Constructing Light-weight Cabinets

[rick7938]

I am wanting to construct some light-weight cabinets for my wife's horse trailer. They would probably be no more than 12" deep, 24" wide, and 24" high. I am thinking that perhaps frame and panel construction would be the lightest and strongest method for the sides and door using 3/4-inch stock for the stiles and rails and 1/4-inch Luan for the panel. The frames would be joined at the corners by mortise and stub tenon.

1. Does anyone see a problem with this construction method?

2. How narrow do you think that I can make the stiles and rails and retain strength in the panels?

3. Is 3/4-in too deep to run the grooves in the stiles and rails for the panel and stub tenons?

Thanks for any and all feedback.

[DaveO]

1. I see no problem with it. I just finished two large cabinets using the same method.
2. I wouldn't go much thinner than 1½" on the rails and stiles if you are planning to use a groove and stub tenon. You could probably go thinner if you used a full M&T joint.
3. ¾" isn't too deep for the groove. I did mine at a ½" and glued the ply panel in place which adds a lot of strength.
MTCW,
Dave

[nelsone]

Originally Posted by rick7938

I am wanting to construct some light-weight cabinets for my wife's horse trailer. They would probably be no more than 12" deep, 24" wide, and 24" high. I am thinking that perhaps frame and panel construction would be the lightest and strongest method for the sides and door using 3/4-inch stock for the stiles and rails and 1/4-inch Luan for the panel. The frames would be joined at the corners by mortise and stub tenon.

1. Does anyone see a problem with this construction method? How are you planning to connect the panels together and bottom of the cabinet?

2. How narrow do you think that I can make the stiles and rails and retain strength in the panels? I think you can go fairly narrow with the rails and stiles, probably down to 1"

3. Is 3/4-in too deep to run the grooves in the stiles and rails for the panel and stub tenons? They are usually 3/8" deep. I don't see the benefit for going deeper.

Thanks for any and all feedback.

Trailer cabs are usualy a skeleton frame that is skinned over with 1/4 luan and corner molding covering the seams.

[Travis Porter]

My only suggestion is that if you use luan or ply to make the grooves to fit the ply not a 1/4" since the ply is less than a 1/4 and you will want them to fit snugly.

[rick7938]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Ed - I am thinking of attaching the bottom and top to the sides with dadoes in the upper and lower rails of the sides and use glue and screws. I was wondering about gluing the panels into the frame for rigidity. I want to use glue and brad nail the panels to the inside of the frames of the top, bottom, and back so that the surfaces will be flat and smooth.

One other question: When I make the frames, I would like to glue and clamp the frames, then brad the joints so that all of my clamps aren't tied up until they dry. I have an 18 gauge brad nailer. Is an 18 gauge brad nailer too big to pin the frames or should I buy a 23 gauge pin nailer?

Thanks again for the feedback.

[Bernhard]

Rick,

Before I moved here, I had a horse farm in Greenville with24 horses, etc, etc. I ended up buying Rubbermaid cabinets for the horse trailer after ripping out the cabinets that I made. The Rubbermaid cabinets are lightweight, durable, all have smooth rounded edges, can be taken outside and hosed off for cleaning, do not mold and ended up being less expensive the material for the original wood cabinets.

Cheers,
Bernhard

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by Bernhard

Rick,

Before I moved here, I had a horse farm in Greenville with24 horses, etc, etc. I ended up buying Rubbermaid cabinets for the horse trailer after ripping out the cabinets that I made. The Rubbermaid cabinets are lightweight, durable, all have smooth rounded edges, can be taken outside and hosed off for cleaning, do not mold and ended up being less expensive the material for the original wood cabinets.

Cheers,
Bernhard

Now that sounds like a good idea!

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by rick7938

One other question: When I make the frames, I would like to glue and clamp the frames, then brad the joints so that all of my clamps aren't tied up until they dry. I have an 18 gauge brad nailer. Is an 18 gauge brad nailer too big to pin the frames or should I buy a 23 gauge pin nailer?

Thanks again for the feedback.

I actually just did something like that. I used a ¼" narrow crown stapler/18 ga. brad nailer and just shot one staple at each joint. I would clamp the frames to make sure they were snug, and then shoot the staple, and move on the next frame. In a M&T joint or a groove and stub tenon, the clamps only hold the joint together while the glue dries. The tight fit of the joint really provides the "clamp" pressure.
Dave

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by DaveO

I actually just did something like that. I used a ¼" narrow crown stapler/18 ga. brad nailer and just shot one staple at each joint. I would clamp the frames to make sure they were snug, and then shoot the staple, and move on the next frame. In a M&T joint or a groove and stub tenon, the clamps only hold the joint together while the glue dries. The tight fit of the joint really provides the "clamp" pressure.
Dave

How about the "200lbs" of pressure that these glues are supposed to need to bond correctly. But I know your joints are good Dave

Quote:

The PVA glues, (yellow and white glues) all require high bondline or clamp pressure to generate full bond strength. The manufacturer of Titebond glues, Franklin, recommends 150-250 psi of clamp pressure minimum to develop bond strength, (depending on the specific glue and materials). I e-mailed Franklin and asked for test results for joints with little or no clamp pressure. They didn’t respond with numbers, but felt very little strength would result.

[DaveO]

How many of us clamp a traditional M&T joint in a way the forces the mortise walls into the tenon sides to provide the clamping pressure???? Most folks just clamp the M&T joint to hold it at a right angle and keep the cheeks tight against the stock with the mortise.
Dave

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by DaveO

How many of us clamp a traditional M&T joint in a way the forces the mortise walls into the tenon sides to provide the clamping pressure???? Most folks just clamp the M&T joint to hold it at a right angle and keep the cheeks tight against the stock with the mortise.
Dave

Absolutely right, me included, but I suppose just because we all do it, it doesn't make it right Maybe after this thread I'll change my evil ways

[rick7938]

Bernhard,

The Rubbermaid solution would be ideal for me, but, unfortunately, my wife has seen some of those high-dollar trailers with living quarters like the Ritz-Carlton and wants cabinets built to her specs. I am going to try to accommodate her as best my abilities will allow.

Regards,

Rick

[Gofor]

Just remember those two magic words that make a marriage last:

"Yes Dear"

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