Cutting drawer openings

farmerbw · 07-30-2008, 11:19 PM

Was wondering what the best way to cut drawer openings from solid stock is. I'm going to attempt to build my first complete small (40lx30wx21h) coffee table and am trying to get an idea for what I'm going to be getting myself into and what tools or tool accessories may be required. I've got a PC circular saw, a decent (I think) Skil router, a so so jigsaw that I've almost replaced several times, and a Delta 10" table saw.

Top is 3/4 BB, table skirt is going to be 13/16 poplar and legs are going to be lodge pole pine logs.

My question is, what is the best way to cut the drawer opening in the front skirt? Can I mark it out, drill the corners and cut with a jigsaw or would my best bet be using a router and some type of template? I'm sure the router method would probably come out cleaner, but my problem with that is my present router doesn't accept guide bushings without a proprietary adapter which I might not be able to get in time to do me any good. Not to mention the couple of places I've found that have it are charging $10 and up to ship the $2-3 part

Also, if I use a 4" high drawer should I shot for a minimum skirt height of say 5.5 or 6"?

TIA,
Brian.

McRabbet · 07-30-2008, 11:31 PM

The straightest and most accurate drawer cutout is made by selecting a board at least 1/4" wider than your finished size for the full apron and ripping the stock carefully to remove a section the exact height of your desired opening (the apron is now in three pieces). Then crosscut the center of those pieces to remove the drawer opening and glue the apron stock back together. This works even with figured wood as the glue joint causes a minimal offset. Remember to trim the apron to the final width if you started extra wide.

DaveO · 07-30-2008, 11:44 PM

Yep, I would 100% agree with Rob. That is the method I used to make the apron and drawer face on this table -

The only gotcha is to make sure that you allow for the saw kerf in your sizing of the original board. I would add at least ¼" to the width and ½" to the length. It is always easier to trim or plane it down to size later.

Dave

farmerbw · 07-30-2008, 11:47 PM

Rob, thanks for the response.

I can picture what you're describing and it does sound like it would produce great results if done properly. I'm a little worried though that the "additional" steps may be a bit above my current skill set and provide more opportunities for me to muck up and create scrap instead of an apron!

Brian.

farmerbw · 07-30-2008, 11:51 PM

Dave, thanks for the reply as well. Looks like I was typing away while you were responding as well!!

That's a very nice job on that table and I can certainly see what Rob meant by not being able to tell it was done that way. Maybe I can pull it off without sacrificing too much good wood since I only plan on doing 1 drawer. Definitely food for thought.

Thanks guys,
Brian.

DaveO · 07-31-2008, 12:05 AM

Brian if your tablesaw or bandsaw is well tuned you should be able to cut a good glue line and not lose anything but the saw kerf. Even if not a few swipes with a plane or a run across the jointer will clean that up and you will still have a nice reveal on the long grain. The reveal for the sides of the drawer front can be adjusted by moving the corresponding apron sides a little to avoid dealing with the end grain fitting.
It's as easy as ripping and cross cutting a board.

Dave

nelsone · 07-31-2008, 12:13 AM

I think your least opportunity for error is the way Dave and Rob described. Trying a cutout with a jigsaw will really be tough to get a straight line.

Bigdog72 · 07-31-2008, 08:52 AM

Creating scrap is how we learn!!!

Go the rip/crosscut route and see how you underestimate your capabilities.

Joe Scharle · 07-31-2008, 09:51 AM

Cutting a well defined rectangle from solid stock is tricky and will certainly remove too much stock. Only pic in my album I could find to show ripping/crosscutting a drawer front is below.
The top stretcher in this pic is from another piece of stock, but the drawer front, end fills and bottom stretcher are from a single board.

Here's what it looks like finished.

Nativespec · 07-31-2008, 10:38 AM

Dave-I built that same table just now-how funny. I drill four holes and use a jigsaw. I then use hand tools to make it square and finally with sanding. The advantage to cutting the hole on the tablesaw is that you can use the cut out for the drawer-especially good for flush fit drawers. The disadvantage is the seam that shows in the apron.

David

farmerbw · 07-31-2008, 05:14 PM

Thanks everyone again for the input. I guess my concern was since I'm going to be doing butt joints (which I forgot to mention) will the end grain look noticeably odd if I go the rip/crosscut way? I guess I could just switch it around and have the end grain of the short sections show.

Also, regardless of which method I end up doing would 1/2" above and below the opening be adequate?

TIA,
Brian.

DaveO · 07-31-2008, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by farmerbw

Thanks everyone again for the input. I guess my concern was since I'm going to be doing butt joints (which I forgot to mention) will the end grain look noticeably odd if I go the rip/crosscut way? I guess I could just switch it around and have the end grain of the short sections show.

Also, regardless of which method I end up doing would 1/2" above and below the opening be adequate?

TIA,
Brian.

Brain now you have me confused, which is fairly easy to do

. Where are you going to be using butt joints, on the drawers or the apron to legs???
If you use the rip/cross cut method you need a minimum of ¼" wider board than your desired apron width to allow for the two saw kerfs. A ½" + additonal length is good also to allow for good grain matching and kerf loss.

Dave

farmerbw · 07-31-2008, 07:51 PM

Dave, sorry dude I'm not really relaying what I'm trying to do worth a diddley dang.

I just ran down a picture that might help better explain what I'm trying to accomplish. The difference between the pic and how I plan to build is my legs will attach behind the corners of the aprons, not notched into them. So that's where my butt joints will be. I'm also only doing 1 drawer in the center of one side of the apron.

Does it make more sense now or did I muddy the water even more? Sorry to have been so vague, I should have found a pic or drew out my plan to show it. A novel ideal huh?

Thanks again,
Brian

DaveO · 07-31-2008, 09:09 PM

OK that makes more sense now. I would definitely show the end grain of the long apron side as it will be less seen. Or you might consider using a mitered joint to hide all the end grain. I don't think you will see much of a difference in the end grain with a rip/cross cut drawer method. Personally if it was me and I wanted to keep it simple, I would use either a double biscuit joint to the leg or use pocket screws. You could reinforce those with screwed corner blocks if you wanted to make it bomb proof.

Dave

jeff... · 07-31-2008, 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by DaveO

Yep, I would 100% agree with Rob. That is the method I used to make the apron and drawer face on this table -

The only gotcha is to make sure that you allow for the saw kerf in your sizing of the original board. I would add at least ¼" to the width and ½" to the length. It is always easier to trim or plane it down to size later.

Dave

oh now that nice - when did the elves make that?

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