Backgammon Board Plans???

[MrAudio815]

Hey North Carolina Woodworker Fans,

I was asked today from another to build a Backgammon board. He wants Ebony for sure, but not sure what other woods he wants. His Grandfather has one that has been passed down through the years. I am not sure how to build one and wondered if anyone has? And has any plans they can share or help me build? Oh and he said he would like for it to have a Chess board on the opposite side.

Here is a picture of one he really wanted: consisting of these woods Amboyna, Ebony, Satinwood, Holly, Mother-of-Pearl, Varnish.

This is from: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...e.aspx?id=4310

How many hours do you think this will take with veneers?
And how long if I used Hardwoods?

Thank you for your help and or advice!

[DaveO]

That's a fairly simple project IF you have good veneering/marquetry skills. Both the Backgammon and Chessboard layout would be veneers. The frame of the box could be solid wood. The Backgammon chip trays would also be routed out of solid wood.
After a bunch-o-searching I can't find a good layout for the board design. I would go to a store that sells a board similar in size to what you are interested in and pull a few measurements off it for the layout.

Supposedly FWW issue #33 has a great plan, but I don't think I was born when that issue came out. Maybe some of the folks with full collections of the mag might look and see if there is indeed a plan in there.

Dave


Dave

[WoodWrangler]

I have that older issue and will check it out for you ...

[Bas]

Great project. I've played quite a bit of backgammon, but my woodworking skills haven't progressed to the point of making a board like that.

A few thoughts:
- You can use the poker chip tray process for backgammon pieces as well. There was a good post here on the subject not too long ago
- Definitely veneer the board, and pay particular attention to wood movement. You do not want this thing to crack.
- Bigger is better. I've played with several dozen boards, and large is good. You want big pieces. Think shuffleboard, not quarters.
- Contrast is important. Ebony and Holly would be perfect for the points.
- Wooden boards make an awful noise when rolling the dice, moving the pieces etc. I wonder if you could use thin layer of cork over the substrate, and do the inlay in that. Blending it might be very complicated though, you do not want edges to curl up.
- Make sure there is enough room in the case for dice cups, dice, doubling cube, perhaps even a pen and scorepad. The case in the picture looks gorgeous but lacks in storage.
- Make sure your design includes a handle to carry the board. This may seem obvious, but it's easy to forget and actually not so easy to incorporate.

I'd probably build the case first, as a box, and saw it in half with a big band saw (this is why you make friends here on NC WW ). Then make the board and glue it in.

A chess board on the other side is not very practical if this is a true backgammon board. It will get dinged on the outside, and there is always the gap to contend with between the halves. Plus, where would you store the pieces? If he wants both, you might be better off making a backgammon table with a chessboard top. The table has the advantages that it can be big with tall sides so the dice don't flop out (always a danger in the heat of the match), and gives you added room for the chess pieces.

OK, thanks Matt, now my to-do list is even longer!

[McRabbet]

The Backgammon Board in FWW #33 (pp 66-67) is an interesting approach, particularly following DavidF's beautiful contrasting wood bowl he reported on last night. This board is made of contrasting 4/4 solid wood strips (he suggests cherry/poplar or walnut/ash) glued up into a large panel (his final board is 19-1/2 x 26). Then it is cut on the bias with a special 12 degree taper jig he describes. He shows how to determine strip widths in detail, as well as final lengths. Since the angled cuts cross the dark and light wood, perfect diamonds are formed that are re-glued to form the two sides of the board. A bar is added to cover the center "extra diamond strip". Some molding and it is finished. It looks fairly straight forward. I guess Jeremy has committed to make a copy for Matthew, but if he doesn't find his copy, give me a shout by PM with an email address.

[walnutjerry]

Matthew----------There is a pic of a backgammon board i built in my gallery. It is not what you seem to have in mind but you can see the ratio of width and height of the points. The ratio, BTW, is: base width equals diameter of the STONES(proper name for the playing pieces) and the height is 5 x the diameter of the stones. Just a bit of trivia I picked up on when i was selling at craft shows.

Good luck to ya!!


Jerry

[MrAudio815]

Originally Posted by DaveO

That's a fairly simple project IF you have good veneering/marquetry skills. Both the Backgammon and Chessboard layout would be veneers. The frame of the box could be solid wood. The Backgammon chip trays would also be routed out of solid wood.
After a bunch-o-searching I can't find a good layout for the board design. I would go to a store that sells a board similar in size to what you are interested in and pull a few measurements off it for the layout.

