait to see how you execute this one

Roger

[cpowell]

I am not a box expert. I have made 4 boxes. I have used 3/8 thick sides. I don't rely on the glued miter for strength. I put more faith in the splines.

I believe thinner looks more elegant. 3/4 seems appropriate if it will double as a step stool, unless you want the thickness to contrast the dimensions of the inner tray/drawer sides. Given your thickness choices, I'd go 1/2 but you may want to compromise and go 5/8.

Chuck

[bonewood]

Dave:

1/2" is more than enough for one that size:

[sapwood]

Thanks bonewood, you sure convinced me

Roger

[Big Mike]

That box is made by a man and wife who make boxes professionally I believe. Their last name is Bolstadt I think. I have seen their boxes and they use slot hinges for the lids. If you look closely you can see that that is what they used for this box as well. I think they are using 1/2" or less. I have made boxes up to 14 x 18 and never exceeded 5/8" thickness.

[DaveO]

Well, the stock is milled, I went 5/8" thick and it looks right so far. Big Mike, how do those slot hinges work? I haven't figured out my hardware selection yet, and that could be a good option. I've also considered barrel hinges.
Thanks for everybody's advice, it's great to have a think tank like this

Dave

[Big Mike]

Slot hinges work somewhat like a biscuit for joining wood. You have to use a special saw on an arbor mounted in a drill press or router table to cut a slot for the wings of the hinge to fit into. The wings of the hinge are barbed and once you push it into the slot they don't come out. Generally they are pretty light duty. They do come in two sizes. After you cut the slot you also have to cut a little rabbet for relief for the barrel of the hinge. These hinges are suited best for production type operations where you can set up the slot cutter and cut a number of pieces before changing the set up. I have the larger size saw, arbor and hinges. I think Woodcraft still sells them, Rockler may also.

I like barrel hinges but then you have to consider how to keep the lid from flopping too far over when you open the box. For 5/8" stock you would typically use 12mm barrel hinges. You can't go wrong with some Brusso box hinges.....

[bonewood]

Brusso has some real nice hinges that stop at about 105 degrees or so to keep the top from flopping back. If you are going to put a rising tray in the top, Rockler has the hinges you need

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by Big Mike

I like barrel hinges but then you have to consider how to keep the lid from flopping too far over when you open the box. For 5/8" stock you would typically use 12mm barrel hinges. You can't go wrong with some Brusso box hinges.....

The 5mm barrel hinges that I use need a chamfer cut on the outside of the lid and box back to open properly, and that also stops the lid from opening to far. You can go wrong with Brusso hinges..if you're poor and go into debit buying them They are incredible hinges but, man, are they expensive. I think I might look into the 12 or 10mm hinges at Woodcraft.
Thanks Big Mike, I can always count on your info on box making. One day when I grow up I'll be able to make boxes like you
Dave

[D L Ames]

Dave,
From the looks of the initial pic you posted I would agree that the sides appear to be about 5/8" if you compare it to the size of the splines (1/8"?) used on that box. For what its worth.....I make those pistol display boxes out of 1/2" stock and use 10 mm barrel hinges for the lid along with Brusso lid stays to limit the amount the lid opens. As Mike mentioned the 12 mm barrel hinges would work well for the 5/8" stock you are using. I am not sure how you are constructing the top but you may want to bore the 12 mm holes first before you glue the top on and then separate the lid from the box on the tablesaw which will ensure your hinge holes line up perfectly. Just a thought.

D L

[Dutchman]

Dave,
It looks like your model box has a pretty good round on the top outside edge of the box and on the box top where they meet. If you are copying that box closely, this will help make your 5/8 thick sides appear thinner. I would follow suite with a good radius there.