Cutting Melamine Particle Board

Cutting Melamine Particle Board · 03-21-2006, 03:37 PM

Hi,

I am in the process of trying to jury rig a potable outfeed table with the top made from 3/4" melamine particle board and was wondering about the best way to cut it with minimal chipping. I just have a 40-tooth combo blade in my table saw and was wondering if that combined with scoring and some painters masking tape would work? Or. Should I set up a straight bit in my router?

I have never really used the stuff, use it very much and therefore don't really want to invest in a new tablesaw blade if I can possibly avoid it.

I did a search on our site, but couldn't see and existing threads referring to my question.

You help as always would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Wayne

DaveO · 03-21-2006, 04:21 PM

I have had very good results with the scoring method. SteveD mentioned recently that he used an 80 tooth blade and didn't bother with the scoring cut. But if you don't want another tablesaw blade, then just set you fence for the size piece, raise your blade 1/16-1/8" make your scoring cut on the face side, and then cut all the way through.
I made my outfeed table out of Melamine and I love it, slick as snot, and glue doesn't stick to it (mine doubles as a assembly table). Make sure to edge the Melamine with a nice hardwood band, it is fragile stuff.
Dave

Steve D · 03-21-2006, 05:19 PM

Wayne,

The bottom side is where you will have the most tendency to chip. As Dave said, a light scoring cut first, then raise the blade and cut all the way through. If you have a zero clearance insert, that also helps. If not, they are easy to make. Take a piece of hardwood, plane it to the same thikness as your stock insert. Double stick tape the hardwood to your stock insert and use a patern bit in your router to make a duplicate. put a small pin in the front of the new insert in the same location as the nub on your existing insert (finish nail clipped for length). Lower your blade all the way, put the new insert in, start the saw and slowly raise the blade until it cuts through creating an opening.

The pin in the front is important, it keeps the blade from lifting the insert and throwing it at you.

DaveO · 03-21-2006, 05:24 PM

I'd like to add to the ZCI making process, when you go to raise the blade through the ZCI throw a long piece of scrap over it and clamp it to the table saw top. I hate to have anything come flying loose.

Dave

The pin that SteveD mentions probably will do the trick, but better safe than sorry.

Canuck · 03-21-2006, 07:34 PM

Thanks loads guys on both fronts (melamine cutting and the ZCI insert)!

I will give it a whirl tomorrow, likley!

Thanks again,

Wayne

clowman · 03-21-2006, 08:55 PM

FWIW, I just ran the piece through... I have a ZCI, and a Forrest WWII blade. I didn't have a problem.

Travis Porter · 03-21-2006, 11:05 PM

I didn't know that about the pin. Good info.

NCPete · 03-22-2006, 08:24 AM

Originally Posted by Canuk

rig a potable outfeed table

Wayne, why would you want to be able to drink your outfeed table???

Canuck · 03-23-2006, 05:52 PM

Well...Here is the result of my efforts to cut the melamine. It didn't chip too badly! I first scored the cut line to about 1/8" depth on both sides, cranked up the blade and finished off the cuts. (It did chip where I had countersink screw holes and had to back out the screws during the assembly, but that wasn't a cutting problem!) That stuff sure is fragile! The outfeed table may not look good, but it sure is functional and that was what I was lookin' for. Thanks again guys for all of your suggestions. (Still need to try and make my own ZCI though!)

Thanks once more!!!!!!!!!

Wayne

DaveO · 03-23-2006, 06:19 PM

Looks good to me

You even took the time to paint the edge banding..classy!!!
Dave

sapwood · 03-23-2006, 06:38 PM

Wayne, looks good to me too!

How long is it? Appears capable of handling a 4x8

Sapwood

Canuck · 03-23-2006, 07:07 PM

It is only about 38" long and 24" wide, Roger. Coupled with the tablesaw depth of 24"; should be enough for the kind of stuff I do. (I have never wrestled with a piece of 3/4 - 4x8 plywood on that little saw. Just have the BORG slice it a couple of times for me. That way, it will for into the little S10 PU ok.)

Thanks,

Wayne

Travis Porter · 03-23-2006, 09:19 PM

Looks extremely good to me. I barely put BLO on shop stuff (need to do better about that).

D L Ames · 03-23-2006, 11:51 PM

Great looking design Wayne.

That turned out nicely.

D L

erasmussen · 03-24-2006, 02:05 AM

Looks darn good to me.
And it will sure get the job done.