Cutting Board...

[christopheralan]

I feel like I am following the crowd on this one, which I seldom do, but I am folding to peer pressure. I am thinking about making a endgrain cutting board. I think all of the cool kids are making these things, and I am no where near cool, but there has to be something with making these things.

But before I start, what kind of glue, wood and finish are good to use. I have a lot of poplar, oak, and sapelle. Food safe?

[toolman]

A lot of good info Chris!

I have made some endgrain blocks 16 x 24 x 2 and sold them on ebay, Made one 24 x 36 x 3 WOW 100# shipped it UPS, the buyer love it. It was made out of Hard Maple!
The first block I made was Ash 16 x 20 x 2 and I can tell you 3 year after making it, it still looks as good as the day I made it. And I use it very day. I put a coat of Butcher Block Oil on it once a month.

OK

Wood:
1 - The best is Hard Maple, maple helps kill bacteri.
2 - Cherry, Walnut, Mahogany, and Ash, are good as well.
I would use no other. DO NOT USE RED OAK , Maybe White Oak .

Glue: - Titebond III ONLY It is USDA Approved.

Finish: - Mineral Oil or Butcher Block Oil ONLY they are USDA Approved.

Maybe I need to do a How To on End Grain Butcher Blocks?

Chris If you are going to make a block 12 x ??, Glue it up then 1/4 round all top and bottom, and run thru your 12" planner. Then sand and put your oil on. If the block is over 12" you will have to make 2 or more half's. After gluing up the half's 1/4 round 3 sides ONE SIDE WILL NOT BE ROUNDED! Planne both sides at the same time.. Use two bisket and glue the two half's together. Then sand (note: you will have to sand a little bit more than the one 12" or less).

If you do not 1/4 round the sides (top and bottom) it will chip a big chunk out of the side when planning.

[toolman]

Lots of good info here -> http://thewoodwhisperer.tv/7-a-cut-above-pt-1/
(two part episode)

Bas This is a great pod cast.

[PChristy]

Originally Posted by jeff...

I agree with Dave A new fully accessorized Tormex in your future I do see, dangerous a dull knife is.

Didn't look at it this way Maybe I can put the CERAMIC in an end grain frame and still have my wood

[christopheralan]

Wow. A lot of good info. Thanks everyone! I am going to have to print this thread and hit the store.

[Andy Casiello]

Originally Posted by toolman

Maybe I need to do a How To on End Grain Butcher Blocks?

Yes! That would be great! The only plans I have are the Wood Whisperer boards, which I'm making. I'd love to see other examples, however.

I have some purpleheart that I'd like to work into some boards, but it's already surfaced and only 3/4" thick, so the Wood Whisperer method is out. I can figure out how to deal with it, but am interested in other methods and processes.

[Bas]

I have two boards in progress right now (thanks again for the sanding help Dick), woodwhisperer style (if there is such a thing). I learn something new from those pod casts every time. For example, during the glue-up, I noticed he clamped the cauls to the metal bar of the parallel clamps. That is a lot smarter than clamping the cauls to the board. I don't know why I never thought of that.

I plan to finish mine with salad bowl finish (thanks again Scott).
I'm doing all the routing today, I think I'll make a template for the handles. My guess is that once I give the first two away, I'll be making a LOT of these.

[Bas]

Originally Posted by Andy Casiello

I have some purpleheart that I'd like to work into some boards, but it's already surfaced and only 3/4" thick, so the Wood Whisperer method is out. I can figure out how to deal with it, but am interested in other methods and processes.

Todd (tv) built this awesome looking boad, looks like it's from 3/4" stock:


Not sure where the plans came from.

[Shayne]

Wood Magazine October 2006 probably. This is the plan I used a few years back. Worked out nice

http://www.woodstore.net/encubo.html

[Andy Casiello]

Originally Posted by Bas

Todd (tv) built this awesome looking boad, looks like it's from 3/4" stock:


Not sure where the plans came from.

Thanks, Bas. Yeah, that's a beauty! I'd like to try that one out. Looks like the same plan Shayne provided the link to.

[ChrisMathes]

Originally Posted by Shayne

Wood Magazine October 2006 probably. This is the plan I used a few years back. Worked out nice

http://www.woodstore.net/encubo.html

Yep..that's a great plan! I've made a few of those and am getting started on another for Christmas this year. The good part is they give you 3 or 4 different designs and give a few hints on how to come up with your own design...your own design that works

Chris

[merrill77]

Originally Posted by Bas

Poplar and oak would not be good choices. Poplar is too soft, oak to porous. Sapele - no idea. Maple, walnut, purple heart, beech, anything with a tight grain should work.

Tight grain - walnut? Not the walnut I get! It's got pores like drinking straws. IMO, it's the _only_ disadvantage of walnut. BTW, I read somewhere that walnut can impart a taste to your food, though few are likely to notice this. Based on the smell, I would guess this is true.

Cherry has very small pores -- I would think it would be a good choice.

[merrill77]

Originally Posted by PLC'woodart

LOML said that she would rather have CERAMIC cuttin boards Where have I gone wrong

Ceramic? Never heard of such a thing. But if they catch on, I'm buying stock in companies that make knife sharpeners!