Where to Buy Wood Porch Railing??

[LeftyTom]

I have about 29' of wood railing, which includes about 87 balusters. Replacing this with aluminum will cost me a cool $2400. Two sections of the railing are over 7' long, which rules out the selection at Lowes and Home Depot (all I want in only 6' sections).

Can anyone suggest shops in the Triad area who stock or do this type of woodwork?

[DaveO]

What does the profile of the railing look like? It might be something that you could make yourself.
Dave

[LeftyTom]

Dave, I am considering doing it myself. The original rails have the profile of "off the rack" lumber, which doesn't hold paint well. So I am guessing they did the railings with PT lumber, and balusters with a square profile.

I can get some poplar for the rails, and round-over or ogee the edges. I may spring for more decorative balusters. Then sand, prime, and paint all the new parts before I dismantle the present railings

[DaveO]

If you do decide to DIY, you might consider using #1 grade KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) pine as it holds paint much better and is a better grade of lumber. Also priming with a shellac based primer would help also.

Dave

[LeftyTom]

I will make a note about the #1 KDAT pine. Thanks Dave. There is a small lumber yard about 3 miles from my home, and another one about 8 miles away.

I can use an oil-based paint over the shellac-based primer, correct?

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by LeftyTom

I can use an oil-based paint over the shellac-based primer, correct?

Yes, you are correct. A primer like Zinsser B-I-N is great for sealing Pine and completely compatable with oil-based finishes. I don't know how well it or any painted finish will hold up to a power washer though


Dave

[wilkesland]

Hey Tom

I'm not too far away from you and I will be in the market for porch railing as well as decking in the future. Was going to build our porch this summer, but bypass surgery has delayed that a year. Soooo, would you mind sharing your source when you make your purchase?

Thanks

Barry

[junquecol]

Forget the idea of using popular for railings, unless you want to do it again in a couple of years. Popular basically has no rot resistance. First choice would be redryed treated pine, second redwood, and third would be straight grained fir. Also go to Lowes/ HD and look at the treated 2 X 8's, 2 X 10's, and pick the cleanest ones that were sawn from the center of the log (basically quartersawn). Dry them , stickered in garage/ shed, for a couple months, and then cut sizes needed from them.

[LeftyTom]

Barry, I will let you know how my search turns out.

Roaring River? Do you know Keith Briand?

[LeftyTom]

Bruce, I am a man of strong discipline, but patience is not one of my virtues. I would prefer to get it completed before July.

[wilkesland]

Tom

Nope - don't know Keith - actually don't know too many folks here other than in our immediate neighborhood, which is actually Shepherd's Crossroads, about 8 miles away from Roaring River

Barry

[Gofor]

I'll second Bruce's (junquecol's) recommendation. The treated lumber after it has dried is pretty stable for a finished surface. I coat mine with one or two coats of Kilz 2 (waterbased), before topcoating. If the 4x s split when drying, I fill the cracks with Elmers Exterior wood putty. After machining (ie running the router to round over the edges, etc), give it another couple weeks to dry before coating. If you have any resinous knots, the ACQ treatment will not penetrate, so bleeds out into the coating. Wipe with some DNA and let dry before coating. For a porch rail, I would recommend a semi-gloss or full gloss topcoat, as it will last longer under a rain/sun exposure than flat.
After coating, and when subsequent pressure washing, I would recommend using the spray tip, not the rotating tip. The rotating tip is too aggressive for most coatings.

Go

[benzor]

With the new chemicals used on the PT pine, I would recommend you use SS nails, screws. A company called Wilder's Inc 2406 Alwin Ct, Raleigh 919-833-2761 has the complete selection of nuts, bolts, screws (I don't think nails). I have always found their stock to have what ever you need and good prices. Good luck with you rails, they are a tricky one.

[LeftyTom]

Barry, you've been PM'ed.

benzor, I will use SS screws. I've some 2 1/4" SS screws left over from last summer's composite decking expedition, and a pound of 2 1/2" SS screws (I bent a bunch, company sent me some as a consolation prize, but I tole them the wrong length )

gofor, what is ACQ? DNA (as related to wood)?

[jerrye]

Originally Posted by LeftyTom

gofor, what is ACQ? Ammonia Quaternary Compound, a pressure treating chemical

DNA (as related to wood)? Denatured Alcohol

Both terms are in the Lexicon. Top task bar click "North Carolina Woodworker Info" and select "North Carolina Woodworker Lexicon"