Harvest table

[DavidF]

I would never have believed that was pine until the last picture! great colour, how did you achieve such perfection???

May be just summarise it to Bas and he can write a book......

[mshel]

In answer to some questions,

The finish schedule was:

1. Seal all surfaces (2 coats) This is to prevent the stain from getting soaked into the softer wood thus causing the grain to be very prominent.

2. Apply Burnt Umber stain to all surfaces (light coat, just to get some color on the wood).

3. Seal all surfaces again and when dry, lightly sand all surfaces to remove any nibs, etc.

4. Apply stain again to all surfaces to get a richer color.

5. Seal all surfaces again and when dry, sand to remove any nibs, etc.

6. Apply lacquer to all surfaces ( 2 coats)

I mixed in some orange tint with my lacquer just to give it some pop. I was really hesitant but that is what the customer ordered so I just added a little. I really didn't want to mess up the finish and a little went a long way. I could tell the difference after putting the lacquer on and it did give a touch of pizzazz ( yea right).

Breadboard ends:

I used a router to make a tenon ~ 1/2" thick on both ends of the top, centered on the thickness. The tenon was 2" long.

I then marked out 4 tongues spaced across the width of the end of the table. I also marked a line across the tenon 1/2" from the shoulder. This represents the stub tenon. I placed two of the tongues approx. 2" from the sides and spaced two others towards the middle.
Using a jigsaw I cut out the waste on the ends and in between the tongues, leaving the stub line intact.

I selected two pieces of pine from the leftovers and made a dado on one side of both pieces which will mate with the stub tenon on the table top end. I made these pieces over length and cut to length after attaching them.

Holding the breadboard piece against the end of the top, I marked the location of the tongues on the board which is where the mortise will be cut. Note: To allow for expansion, I enlarged these marks 3/8" on both sides of the tongues.

I setup my mortise machine and cut a mortise for all the tongues per the layout lines. Some fitting was necessary using my rabbet block plane on the tongues and the stub tenon.

I slipped the BBE on and decided where I would drill the peg holes. I removed the BBE and drilled the holes ( some guys only drill through one side and half way through the other side but I decided to go all the way through on all the holes.) I put the BBE back in place and using the drill bit, I marked the hole location on all the tongues, removed the BBE and marked a point ~ 1/16" towards the shoulder on all of the marks made by the drill point. (Basic drawbore technique) Drilled the holes in the tongues and using a rat tail file, I elongated the two outside holes laterally to allow for expansion and contraction.

I cut some 5/16" x 5/16" pieces out of some very tight grained lighter pine to use for the pins. I trimmed one end round on each peg. This is so the pin will clear the hole drilled in the tongue.

I put some glue in the two center mortises only. The outside edges were left dry. (Expansion & contraction) Put the BBE back on and pounded the pins home and trimmed the excess off.

Sorry this was so long but it's hard to tell how to do this in 20 words or less, at least for me.


Hope this helps.

Mike

[Glennbear]

Thanks for the concise explanations Michael

[Canuck]

WOW Mike; I didn't realize this amount of detail went into breadboard end's!

Sounds to me like you have conquered any issues with expansion in that level of detail. (Just hope that the new owner of the table realizes your close attention to detail!)

Thanks for a good detailed explanation as how to complete a BB end successfully! (I know that I will keep this thread in mind, if I ever try to do one!!) I read and re-read this post a couple of times to ensure I understood the methodology.

Thanks Mike!!!

Wayne

[Mike Callihan]

Michael

Thank you for the finish schedule. I suspected that you had sealed the wood well before staining. Your finish is uniform and blotch free. Again great job.

Mike

[toolferone]

Mike as others have said, the table is beautiful. The color is deep and warm. It begs to be touched. I wish I could have. I was surprised when you said you marked the peg holes 1/16" over. That seems like a lot to me. I know thagt the pine is softer. When I did my BBE on a hard maple table. I only went a 1/32" and was worried about that. I also draw bored on my work bench legs in soft maple and also only went a 1/32". Who am I to argue, we can see it worked for you . Did you finish the bottom of the top the same way?

Once again. it IS a beautiful table.

[mshel]

Originally Posted by toolferone

Mike as others have said, the table is beautiful. The color is deep and warm. It begs to be touched. I wish I could have. I was surprised when you said you marked the peg holes 1/16" over. That seems like a lot to me. I know thagt the pine is softer. When I did my BBE on a hard maple table. I only went a 1/32" and was worried about that. I also draw bored on my work bench legs in soft maple and also only went a 1/32". Who am I to argue, we can see it worked for you . Did you finish the bottom of the top the same way?

Once again. it IS a beautiful table.

Yea, 1/16" is pushing it but I crammed a steel draw pin in to deform the wood somewhat before I put the pins in. The bottom was finished the same as the top.


Mike

[skeeter]

Thats one awesome looking table, and pretty big too. I really like the pine.

[sawduster]

Simply amazing !!

[b4man]

Mike,
Your work never disappoints! I too love pine and you really brought out the beauty in the wood.