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06-10-2006, 10:57 AM
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#1 |
Name: Chuck City: Rocky Mount State: NC County: Nash Join Date: Nov 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 30 days |
I'm making a box for LOML. 5 Drawers, 5/16 or 3/8 stock (probably poplar sides) with lacewood faces. I know DaveO asked similar questions while planning the box for LOHL and I looked at his finished pics but could not tell what joinery was used. I was considering a dado on the rear and maybe Mike's locking drawer joint on the face. Can I use it on thin stock? I don't want mitered corners.
Should I use 1/4 ply for the bottoms (they get flocked)?
Thanks,
Chuck |  
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06-10-2006, 02:27 PM
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#2 |
Name: Mike City: State: County: Join Date: Aug 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 0.00 over 30 days |
Chuck, the locking drawer joint will work perfectly with 3/8" stock. If you have a flat toothed 1/8" rip blade that is the perfect tool for the joint when using 3/8" stock. Can't wait to see a jewelry box in lacewood. I have some lacewood stock that I have been holding for a jewelry box but I haven't come up with the right idea. | |
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06-10-2006, 07:03 PM
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#3 | | Asst. Webmaster
Senior Moderator
Name: DaveO City: Clayton State: NC County: Johnston Join Date: Aug 2005 Age: 38 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 30 days |
I used mortise and tenon for the drawer fronts, and a rabbeted butt joint for the rear, pinned. I choose the M&T joinery because I wanted the drawer sides to sit in a little from flush with the front so I could plane the drawer fronts to the perfect size to inset in the carcass.
Dave 
__________________   Nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile
Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools. 
Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself" 
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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06-10-2006, 07:51 PM
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#4 |
Name: Chuck City: Rocky Mount State: NC County: Nash Join Date: Nov 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 30 days |
Originally Posted by Big Mike Chuck, the locking drawer joint will work perfectly with 3/8" stock. If you have a flat toothed 1/8" rip blade that is the perfect tool for the joint when using 3/8" stock. Can't wait to see a jewelry box in lacewood. I have some lacewood stock that I have been holding for a jewelry box but I haven't come up with the right idea. Mike, the outer carcass is padauk...The rear panel, top and drawer faces are lacewood, wenge pulls and legs. This is the first box I've attempted along these lines so I'm going to be less critical of myself on construction errors and the finished product. I'm still on the learning curve.
I thought building a jewelry box would be no different than a 7 drawer chest, just scaled down...WRONG!!! It's tricky working with thin exotic hardwoods. I didn't realize how tough it is to get perfect miters on 8 inch wide, 3/8 thick stock. I am making even more screwups than normal! 
Chuck | |
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06-11-2006, 06:40 AM
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#5 |
Name: Mike City: State: County: Join Date: Aug 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 0.00 over 30 days |
Chuck, for boards like that I found that a very accurately set up sled is the answer. I have sleds for my table saw for both cross cuts and miters and I use metal runnners for guides. Check, double check and recheck to make sure your blade is angled correctly and make plenty of test cuts.
Sounds like a beauty of a jewelry box. Can't wait to see it.  | |
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06-11-2006, 10:48 AM
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#6 |
Name: Chris Mathes City: Harrisburg State: NC County: Cabarrus Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 37 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 2.57 over 30 days |
wow...sounds very cool...I can't wait to see pix, too!
Chris | |
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06-13-2006, 01:00 PM
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#7 |
Name: David City: Pittsboro State: NC County: Chatham Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 51 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 3.73 over 30 days |
Originally Posted by cpowell
I thought building a jewelry box would be no different than a 7 drawer chest, just scaled down...WRONG!!! It's tricky working with thin exotic hardwoods. I didn't realize how tough it is to get perfect miters on 8 inch wide, 3/8 thick stock. I am making even more screwups than normal!
Chuck Ever tried a "donkeys ear" a type of shooting board specially designed for wide board mitres as used on this type of project http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...ysearindex.htm
I made one years ago and have produced great results with it
__________________
David
"There is no trouble so great or grave that cannot be much diminished by a nice cup of tea" Bernard-Paul Heroux | |
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06-13-2006, 02:17 PM
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#8 |
Name: Chuck City: Rocky Mount State: NC County: Nash Join Date: Nov 2005 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 7.00 over 30 days |
Originally Posted by DavidF David, I'll be the first to admit I'm not proficient at all on hand planes. I've been cutting the miters on the tablesaw. The biggest problem I've had with tight joints is the wood moving (typically a very slight cup) between the time I dimension the resawn stock and actually glue the pieces up. The "gaps" are quite small but I can see some daylight before glueup.
I have been using heavy masking tape during glue up to mate the faces (Thanks, DL) and the glued joint is decent. Still, I'd like to achieve miter perfection. I have added your link to my "Favorites" and will try to give it a shot on the next box project.
I did actually order a book on making jewelry boxes that I hope will be useful. It's typical for me to not ask for directions until I'm already lost!
Chuck | |
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06-13-2006, 02:25 PM
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#9 |
Name: David City: Pittsboro State: NC County: Chatham Join Date: Oct 2005 Age: 51 Avg Visit Freq/Week
= 3.73 over 30 days |
Mitres really are one of the most difficult sometimes to make right -keep trying....
__________________
David
"There is no trouble so great or grave that cannot be much diminished by a nice cup of tea" Bernard-Paul Heroux | |
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