Installing Mortised Hinges

[rick7938]

Is there a "best" way to install mortised hinges?

I have seen two methods of installing mortised hinges:

1. The leaves of the hinges are mortised into both the door and the frame.

2. The mortise on the frame is deep enough for both leaves of the hinges and the leaf of one hinge is surface mounted on the door.

It would appear that mortising the hinges into both the door and the frame would be stronger, but a little more trouble.

Any incite from anyone?

Thanks for any advice.

[DavidF]

Hi Rick,

Certainly in English woodworking at the higher level it is common to set the hinges in so that there is an unbroken line down the hinge stile of the door or of the frame; instead of the usual broken line caused by setting the hinge in equally into each piece. Having said that; the "un-mortised" side is not flush mounted, but is in fact set in at a taper from the front of the piece to the end of the hinge flap such that it "appears" to be flush mounted, but still has the support of being set into the door. There is a reference to this in Earnest Joyce's wood working "bible"

The "usual" way for general work is to set each hinge equally, but not at full depth so that the hinge does not become "hinge bound". This is when the two faces of the wood touch before the door is fully closed.
Hope that helps.

[dozer]

I might be able to help with this one it's what I do for a living

Alot of it depends on the type of door you are going to hang. If it is a solid wood door then i would definitly mortis the door and the frame as it will add alot of support and keep the door side from having the screws pull out so easy.

If it is a fiberglass or metal door with wood inserts then again i would mortice both sides. I personally alway mortise the door and the frame no matter what material the door or frame is made out of as it makes for a much more even reveal on the side of the door as far as your spacing between the door and both frame sides.

They do make a template jig that you can mount to the door and the frame u can find them for $200 + or you can make a template out of some would so your router will ride on it and cut as deep as 1 side of the hinge flap. Hope this helps.

[Travis Porter]

I am by no means good or a pro at this. Personally, I now do just one side as long as one side gives me the amount of reveal that I am looking for.

[Matt]

I have always mortised both sides.

However, Michael Shelley (mshel) was showing me where you could do just one side. The base of the mortise has to be angled (so the hinge lays flat). Sounded like a good idea and looks good on what he showed me. Also, you only have to cut half as many mortises... I plan to try it on a case I am building that won't require a lot of strength or be subject to frequent opening / closing.

[tom hintz]

I mortise the hinge into both the door and cabinet/face frame. I figured out a way of doing it that made thr process easier and more accurate for me. See the link bedlow for a story on that process.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/hingmortising.html

[Joe Scharle]

This jig from Shopnotes has made hinge mortising really easy for me.


Some extra notes on this in my album.
Joe