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Old 01-26-2006, 12:50 AM   #1
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I have made the parts to my NYW style router table. It's 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF topped with a piece of phenolic impregnated Baltic Birch ply. Should I glue the top to the cabinet so I will know that it won't move. Or just screw it to the cabinet in case I need to remove it later. I don't have tremendous amounts of work in the cabinet, and I have planned/designed it to be a tool that I will have for a very long time. Could I run into a big if I glue it down????
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

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Old 01-26-2006, 12:53 AM   #2
 
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Neither. Screw some blocks under the edge of the top (along the edge of the cabinet), and let gravity hold the top down.
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Old 01-26-2006, 01:01 AM   #3
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That's a dang good idea. But I will take it one step farther and glue the blocks to the inside to fit into the opening I have made in the top of the cabinet. That way nothing will be on the edges to obstruct any clamping I might do and it might look prettier. Thanks Insom. for great advice.

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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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Old 01-26-2006, 01:26 AM   #4
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Dave, I put blocks inside of my cabinet, but did screw through them into the top, too -- didn't want the top to tilt when in use, but it is still removable. Also recommend you seal the underside of the top, too -- At least, give it 2 coats of shellac-based primer to seal out moisture. MDF is like a sponge for moisture and it will insure it stays flat.

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Old 01-26-2006, 09:43 AM   #5
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I am sealing it, I am using just regular amber shellac #2 cut, that should work as well? Good point about tipping, I think a few screws for safety would smart.
Dave
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:00 AM   #6
 
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I vote for using screws to secure the top also, but if the screws are removed a few times the holes in the MDF tend to enlarge. Where did you get the phenolic impregnated Baltic Birch ply for the top? I have never heard of this product. I am also (slowly) building a mobile router cabinet and looking at options for the top. Could you post a photo of the top?
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:04 AM   #7
 
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I appreciate this thread.

I was concerned about the top tipping as well, but Uncle Norm had just suggested the blocks to hold it in place. I'm thinking of adding four table top "Z"s to hold it in place, yet still allow it's removal. What is your opinion of that method?
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:09 AM   #8
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The phenolic ply came from Woodcraft, I will post some pictures when I get to a better viewing stage.

The Z clips are another excellent idea, that would prevent the screws from wallerin' out the holes in the MDF.
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:25 PM   #9
 
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Okay, what are Z clips?
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:34 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Splinter
Okay, what are Z clips?
They are z-shaped metal clips for fastening table tops to rails or cabinets -- here's an example from Lee Valley's Hardware Catalog.

Rob
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:36 PM   #11
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Pieces of metal that can be screwed to the underside of something like a table top and the other end is inserted into a groove in the table apron. Generally used to allow wood movement in the top but prevent it from falling off.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784


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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:48 PM   #12
 
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Thanks guys. After I saw examples, I realized I knew what they were but didn't know they were called Z clips. Sure is nice to be able to ask dumb questions and not get some "smart a##" answer. This really is a great forum.
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:45 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Splinter
Sure is nice to be able to ask dumb questions and not get some "smart a##" answer. This really is a great forum.
I certainly wouldn't want to imply that your's was a dumb question, I had to do a quick internet search myself before I called them that in my original post. However, I absolutely echo your comments about not getting "smart a##" answers!! That is what makes this forum so great. I'm sure that may be what some of the members have thougth about some of my questions... but the actual replies have always been very informative and "kind"
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