1st Try @ a Cutting Board

[Canuck]

On Tuesday of this week, the LOML suggested that I should make something for my sister and niece as we are traveling to Canada next week for a short visit!

I have seen several folks here building cutting boards. Seemed simple enough. Now I know better! I ran (it seemed) all over Raleigh looking for one piece of maple and walnut. I had enough cherry on hand. Using a plan from Wood Magazine, I thought I would tackle their rendition of the end grain cutting board. Everything seemed to be going pretty well until I got to face gluing all of the cutoffs from the blank (48 of them for 2 boards). My biggest issue was controlling the glue squeeze-out and finding it all before I applied the finish. Missed a couple of spots!!!

Oh well. I am out of time, so these will just have to do! (Perhaps if I go up next year, I can volunteer to sand and reapply the mineral oil - getting out the spots I missed.)

(I now have a great appreciation for the great work on cutting boards, chess and checker boards that I see here from all of you!)

Here is a picture (sorry poor) of the "completed" cutting boards!



Wayne

[sapwood]

Looks great to me Wayne
And the lessons you've learned may help the rest of us someday

Roger

[MikeH]

Unless I'm blind they look really good to me. You are always your worst critic. Be proud of them. They look great!

[DaveO]

Awesome Wayne, end grain cutting boards like that aren't the easiest thing to make (that's why I like edge grain boards), and you did a great job on them.
Dave

[Big Mike]

I like that pattern. I saved the issue of wood where they showed how to make those and one day I want to make a few for gifts. You did a nice job. Those are very smart looking!!!

[DIYGUY]

If they were mine they would never get used! Way too nice to be wasted in the kitchen. Ever thought or making backgammon boards?

[skeeter]

Nice loking boards. I like the design.

[TV]

Looks very nice. What did you use for a finish?

tv

[cskipper]

Very cool!

[Splinter]

Nice looking cutting boards. I bet the new owners will be thrilled.

Your right about the glue up on boards like those and checker boards.

[Canuck]

Thanks so much for all of the great feedback, everyone!

Originally Posted by snowshoehare

Looks very nice. What did you use for a finish?

tv

Todd,

I used "Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish". It went on pretty easily, but in spite of the FDA approval for food contact(as indicated on the can label), I think that it smelled pretty strong out of the can?

I think that if there is a "next time", I will just use some good old mineral oil!

Thanks again, all!

Wayne

[toolman]

DaveO is right End Grain Butcher Blocks are hard to make.
Your two blocks look very GOOD

My first one seats on our kitchen. It is made of Ash, the size is 16 x 20 x 1 3/4. I have a lot of BOBO's on mine. The next on I made was 22 x 32 x 4, 100# in all. I made it in 3 part then glued them together, Turn out A1 and sold it for $450. made of Hard Maple.

Did you use rough cut wood or finished? I you rough cut, I was getting it from Wall's Lumber in Mayodan. But now I get it from Jeff..+.

I like your pattern!!!!

Once you cut on a end grain butcher block, you will never go back to the others!!!!!!

[DaveO]

Wayne all finishes once fully cured are food-safe and non-toxic. The Watco Butcher Block Oil is a long-oil alkyd finish suspended in MS and a touch of Xylene, and that is what gave you the smell. Long-oil Alkyds are polymers formed by combining a oil (often linseed oil) with polypol(s) and polyacids. It's esentially a thinned Polyurethane.

From Jeff Jewitt's site:

Varnish



<SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal">Varnish refers to finishes that are made from drying oils like linseed or tung and tough, durable synthetic resins. Some varnishes are simply solutions of the resin and oil, like phenolic resin varnish. Others like alkyd varnishes and polyurethane are really drying oils like linseed, tung or soya oil that's modified with chemicals called polyols and acids. This forms an oil/resin structure called an alkyd. Because alkyds contain residual oil they dry by the same process as true oils – polymerization, but the resin makes the finishes more durable than oils. In fact, oil-based varnishes are the most durable finish that can be easily applied by the average finisher, surpassing most of the other finishes in water-resistance and resistance to heat, solvents and chemicals. There are three general groupings of varnish. Those based upon a high percentage of oil in the finish are called long oil varnishes. Medium length varnishes have a lower percentage of oil and short oil varnishes even lower. The ratio of oil to resin affects the hardness of the varnish. Long oil varnishes are also known as marine varnishes, spar varnishes or just plain exterior varnishes and are elastic and softer than short oil varnishes. Short oil varnishes are for industrial use and require baking to cure properly.

wow those cutting boards are great man

[Travis Porter]

Be very proud of them, they look great! I have yet to try the complex patterns I have seen in cutting boards. If I ever finish those 2 play houses maybe I can build furniture again one day.