Help with my workbench

Help with my workbench · 04-02-2006, 11:23 PM

I was very fortunate that my Uncle gave me an old table he has had for years. It is 84" x 36" x 1 3/4" thick solid maple. As it is now it is way too low for me as a woodworking workbench and I am vertically challenged. My call for help is, should I scrap the whole base and legs and build a trestle base up to the height needed? Or should I leave the base as is and build some trestle feet for the existing legs? The wood you see beside the bench in one of the pics is for the bench overhaul. My plans are to band the sides with 4/4 Lyptus and use 8/4 hard maple for the ends. I think if I can get Woodguy to help me hand cut dovetails in that Lyptus it sure would look good in the maple. I also plan to put a Veritas twin screw end vise on one end and a standard front vise on one of the sides. I also need to know what is the best method to cut or drill bench dog holes. As you can see I have many questions and I am calling on everyone here with there experience to point me in the right direction. Thanks

Marty

http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/file...WORKBENCH1.jpg
http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/file...WORKBENCH2.jpg
http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/file...WORKBENCH3.jpg

DaveO · 04-02-2006, 11:48 PM

To raise the bench, depends on how much you need it lifted. A little, I would say to add to the existing legs, a lot, then build a new support assembly. I have heard of people having good success with drilling dog holes with either a plunge router and finishing with a Forstner bit, or using one of the hand-held drill guide systems. I had one of those before I bought a real drillpress and they are pretty accurate. Good luck and keep us posted on how you manage everything.
Dave

Ozzie-x · 04-02-2006, 11:49 PM

Nice looking "table/bench". The top looks nice and heavy, but the legs/aprons are probably not conducive to a work bench. I would probably take the top off and make a base for it. The final height should be such that when you stand straight and fully extend your arm, you can lay your hand flat on the work bench top. That's supposedly the correct comfortable working height and has always worked for me. Since the top is maple, you may want to continue with maple. How hard is lyptus, I've never used it? There's bunches of classic bench designs, with various features and many are tailored toward specific tasks like a lot of hand planing. I've always prefered a bench with drawers and storage underneath because good storage is essential plus it's really handy to have all of your measuring tools, chisels, etc, right there at the bench where you do most of your work. I guess this style of bench is more like a model makers bench. My present bench has separate drawers for measuring, chisels, smooth planes, specialty planes, and double doors at one end where I store jointer planes, combination planes, McRabbett planes, etc. Just my $0.02.

NCPete · 04-02-2006, 11:55 PM

Marty, I am a little shocked that no one has said the obvious. Nice table. Why not use in the DR?

BTW, You suck! (for the free bench gloat!

)

MLB3164 · 04-03-2006, 12:30 AM

Peter that is all that would be in my dining room if I used this table. It is a great table but it is destined to live it's life out as my workbench.

NCPete · 04-03-2006, 12:51 AM

good luck with that. I have seen benches like that one with round dog holes formed with a router.

4yanks · 04-03-2006, 08:07 AM

As others have said I would replace the base with something more rigid. The trestle design you mentioned would work. As to the height Ozzie-x already stated the classic method for determining height. However, you may have other needs. I prefer Ozzie-x's method for me, but I do a lot of hand tool work. If your work is done primarily with power tools you may wish to build it higher. If you use a mix of tools. Build it to the classic height and use and auxiliary table for power tools.