Cabinet Construction

[rick7938]

I am getting ready to replace some cabinets in my pantry. I have a couple of questions that I hope that some of you experienced woodworkers can help me with.

1. There is a recessed area in my pantry that is about 4' X 4'. I want to install enclosed cabinets where there are now shelves. Since there are already 3 walls, don't you think that it would be better to just construct the cabinets onto the walls rather than trying to construct cabinets in the shop and hanging them?

2. I want to construct the cabinets over the counter and washer & dryer from 3/4" plywood that is paint-grade. Where is the closest place to Fayetteville that I can get good, stable paint-grade plywood? I'm afraid that the stuff from Lowe's/Home Depot will warp and create a big expensive mess.

Thanks for any input or feedback.

[McRabbet]

Rick,

I'd make the cabinets in my shop and install them on the wall after completion. You'll have much better control of the size and squareness in your shop. Make several measurements of the recessed area to determine the width, height and corner angles and then build your cabinets about 1/2" smaller, except for the outside face frames. Make the outside face frames wide enough so you can scribe them in to fit. And hang them on French Cleats built into the backs with the lower part of the cleats screwed into the wall studs.

One key reason is keeping the pantry available for LOYL and minimizing the mess of on-site built-ins. Check with others for local sources on plywood.

HTH. Rob

[NCPete]

Originally Posted by rick7938

I am getting ready to replace some cabinets in my pantry. I have a couple of questions that I hope that some of you experienced woodworkers can help me with.

1. There is a recessed area in my pantry that is about 4' X 4'. I want to install enclosed cabinets where there are now shelves. Since there are already 3 walls, don't you think that it would be better to just construct the cabinets onto the walls rather than trying to construct cabinets in the shop and hanging them?

carpenters used to do this all the time. we will make a regular practice of replacing this sort of construction as our business grows. I think it is easier to build in the shop, and assemble, then hang the cabinets in the pantry. You may choose from a few different hanging methods. I like french cleats, where the cleat is screwed to the studs, and the casework is hung on the cleat. It can also then be further secured to the wall, kind of a belt and suspenders approach.

2. I want to construct the cabinets over the counter and washer & dryer from 3/4" plywood that is paint-grade. Where is the closest place to Fayetteville that I can get good, stable paint-grade plywood? I'm afraid that the stuff from Lowe's/Home Depot will warp and create a big expensive mess.

Thanks for any input or feedback.

One of the BORG's here in Fayetteville has recently stocked what was called 'Poplar Ply' plywood. I recall it having been reasonably priced, and of apparently good quality.

If you are interested in getting some BB to build your cabinets with, we may be able to piggyback your stuff on our next order, thereby getting a better price, too. If you would like to take a look at our method of construction for a contemporary frameless cabinet, we should be well on our way towards finishing this weekend.

PM me and we can set up a time. Michael and I have our shop (okay, most of it is happening in his shop 1 block from my house, directly under his master bedroom) in a space his wife would like to call the garage some day

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by McRabbet

Rick,

I'd make the cabinets in my shop and install them on the wall after completion. You'll have much better control of the size and squareness in your shop. Make several measurements of the recessed area to determine the width, height and corner angles and then build your cabinets about 1/2" smaller, except for the outside face frames. Make the outside face frames wide enough so you can scribe them in to fit. And hang them on French Cleats built into the backs with the lower part of the cleats screwed into the wall studs.

One key reason is keeping the pantry available for LOYL and minimizing the mess of on-site built-ins. Check with others for local sources on plywood.

HTH. Rob

I would agree this is the way to go. Much easier to put movable shelves in etc when you have sides to the case. Then scribe the face frame as Rob suggests.

[Travis Porter]

I agree with Rob, but I might would allow 1" instead of a 1/2". Wrangling them into a tight area can sometimes be painful. When doing your allowances, see how you will get it into the area, it may take twisting and turning and that gets painful with small allowances.

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by Travis Porter

I agree with Rob, but I might would allow 1" instead of a 1/2". Wrangling them into a tight area can sometimes be painful. When doing your allowances, see how you will get it into the area, it may take twisting and turning and that gets painful with small allowances.

In an enclosed space it may be easier to make the whole cab 1/2" or 1" smaller including the face frame and then scribe a filler piece to the wall and slot it in between the face frame edge and the wall.

[junquecol]

HD carries a shop grade birch made by Columbia Forrest Products. It is made at their Old Fort plant ( just at the bottom of the grade going up I-40). Costs $42.99 a sheet. I would avoid their Chinese made plywood that sells for $29.99 a sheet. Lowes now only stocks Chinese made ply, but at American made prices. Boycot Lowes' junk ply. Why pay for something that you aren't getting?

[rick7938]

Thanks for all of the input. You have convinced me that the French cleat is the way to go for all cabinets. I will look at the HD plywood. I would rather pay a little more and get better. If it doesn't look good at my HD, I will try some distributors in Raleigh area.

Just a quick question about the French cleat method. I understand the concept of the method, but do you just surface mount the part of the strip that is on the cabinet and secure with glue and screws, or is it somehow inlet into the carcass of the case to provide additional support? Also, is the strip that attaches to the cabinet attached flush with the top edge to provide additional screw and glue surface?

Thanks for the help.

[DavidF]

Originally Posted by rick7938

Thanks for all of the input. You have convinced me that the French cleat is the way to go for all cabinets. I will look at the HD plywood. I would rather pay a little more and get better. If it doesn't look good at my HD, I will try some distributors in Raleigh area.

Just a quick question about the French cleat method. I understand the concept of the method, but do you just surface mount the part of the strip that is on the cabinet and secure with glue and screws, or is it somehow inlet into the carcass of the case to provide additional support? Also, is the strip that attaches to the cabinet attached flush with the top edge to provide additional screw and glue surface?

Thanks for the help.

It can go anywhere on the back really. If the back panel is 1/4" ply or similar you might want to reinforce that area from the inside.

[McRabbet]

I'd suggest you go look at what our own Tim Hintz has to say on the subject. A good description.

Rob