Cutting Sheet goods

procraft · 03-20-2006, 10:34 PM

I got a deal on some 5X9 melemine panels that I will be building several kitchenetts for a hotel with, As usual I can't decide on the best method for cutting the panels.

My question is, how do most small shop operators cut large panels? Seems I try a different method each time I build. I cannot seem to get the accuracy I want.

michaelgarner · 03-20-2006, 10:38 PM

build a panel saw bro, I am in the process, I can hook you up with the plans for a wall mounted one. Just PM me your address. all I ask is to kick back the shipping. Be blessed bro.

procraft · 03-20-2006, 10:43 PM

Thanks Micheal, I am really enjoying the Lathe I got from you by the way,
I guess I am asking the best rail and guide system people use, I don't really need or have the room for a panel saw, plus I do alot of work on location, Be Blessed sir.

DaveO · 03-20-2006, 10:49 PM

I cut my sheet goods on a piece of foam insulation on the floor. I cut about a 1/4" over size with a cic. saw and then trim everything flat/straight on the tablesaw. I can cut full 4 x 8 sheets on my tablesaw, but I find that to be easier. Make sure to score the Melamine to prevent any chipping DAMHIKT

Dave

Bernhard · 03-20-2006, 10:53 PM

Originally Posted by procraft

I got a deal on some 5X9 melemine panels .....

I use a sliding table saw with a scoring blade. A friend of mine uses a festool plungecut saw with a rail with excellent results.
BUT what I really like to know: Where did you get the melamine sheets?
Bernhard

junquecol · 03-20-2006, 10:54 PM

It is hard to beat a homemade one using 1/4 hardboard and a 1/2X3 piece of ply for a guide. A real tip is to double stick tape a piece of hardboard to base plate that hangs off guide. This will help prevent chip out. The best saw I have ever found is a B&D Super Sawcat. It is the same saw as Dewalt's top of line saw. The motor body is adjustable to make blade parrallel to edge of base.

procraft · 03-20-2006, 11:03 PM

There is a place in Angier, Surrells salvage, He has several colors and some with woodgrain printed on it, 5X9 for 17.00 ea
I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

Bernhard · 03-20-2006, 11:21 PM

Originally Posted by procraft

There is a place in Angier, Surrells salvage, He has several colors and some with woodgrain printed on it, 5X9 for 17.00 ea
I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

Thank you! I'll guess I need to make aroad trip to Angier!

Bernhard

DaveO · 03-20-2006, 11:21 PM

Originally Posted by procraft

I also bought some MDF thats 1 1/2" thick for 12.00 ea.

Dang how much did that weigh

Nice gloat BTW

Dave

Steve D · 03-20-2006, 11:26 PM

Accuracy on sheet goods with a circular saw is extremely difficult without something like the festool. Cutting oversize and moving to the tablesaw has worked best for me. You will want a really good blade to avoid chipout on melamine and a zero clearance insert. I was able to cut all of the stuff I used recently with no chipout without scoring. That was with a 80 tooth high ATB blade and it did a beautiful job.

Travis Porter · 03-21-2006, 08:59 AM

I fight with them on the tablesaw, but that is a PITA. Sometimes I rough cut with home made cutting guides, but as others have noted you need a good saw. The Festool is supposed to be the cream of the crop, but it is expensive. I have heard good feedback on Eurekazone, but haven't used it.

McRabbet · 03-21-2006, 12:48 PM

Generally, I cut sheet stock on my lumber rack -- outside face of which leans back about 5 degrees and sheet sits 6" off floor. I clamp on my 50" Tru-Grip straightedge or my 8' long Johnson straight edge to guide my skilsaw with a thin kerf Freud blade in it. I usually tape both faces on cut line to avoid tearout. Works for me -- then I finish cut on my Grizzly wide-body table saw (G1023SLX).

Rob

charlie s · 03-21-2006, 01:28 PM

I back the truck up to my sawhorses, slide the sheet off onto them and get out the Festool saw with guide. Dead accurate, no splintering, fast and very easy to use, not to mention safer than wrestling a 4 x 8 sheet onto the table saw by yourself. Makes working with plywood a breeze. Now if I could just come up with the justification to buy their sander....

DavidF · 03-21-2006, 01:35 PM

9 times out of 10 I get the supplier; HD, lowes, etc to down size it for me first then I deal with it on the tablesaw

MarkW · 03-21-2006, 03:59 PM

I also place a sheet of foam insulation on my table and set my circular saw to 1/4" deeper than the material I'm cutting. The foam does act as a backer board in my experience but for fine cuts you want a really good blade.
I do use a product call ACCU-Rip. http://www.accurip.com/. Once I got this set-up I do not even bother to take the cuts to the table saw. Its dead on. The only problem is its only 24 measured inches. Over that I cut it close and use the table-saw.

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