I could call and ask Fred...

I could call and ask Fred... · 11-04-2009, 12:27 AM

But I figured I'd ask here so you guys can poke fun at me. I'm not sure what the joint is called but I cut it with a dado stack on the tablesaw, so I guess it's call a dado

. Anyways when joining a case side to a bottom you cut wide groove in the side of the case it's the same width as the thickness as the bottom and you then beat the edge of the bottom into the groove you just cut in the side of the case. I know you don't glue this bad boy, because wood moves and if it ain't allowed to move... well somethings got to give and chances are high the side of the case will split that would not be good...

I usually secure this kind of joint with a length of 3/4 sq wood with over sized screw holes that screw into the side and the bottom and has seemed to work pretty well. But I'm thinking why couldn't a guy take and screw some screws in from the outside of the case side plug the holes with dowels and sand flush? Heck a guy could even get creative and chisel out a square hole and plug it that way to hide the screw hole. maybe even use contrasting wood for the plugs, am I thinking wrong, would this work and still allow the wood to move without splitting?

What other ways are there to join this kind of joint?

Thanks

FredP · 11-04-2009, 07:30 AM

hmmm.... lessee.... you beat it into submission but it still moves? must be a wifeankids joint!

DavidF · 11-04-2009, 11:55 AM

If the shelf and the side are both "real" wood, and the grain runs around the case in the "normal" way, IE Side grain runs up and down, bottom panel grain runs left to right (or right to left

), then you can glue the joint

Jeff Mills · 11-04-2009, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by DavidF

If the shelf and the side are both "real" wood, and the grain runs around the case in the "normal" way, IE Side grain runs up and down, bottom panel grain runs left to right (or right to left), then you can glue the joint

Thanks David, I called Fred and he said the same thing you did

DavidF · 11-04-2009, 02:09 PM

Hope it works out. I always new Fred knew what he was talking about

FredP · 11-04-2009, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by DavidF

Hope it works out. I always new Fred knew what he was talking about

hey now let's not start callin me too smart!

DavidF · 11-04-2009, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by FredP

hey now let's not start callin me too smart!

Sorry Fred, didn't mean to......

Jeff · 11-04-2009, 07:29 PM

Jeff,

Sorry, but I'm conceptually challenged on your question. Do you have a picture or a sketch of the joint to share with us for general information?

Fred and Dave are both good, so you've got good advice there.

Jeff Mills · 11-04-2009, 08:15 PM

Both pieces, solid wood, the same species (Red Oak) - Question: Can I glue this joint? Answer: Yes I can

Partman · 11-04-2009, 08:26 PM

Yes glue, then shoot some brads in it till the glue dries.

I did not say that out loud did I.

Danny

Jeff · 11-05-2009, 10:28 AM

Gotcha! I used the same joint for the bottom shelf on a QS red oak bookcase that I built last spring (QS wood that we cut at Jim's place in Berea). In my case the bottom shelf was 3/4" red oak plywood veneer. To compensate for the plywood thickness the dado was cut undersize (width) and the ply got a small rabbet on the underside to match the dado width. Worked just fine!

DavidF · 11-05-2009, 11:48 AM

Originally Posted by Jeff

Gotcha! I used the same joint for the bottom shelf on a QS red oak bookcase that I built last spring (QS wood that we cut at Jim's place in Berea). In my case the bottom shelf was 3/4" red oak plywood veneer. To compensate for the plywood thickness the dado was cut undersize (width) and the ply got a small rabbet on the underside to match the dado width. Worked just fine!

With plywood for the shelf and solid wood for the side, this would be one of the cases where you would NOT glue the whole length of the shelf. Just the front 2" and leave the rest to float, remembering to leave a small gap between the back of the shelf and the cabinet back to give clearance for the sides to shrink

Jeff · 11-05-2009, 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by DavidF

With plywood for the shelf and solid wood for the side, this would be one of the cases where you would NOT glue the whole length of the shelf. Just the front 2" and leave the rest to float, remembering to leave a small gap between the back of the shelf and the cabinet back to give clearance for the sides to shrink

David,

Thanks for the tip. I guess the reasoning is that the ply will not expand/contract, but the solid wood sides need to be free to move as needed. I don't remember if I glued all or part of the shelf in the dado (maybe none of it because it was a pretty good fit). Thanks again.

I hope that Jeff Mills and others can use the info to their benefit for their projects.

DavidF · 11-06-2009, 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by Jeff

David,

Thanks for the tip. I guess the reasoning is that the ply will not expand/contract, but the solid wood sides need to be free to move as needed. I don't remember if I glued all or part of the shelf in the dado (maybe none of it because it was a pretty good fit). Thanks again.
I hope that Jeff Mills and others can use the info to their benefit for their projects.

That's exactly right.