Hanging A Wall hung Corner Shelf?

gator · 01-08-2006, 11:15 AM

How do you hang a wall hung corner shelf. I don't want to use the two loops, one on the top of each side, but want something hidden. I want the shelf to be flush to the walls on either side, something like when you use a keyhole bit. With a keyhole bit, one side goes over the screw head but the other side is too far away from the wall to hook. Suggestions?

George

SteveColes · 01-08-2006, 11:27 AM

George, could you show a picture of what it is you are trying to hang?

gator · 01-08-2006, 11:38 AM

Not built yet, in the planning stages. It will have 90° backs about 3' tall with three shelves. I could use hanging loops coming out ot the top about an inch from corner on each side but then the loops and nails/screws show. If you put a keyhole slot in both backs , say 8" from the corner, and push the unit into the corner, the keyhole is about ¼"-½" shy of the screw heads on each side. If you hook one of the keyholes over it's screw head then the other side is about ½" from the wall. I'm trying to get a flush fit into the corner without hanging hardware showing.

George

SteveColes · 01-08-2006, 11:58 AM

Well, I would be tempted to drill through to the studs. At a corner, there will be a stud at each side of the corner. Perhaps you could find the right size screw with a decorative head. Or countersink and use one or two of the mushroom caps to conceal the the screw head? I think it would be possible, either way to make the mounting holes a "design feature"

cpowell · 01-08-2006, 12:45 PM

Depending on how wide the "backs" will be, if wide enough to span to the next stud, you could hang it on french cleats. If it's not too heavy you could get by with 1/2 inch ply for the cleats, 3/4 ply will hang the world. Cleat near top and bottom. These would be hidden and VERY strong and very easy to install.

McRabbet · 01-08-2006, 01:41 PM

I agree with Chuck (cpowell) on his suggestion for using french cleats. They are easy to implement (you may need a 'false" back) and are very sturdy. Check out this link for more info: http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html

Rob

SteveColes · 01-08-2006, 02:39 PM

I don't see how that would keep it flush with the wall

gator · 01-08-2006, 02:45 PM

Thanks for the replies. I think I will start with Mike Davis' idea and expand it a little. I'll use a keyhole bit and then enlarge the entry of the keyhole to 1" with a forstner bit. I think that this way I can get both screw heads in the holes and then push the shelf unit into the corner and let it slip down the slots. I'm gooing to give it a try on scrap before cutting the backs of the shelves.

The french cleats which some suggested would work except I wanted to keep the backs to 3/4" and a false back would make it 1¼"-1½" thick.

George

mshel · 01-08-2006, 04:35 PM

George,

Don't know if it would be possible though it seems viable to cut part of the french cleat of sorts into the back panel using a straight bit and a dovetail bit to get the hook at the top and then make a receiver piece that would be screwed to the wall and would accept the 1/2 dovetail slotted back. You did say that the back was going to be 3/4" right? You could make the groove in the back 1/2" deep and there would still be enough mass to hold the back in tact. I think it would work but might need to be tried out on scrap b4 going to the real stuff. Just a thought.

Mike

D L Ames · 01-08-2006, 08:56 PM

I think I would go with the French cleat type hanger and use the modification that mshel described.

D L

angler240 · 01-08-2006, 08:56 PM

If you insert a finishing screw into the dead corner at a upward angle of 45 degrees and drill a corrosponding hole in the rear of the project. Within weight limitations goverened by studs, screw size, etc. not only will the fastener be blind, but the project is forced by its own weight to hug the wall tite with no movement.

think about it

paul

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