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Old 08-10-2007, 11:06 PM   #1
Fence Gate
 
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nelsone nelsone is offline 08-10-2007, 11:06 PM

I have someone that wants me to build a fence for him and he wants a driveway gate with an opener installed. My question is regarding the construction of the gate. How would you go about building this to make it strong enough?

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Old 08-10-2007, 11:22 PM   #2
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Re: Fence Gate

At 5' x 5'9" your not talking about a very large gate panel if you go with a double opening sytem and two panels. I would make the frame (shown in brown in your drawing) M&T with the cross bracing mitered in under compression. Then I would make the panels (lighter tan areas) let into grooves in the frame, floating. I would think that doing that would add considerable strength by keeping everything under compression. The trick would be to keep a nice grain match across each panel so the horizonal boards would look like the were continous.
Also you should choose your opening sytem before building the gates to make sure that you have an attachment point for it in the proper location.
Look up Apollo gate systems for a real good opener mechanism, we use it on our 14' wide deer fence gates, and I haven't had any problems with them yet. They come as solar or line voltage power depending on your location.
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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:58 PM   #3
 
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Re: Fence Gate

Thanks guys. The horizontal slats are going to be spaced about 3/4", but I think, if I inset them in the gate frame, I should be fine. I wasn't sure if I would need to add any steel to support them.

Dave, I've found a pretty good price on PT lumber. How much problem do you think I'll have with warping and twisting if I use the PT for the horizontal slats? I plan to put the cup toward the posts.
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Old 08-11-2007, 12:59 AM   #4
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Re: Fence Gate

Originally Posted by nelsone View Post

Dave, I've found a pretty good price on PT lumber. How much problem do you think I'll have with warping and twisting if I use the PT for the horizontal slats? I plan to put the cup toward the posts.
I would spend the extra to get it Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT). Regular PT lumber straight from the treatment facility is going to have about a 100%+ MC and will shrink, twist, check, cup, warp and otherwise become unsatisfactory as it dries and reaches its EMC. It makes no difference which way you face the growth rings, the wood will respond to any differential in drying by cupping toward that side. KDAT is generally re-dried to around 19/15% MC, and would be much more stable in an outdoor environment, plus it is generally a better grade of lumber (#1) than normal PT stock (often
#2). Either that or purchase your stock well ahead of time and allow it is air dry until it reaches its EMC.

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Honestly Honey, that will cost around $100 $150 $200, and I need a few more tools.

Heard from a client..."If I had your tools and experience...I could do it myself"

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
--Dr. Seuss
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