Dave

Well I have never done inlays before and don't see how it can be fairly easy, or maybe I'm just scared to have the oh crap factor happen multiple times. And the fact that I don't have any of those woods, inlays etc. Would love some help, if the kid gets a loan from his wife's settlement check to actually put a down payment so I can get the materials

Dave if you wouldn't mind giving me a how to, when I come by to get a lesson on the HF lathe, that would be great.

Sincerely,

[MrAudio815]

Originally Posted by Bas

Great project. I've played quite a bit of backgammon, but my woodworking skills haven't progressed to the point of making a board like that.

A few thoughts:
- You can use the poker chip tray process for backgammon pieces as well. To place in the box to hold the chips instead of making one out of wood?There was a good post here on the subject not too long ago
- Definitely veneer the board, and pay particular attention to wood movement. Would it move a lot with inlays? I don't want it peeling up down the road. You do not want this thing to crack. Sure don't
- Bigger is better. He was saying the same thing, wante it to be around 2'x2' I've played with several dozen boards, and large is good. You want big pieces. Think shuffleboard, not quarters.
- Contrast is important. Ebony and Holly would be perfect for the points. So what would work for the background?
- Wooden boards make an awful noise when rolling the dice, moving the pieces etc. I wonder if you could use thin layer of cork over the substrate, ??? Confused and do the inlay in that. Blending it might be very complicated though, you do not want edges to curl up. How about putting cork board in between the inside piece and the outside piece? 1/4 top, 1/4 cork board, 1/4 inside game board???
- Make sure there is enough room in the case for dice cups, dice, doubling cube, perhaps even a pen and scorepad. The case in the picture looks gorgeous but lacks in storage. He was very perticular about that, He also talked about having a table that had drink holders and other things so you wouldn't have to move to much, but then he said he deffinately wants it mobile with a handle.
- Make sure your design includes a handle to carry the board. This may seem obvious, but it's easy to forget and actually not so easy to incorporate. Thanks

I'd probably build the case first, as a box, and saw it in half with a big band saw (this is why you make friends here on NC WW ). Then make the board and glue it in. Will have to get some help with the bandsaw, don't have one.

A chess board on the other side is not very practical if this is a true backgammon board. It will get dinged on the outside, and there is always the gap to contend with between the halves. His fathers is leather bond, and the triangles are made of white and black leather, maybe to soften the sound. Plus, where would you store the pieces? If he wants both, you might be better off making a backgammon table with a chessboard top. The table has the advantages that it can be big with tall sides so the dice don't flop out (always a danger in the heat of the match), and gives you added room for the chess pieces. Yes I will make him aware of that tomorrow in class (F-15E Radar class)

OK, thanks Matt, now my to-do list is even longer!

Very good, You always want to make sure your list never gets to small as you could actually get everything done and then what would you do with yourself?

Thanks again!!!!

[McRabbet]

I'm sending Matthew a copy of the FWW article. It is not made with veneer, but from alternating strips of light/dark wood cut on a bias and the reglued to form the board diamonds.

[MrAudio815]

Thanks WalnutJerry,

Will have to search for those pictures. 5 x the diameter of the stones? So if the stone was 1" round then the height of the box has to be 5"? both sides?

Oh and how much did you happen to sell those for? PM if you'd like.

Thanks again!

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by MrAudio815

Dave if you wouldn't mind giving me a how to, when I come by to get a lesson on the HF lathe, that would be great.

Sincerely,

Matthew I will be happy to tell you what I know or think. But I don't have a very good working knowledge of veneer, and especially marquetry. I know the basics, and hope to figure it out from there.

Dave

[walnutjerry]

Mat----------www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/388/backgammonboard-redoak.jpg

This is where you can see the backgammon board I did. i don't know how to post the image anymore. Been too lazy to learn the new approach.

Jerry

maybe one of the moderators will post it from my album.

[Bas]

I once saw a board that was 1/4" plywood, "veneered" with a thin layer of cork, maybe 1/16". The triangles for the points were painted onto the cork - functional, but not very woodworky.

I was thinking, what if you instead cut the triangles out of the cork, and then replaced it with 1/16" Ebony & Holly. You should be able to cut the cork with a very sharp knife. The trick of course is to make sure you have a really good bond between the ply and the cork, and you have no fuzzy edges. Not sure if it's feasible. But it would greatly simplify the marquetry process, AND make the board a lot quieter.

[erasmussen]

check this out, a jig for cutting the wedges

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8008

[NCPete]

sweet looking board, Jerry!