Ideas for Shelf and Drawer Support

[cpowell]

I have completed the lower carcass/frame for my gun cabinet project and pics are attached. The upper cab will be built IF I ever get this finished.

Please use your imagination, I don't have a rendering program to sketch my ideas.

The first pic shows the clamped assy - NO glue yet. I'm waiting for a ruling on color so I can stain the end panels. Then I'll glue up and move on.

The second pic shows the left inside area where I will install two drawers. I'm looking for an idea to support the left hand slide. The right side of the drawers will have a divider available to mount the ball bearing slides. On the left hand side, the vertical frame members sit 1/2 inch proud of the solid raised panel.

I figured on using a 2 inch wide x 1/2 thick rail to screw into. I have thought about pocket screws/end grain glueup to the inside of the vertical frames but don't like that option very much. Thought about DT joints but I don't have the confidence to hand cut them on this frame. I've never done them but may try on the drawers. Machine dovetails? I'd have to use my miter gauge with a stop on the router table.

Another option would be to simply screw the slides into the frames. I'd only have the end screws for support. Can the slides handle the load without support along their length?

I could mortise the frame rails and glue in the support rail, pinning with a dowel.

Pic 3 shows the right hand side, which will have a door. I will install a center shelf midway between the top and bottom and will need to support it on the right hand side. The shelf will be 15 inches deep. Same support technique could work on both sides. Ideally I'd like to make the center shelf adjustable over a 3 inch range (4 holes, 1 inch apart).

I will also install a lower shelf across the entire bottom (which is easy).

The previous pieces I've built had ply panels and self made wooden slides and I simply attached the slides to the ply panels. I don't want to use wood slides on this project.

Chuck

[DaveO]

Chuck, I have seen Accuride slides that are designed for face frame mounting and only attach to the face frame and a rear mounting bracket that attaches to the back of the carcass. This isn't a suggestion as to what slide to use but an indication that the slides should be sturdy enough only mounted in the front and rear. You also could use a small wood block, not the full length of the panel, but just a few inches long glued to the panel. Then use one of the elongated screw holes in the slide to attach the slide to it. That would allow side to side movement but offer vertical support for the middle of the slide.
Just a few thoughts

Dave

[Travis Porter]

Originally Posted by cpowell

I figured on using a 2 inch wide x 1/2 thick rail to screw into. I have thought about pocket screws/end grain glueup to the inside of the vertical frames but don't like that option very much.
Chuck

That isn't a bad option. It would work, and I have done it myself in the past. Problem is, your pocket holes will end up being where you need to put a screw for the slides. DAMHIKT

Originally Posted by cpowell

Thought about DT joints but I don't have the confidence to hand cut them on this frame. I've never done them but may try on the drawers. Machine dovetails? I'd have to use my miter gauge with a stop on the router table.
Chuck

Too complex I would think.

Originally Posted by cpowell

Another option would be to simply screw the slides into the frames. I'd only have the end screws for support. Can the slides handle the load without support along their length?
Chuck

I would think not. A screw at the front and back isn't going to give a lot of support IMO.

Originally Posted by cpowell

I could mortise the frame rails and glue in the support rail, pinning with a dowel.
Chuck

You could skip the M&T and just pin it with two 1/4 inch dowels at the front and back.

Originally Posted by cpowell

Pic 3 shows the right hand side, which will have a door. I will install a center shelf midway between the top and bottom and will need to support it on the right hand side. The shelf will be 15 inches deep. Same support technique could work on both sides. Ideally I'd like to make the center shelf adjustable over a 3 inch range (4 holes, 1 inch apart).
Chuck

IMO, you could just drill your shelf pin holes in your side stiles for this. This one seems pretty straight forward.



I think pinning your wood runner/support with dowels or even screwing it to the side stiles makes the most sense. The screws in the slides are kind of puny IMO and I would not want just two (1 in front and 1 in back) holding them. I figure your client is going to put shells and other kinds of stuff that isn't light weight in it, and 2 screws 3/4" long isn't much support.

What length and style of slides are you going to use?

[cpowell]

Travis, Thanks!

"You could skip the M&T and just pin it with two 1/4 inch dowels at the front and back."

That makes sense and I missed it completely. I even have a self centering dowel jig. Just gotta remember to install when I glue/clamp the RP frames!


"IMO, you could just drill your shelf pin holes in your side stiles for this. This one seems pretty straight forward."

I considered that option first because it was easy. I wasn't sure if I needed addl support since the stiles are 14 inches apart. 3/4 thick red oak oughta hold without sagging though. Thanks for validating.


"What length and style of slides are you going to use?"

Whatever will fit in ball bearing full extension slides. I'm gonna dovetail the drawers. I will probably attach the RP drawer faces to the drawer front with screws. Hopefully I'll remember to allow space for the slides when I construct the drawers. It makes a difference. DAMHIKT.

Chuck

[DavidF]

You could set the rail/drawer support into 1/2" deep by 2" high open mortise in the inside (facing the centre of the cabinet) face of the corner posts front and back. No doweling and a simple router job a bit like setting in a hinge only deeper. The rail can be fitted after glue up and you will have a long grain glue line between the rail and the corner post.

[Travis Porter]

That would definitively work.

[cpowell]

Originally Posted by DavidF

You could set the rail/drawer support into 1/2" deep by 2" high open mortise in the inside (facing the centre of the cabinet) face of the corner posts front and back. No doweling and a simple router job a bit like setting in a hinge only deeper. The rail can be fitted after glue up and you will have a long grain glue line between the rail and the corner post.

David, that picture is what I was trying to describe when I mentioned mortising into the frame rail (okay, I guess the leg post is a better description, thanks for correcting my English ). I think I may go that route to avoid complicating the RP glue-up with the dowel approach.

Chuck

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by cpowell

David, that picture is what I was trying to describe when I mentioned mortising into the frame rail (okay, I guess the leg post is a better description, thanks for correcting my English ). I think I may go that route to avoid complicating the RP glue-up with the dowel approach.

Chuck

I guess if one was being pedantic one would have called a frame STILE as it's an upright

[cpowell]

Originally Posted by DavidF

I guess if one was being pedantic one would have called a frame STILE as it's an upright

David, if you continue to use words like "pedantic" then everyone will know you aren't from around here.

Chuck

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by cpowell

David, if you continue to use words like "pedantic" then everyone will know you aren't from around here.

Chuck

Blimey mate! you don't think they've noticed do you??

I try and use words like "One" and "excellent" or "super" just to hold true to my roots

[MikeH]

Originally Posted by DavidF

Blimey mate! you don't think they've noticed do you??

I try and use words like "One" and "excellent" or "super" just to hold true to my roots

I think a few of us have caught on.

[skeeter]

Perfect timing on this posts. I'm putting drawers under a table and was about to ask for advise. Thanks!

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by hpm67

I think a few of us have caught on.

Dam! I've been sussed and I was trying so hard to integrate