2 Big Cabinets or 4 Little Cabinets?

[Arguseyed]

So I'm starting to sketch up a wall unit / entertainment center that I'm going to attempt to build and need some advice. My basic plan is to construct base cabinets with bookshelves attached to the top. As you can see, I've got 2 large cabinet areas that will be offset by a couple of inches depth wise, and then 2 tiny cabinets that will be the base for a desk. My original thoughts on the larger cabinet areas was to make each out of 2 smaller cabinets. But as always, I second-guess myself to the point of insanity! and start thinking I'll just build 2 large cabinets. Afterall, Nahm made it look easy on one of his shows

So, what would you fellows that know a whole lot more about this than me recommed?

Jeremy

[DaveO]

Assuming that you are going to make these cabs out of plywood, then I would stick with the design that you have drawn up. It's very hard to get more than 48" out of a sheet of ply and keep the face veneer grain orientation correct. Now if they are being made out of MDF that doesn't matter. Another factor to consider is handling of the pieces, several small cabinets will be easier to move out of the shop and into their home easier than one big one. Breaking them up into several smaller cabs might take a little more stock for face frames, but you will have more accuracy with the smaller plywood cuts and depending on where you get you ply, you can deal with the un-flatness of the sheet easier.
How are you planning on doing the doors? That is often more important that the size of the carcass. Two doors per carcass might result in a busy front if they are smaller carcasses. Only one door might be to big and heavy if they are larger carcasses. Overlay doors would be more forgiving in the larger application and inset doors would look better in the smaller application.
MTCW,
Dave

[Gofor]

I would continue the design until you add the doors. Altho the cabinets look " square" the doors on the left two (assuming 2 doors per cabinet) may balance well with the desk. The doors will be the features that catch the eye and determine if it looks proportional and or balanced. The design of the doors will also play into this.

JMTCW
Go

[Arguseyed]

As I lay in bed last night thinking about it, I decided smaller cabinets would be the way to go for all the reasons you mentioned Dave. As far as material choice for the carcass, I still haven't decided on MDF or PLY. (the whole thing is going to be painted white to go with the Arts & Crafts style wood trim in the rest of our house). I know MDF is cheaper, flatter and, but also heavier and dustier as everyone knows.

The doors have been bugging me for a while. My thought was a simple Shaker style with the panel being beadboard (not sure If I can find 1/2" thick material or if I'll have to make them myself). I agree that things might get a little busy with 2 doors per carcass. I hadn't even considered inset doors because I figured getting a nice fit was a little beyond my expertise (plus wife says I'm way too anal to try those just yet).

I'll continue the design and post a more polished version for more critiquing if you gentlemen would be so kind.

Thanks,

Jeremy

[Trent Mason]

Jeremy,

I'm by no means an expert, but just looking at it, I would say stay with the original design. It really reminds me of our entertainment center and I think it would look more proportional with 4 cabinets rather than two really large ones. One thing I would add is that you might want to make the top (bookshelf) a seperate piece that sits on top of the cabinets. I'm not sure how tall you were thinking of making it, but if it is too tall, you won't be able to fit it through a doorway and it will be insanely heavy and difficult to move as one big piece of furniture. I'm supossed to help a friend of mine build an entertainment center very soon, so I can't wait to see how it turns out. PLEASE keep me posted. Thanks!

Trent

[Alan in Little Washington]

I agree with DaveO.

Additionally, long door stiles or rails can warp. Draw it up each way, single doors or double doors and see how they look.

I would make the unit out of smaller boxes like you show but, for a furniture look, use a one-piece faceframe everywhere possible (3 ?). Though it doesn't look necessary, you could even install the faceframes at the piece's final location after the boxes are joined- unless you will be moving it someday. Use ply for the boxes, MDF is too heavy and does not hold fasteners (think door hinge screws) well. If you are going to use adjustable shelves and pin type shelf supports you will easily bugger the holes in the MDF

You can use 1/2 MDF panels for the doors. Run them over a tablesaw molding head like a Magic Molder to make your own beadboard panels or get a surface beading bit for a router and make a jig. The beadboard ply available at the Borg is just too thin and sounds it, for my taste, though you could back it with a second layer. You can back rabbet or back bevel the MDF, or multilayer ply to fit the door frames grooves.

[Arguseyed]

Trent - Yes, my plan has been to build the bookcases separately and then attach to the wall and top of the cabinets. You may be waiting a while to see any completed photos. My wife's been waiting on this thing for a year now and I haven't even started! Of course when she first asked if I could build something like this, I didn't own a table saw.....or a planer.....or a jointer....or a router or a dozen other accessories but I do now! She told me I should just sell all the tools and pay someone to come build it for us (OUCH!) So I guess it's time to get serious, she's ready for a ROI.

Alan - never though of attaching the face frames after boxes were installed. Everything I've read seems to favor installing face frames prior to installing cabinets. I'll have to explore that a litte more, thanks for the tip. I share the same opinion on the stock beadboard for the doors. I might use it for the cabinet back since they'll be against the wall but will probably use the router and jig as suggested to make my own for the doors.

Thanks again everyone.

Jeremy

[DaveD]

Depending on how big each of those 'boxes' are I'd make them as separate boxes. I'd install the boxes and then add the face frames. The face frames would span the boxes as appropriate.

I did a big stained mahogany cabinet (9' high x 10' wide) about a year ago and it had about 13 separate (different sized) boxes. The faces of all the boxes were all even. I then fastened pre finished face frame material with biscuits and a few finish nails. The boxes were also fully pre finished before they were even assembled (ad boxes).

All the face frame material was cut to size (about 1" long though) and stained/varnished in the 'shop'. Then it was a matter of trimming to final length on the job site.

One thing you have to do with separate boxes is when you initially install them you have to get the first ones at floor level, plumb/level in all directions if you are going to stack one on top of another. Otherwise you error starts to really magnify as you work your way up toward the ceiling.