crosscut sleds?

[Jonz]

What design are you using? I just bought some incra sliders to build mine and would like to see what other are using.

[McRabbet]

Jonz,

I used 1/2" Baltic Birch for a base and screwed 3/8" by 3/4" hardwood strips after squaring the unit to the table top. Next, I raised the blade slowly through the plywood to wstablish where the cut line would be. Finally, I used a framing square to align the pushing fence (6/4 hard maple) at 90 degrees and clamped it in place. It was then screwed in place with 1-1/2" brass flathead screws; repeated for the back fence. I made mine large enough to handle 32" panels. If it sticks a little, use a cabinet scraper to ease the hardwood runners, and some parafin helps, too.

Hope this helps.

A cross cut sled is one of the handiest tools in my shop.
I originally used hardwood runners on my cross cut sled but found it was too tight in the summer & too loose in the winter. I got metal runners and have been happy with them. No worries about them wearing out either.

[Jonz]

McRabbet, what are the dimensions of yours, as it looks like you have a 1023SL too.

[McRabbet]

1/2" plywood is 36" wide by 33" deep and fences are 46" long by 1-1/4" thick and extend to left side as shown in photo. Push side is 3-1/2" hi, while rear is 2-1/2" hi (available stock!). I plan to add a T-Track along the push fence for an adjustable stop (now I use a small clamp and scrap block) and a guard block on the exit side of the front for safety. It can cut up to 30" panel. BTW, one of my runners is hard maple, the other is UHMW polyethylene (from Lee Valley Tools). Both are secured with small brass FH screws and I have not had any serious binding problems like Mike suggested (it's pretty dry here in the mtns.)

And yep, it's a 1023SL, but the X version with extension fence that can be set at 52" from blade. Sweet.

Originally Posted by Jonz

McRabbet, what are the dimensions of yours, as it looks like you have a 1023SL too.

[DavidF]

Just a thought on runners: The runners do not need to be an exact fit in the mitre slots, unlike a single runner. The right hand runner will be hard up against the right side of the right slot and the left runner against the left face of the left slot, stopping any side to side movement. This way the runners can be narrower than the slot by a significant amount and should avoid the seasonal movement. If the sled base is dimensionally stable the fit should remain the same. Just fix one runner and fix the other one through tiny slots, put the sled on the table and push the moving runner hard up against the outside edge of the mitre slot. Add additional screws to the moving runner in drill through holes to stop it moving.

[TominZebulon]

Excellent idea David. Sometimes the answer is so easy and right there in front of me that I fail to see it. I just got the materials to build my sled and was wondering about my runners. I think I will try that idea and see how it works.

[DavidF]

Well it's certainly easier than fettling runners for an exact fit.

[DaveO]

This is my X-cut sled. No plans, just winged it. I used the Incra runners, and really like the fine adjustability of them. I made the area of the fence around the blade tall, and wide enough that there was not way I couls contact the blade as it passes through. I used some sort of plexiglass for another safety guard, and so I could line up my cuts. I think it will do 22". One of the most used shop projects. Dave

[Monty]

Scrap 1/2" plywood, couple of pieces of scrap 2x4.

[DavidF]

I know this thread should be dead, but I had another thought

If the front piece of the sled, furthest from operator was flush with the surface of the sled, more like a "bread board" end then the depth of the sled would not be the deciding factor in how wide a board can be cross cut. It would have to be applied after the first kerf cut was made and when being placed on the tablesaw the blade would need to be lowered or the sled "placed" on the saw. However, the up side is that a 24" deep sled could cope with a much wider piece if the need was to arise

[Steve D]

One suggestion for an add on - a block at the back where the blade exits. The block encases the blade at the end of a cut so that it is not exposed. I also have mine set up so I can only push the sled far enough to complete the cut. Just adds a little safety to the operation

[Monty]

Originally Posted by DavidF

If the front piece of the sled, furthest from operator was flush with the surface of the sled, more like a "bread board" end then the depth of the sled would not be the deciding factor in how wide a board can be cross cut.

That is how David Marks' sled is constructed:




However, I don't understand how this really significantly increases the crosscut capacity of the sled. The first time you cut something wider than the sled, you'll cut right through your front support piece. Unless you make that piece replaceable? I suppose it WOULD allow you to cut an odd shaped piece, or a miter on a piece that that would otherwise bump into a vertical fence...



Edit: incidentally, that is why I made the front (leading) fence on mine a little shorter -- well, that and it happened to be the length of the piece of 2x4 in my scrap bin at the time!!!! But so far I have not had the need for more clearance in that direction...

[chris99z71]

Personally, one of my main reasons for wanting to build a crosscut sled is the ability to not only do 90° cuts, but more accurate miters. I'd like to be able to do more accurate 45°s and possibly 22.5°s. I don't think it would be all that difficult to put in 3 positive stops for those angles. Is anyone using a setup like this?

[Jonz]

Insomniac you read my mind (scary in there, ain't it?)

Seems that unless you are willing to cut through the block you are still limited to a cut length.