Everyone favorite wood glue

[taandctran]

I was woundering what everyone's favorite wood glue was. I use Titebond III for most of my projects and gorilla glue for cocobolo, african blackwood ect.. just want to know yalls' opinion

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by mshel

* Mohawk Super Resin Glue for most anything
* Old Brown Glue ( hide glue made by Patrick Edwards in Ca.) for use on antiques
*Gorilla Glue for anything outside or near moisture
*Epoxy for hard to glue things
* CA for quick grip apps


Just my drip on things

Mike

Generally TB II, but what's the Mohawk Super Resin Steve?

[SkintKnuckle]

I was wondering about the Mohawk Super Resin Glue myself, I've never heard of it. Soooo, I did a Google search, and it shows a Mohawk Super Grip Glue. Their Techncial Bulletin lists it as no VOC, but when you read down on the next page it states that it releases flammable vapors! There was an msds available and is describes it a a polyvinyl acetate emulsion, which could be equivalent to a lot of things. I'll do a few inquiries with some contacts I have and will get back to the group on it.

[mshel]

Originally Posted by DavidF

Generally TB II, but what's the Mohawk Super Resin Steve?

David,

Here ya go http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=261

MIke

[Oakwood]

Steve D reports "glue line creep" on exposed glue lines. This situation is usually caused by one of two things. The first is machining the glued up joint to quickly after gluing. If the glue line is machined to soon the wood adjacent to the glue line is still saturated with water and the wood swollen. If you plane the surface at this point you smooth the swollen wood and then in a day or two the the wood shrinks after the water has disapated and you get a sunken joint which looks very much like an open joint or glue line creep.
The second cause is gluing boards of differing moisture content. For example if you glue a 12% moisture board to a 5% moisture board, over time both boards will reach equilibrium moisture lets say 8%. This means that the 12% board has shrunk and the 5% board has swollen and you get a condition called planking where the glue line looks open or appears to show creep. In Fact the two boards you have glued up have changed dimension.
Generally you should wait at least 24 hrs before surfacing a glued up panel. The wait may be longer if the amibient humidity is high. The only cure for planking is to be careful that the stock you glue has fairly uniform moisture content (Within 2%).
John

[NCPete]

Thanks John, that is good stuff to know about creep, and how to prevent it.

[DavidF]

Good stuff Oakwood, never gave those two things a thought; will now though.

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by mshel

David,

Here ya go http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=261

MIke

Just went there -thanks Mike, looks like a good glue, but they don't mention the open time, just the clamp time of 30 mins. Plus the EXPLOSIVE! warning! but the invisable glue line bit looks good

[mshel]

Originally Posted by DavidF

Just went there -thanks Mike, looks like a good glue, but they don't mention the open time, just the clamp time of 30 mins. Plus the EXPLOSIVE! warning! but the invisable glue line bit looks good

David,

I have been using this glue exclusively for many many years with no problems at all. Guess I should have read the warning label more closely, didn't know it was explosive. I have used it around open flame repeatedly and I would think I would have to use gallons at one time to produce enough vapors to create a problem. I may have to find an alternative cause it is getting expensive, $28 per gallon plus a hazardous chemical shipping fee ($20.00) What a crock. Oh well, everything that tastes good, smells good or feels good is getting so expensive we might as well just throw up our hands and say " I give".

MIke

[Matt]

Titebond II

[D L Ames]

Originally Posted by mshel

David,

I have been using this glue exclusively for many many years with no problems at all. Guess I should have read the warning label more closely, didn't know it was explosive. I have used it around open flame repeatedly and I would think I would have to use gallons at one time to produce enough vapors to create a problem. I may have to find an alternative cause it is getting expensive, $28 per gallon plus a hazardous chemical shipping fee ($20.00) What a crock. Oh well, everything that tastes good, smells good or feels good is getting so expensive we might as well just throw up our hands and say " I give".

MIke

Mike, have you ever found a local source for it to avoid the shipping fee?

D L

Originally Posted by DavidF

Just went there -thanks Mike, looks like a good glue, but they don't mention the open time, just the clamp time of 30 mins. Plus the EXPLOSIVE! warning! but the invisable glue line bit looks good

Hey what fun is the shop if you don't have some EXPLOSIVE stuff in it?

[mshel]

Originally Posted by D L Ames

Mike, have you ever found a local source for it to avoid the shipping fee?

D L

No unfortunately I haven't. I normally buy it directly from Mohawk. I can get Klingspoor to order it but I don't save any money by doing that. I called them Wed. and their price is $48.00. I tried a glue made in Australia called Roo Glue and it seemed to work pretty good. A lot cheaper than the Mohawk but still have to order it from a distributor. Woodcraft carries the Roo Clear which is made by the same company but not the stuff I got. I got it from their website as a trial sample and still have a little left. I might just give it another try and if it compares favorably to the Mohawk I might order a gallon. Will let you know.
Mike

[clowman]

I use mainly TB II... and more recently CA glue for my pens... lots of CA glue.