Someone to put in 220V

[rahimlee54]

I am looking for someone around the Triad that wants to put in a 220 V outlet in my garage, breaker is in there.

Thanks

[MrAudio815]

Ah you can do it.... If I can do it, you sure can.

Here's some pic's of my 220v install before I connected it to the box.


Another pic of where I was running it too. I would suggest making a little wider hole and getting a long bit with a right angle to get inbetween the 2x4's


This was the tough part for me


Wire ran and box put in


All put together


Up close pic, all connected


And then I made a 15' 220V extension


And there you have it



Just go to lowes, talk to one of there electricians, tell him what you are powering. They will hook you up with the parts you need. Then follow the directions in the box and waa laa, you did it yourself.

I had no electrical experience before this.

[rahimlee54]

I have put in like 3-4 outlets here at home, but I am kinda apprehensive about opening the breaker box, maybe I will at some point. What gauge romex are you using there?

[McRabbet]

The wire size depends on the load, but if you are going to run a wire in the wall like Matt did, I'd recommend that you still use #10 wire which can support up to 30 amps at 240 V even if you only need 20 Amps now. If you have a tool that requires a 20-amp circuit now, use #10 anyhow and install a 20-Amp breaker because that is what is needed for that tool (the breaker can be upgraded later if necessary to 30-Amp). Notice that Matt drilled studs at their centers -- be careful not avoid driving drywall screws (you should use 1-1/4" screws) on the same line as those holes when you patch the drywall. Personally, I prefer 3-wire twist lock receptacles versus the style that Matt used, but that's just my preference.

[Bas]

Originally Posted by rahimlee54

I have put in like 3-4 outlets here at home, but I am kinda apprehensive about opening the breaker box

It's not that difficult, but I can understand feeling apprehensive about it. If you install the box yourself and run the Romex all the way to the panel, then 90% of the work is done. Which means you minimize the cost of having an electrician come out. From what I can tell, most electricians prefer wiring a new breaker to cutting drywall too Just make sure you leave 2ft of spare wire at the panel. Besides the box and Romex, you'll also need a non-metallic cable clamp, most likely 1/2" (size of the knockout in the panel).



If you need to drill through several studs, you may find you don't have a drill bit long enough. Harbor Freight sells some long ones for cheap, they won't last very long but for the once-in-ten-years jobs they're good enough.

[gdoebs]

I've run 2 220v circuits in my shop. It's pretty easy once you know what you're doing. I found an article in a magazine that showed how to run a 220 circuit but get 100 outlets as well. I did mine that way and it's pretty handy. If you wanted to save a little money, you could probably run the wire and just get an electrician to connect it to the box for you.

[MrAudio815]

Originally Posted by gdoebs

I've run 2 220v circuits in my shop. It's pretty easy once you know what you're doing. I found an article in a magazine that showed how to run a 220 circuit but get 100 outlets as well. I did mine that way and it's pretty handy. If you wanted to save a little money, you could probably run the wire and just get an electrician to connect it to the box for you.

What do you mean?

"In a Magazine that showed how to run a 220 circuit but get 100 outlets as well?"

Do you mean you got a hundred outlets from your one 220v circuit? Got any pic's or the magazine article?

[mkepke]

Originally Posted by MrAudio815

What do you mean?

"In a Magazine that showed how to run a 220 circuit but get 100 outlets as well?"

Do you mean you got a hundred outlets from your one 220v circuit? Got any pic's or the magazine article?

I think he means he ran a 240V circuit that also supported 120V circuits (both 240V outlets and 120V outlets are fed by the same run of cable and breaker - called a "multiwire circuit")

As far as your circuit goes, I'd recommend buying a copy of the Black and Decker book "Home Wiring". Usually available at the big box stores. It contains step by step with pictures for wiring a 240V circuit - although I like MrAudios pix () he didn't show how to actually make the connections as well as a couple other important steps.

Get the book, read the book. If you're still not comfortable, get an electrician or a knowledgable friend to help (in person). There are several here on North Carolina Woodworker..maybe someone in your area could help.

-Mark

[Mt. Gomer]

Originally Posted by mkepke

I think he means he ran a 240V circuit that also supported 120V circuits (both 240V outlets and 120V outlets are fed by the same run of cable and breaker - called a "multiwire circuit")



-Mark

DISCLAIMER
I'm not an electrician, just an experienced DIYer so the following should not be taken as professional advice. I HIGHLY recommend speaking to a licensed professional before installing a multi wire type circuit as I have no idea how they are regulated by code. Unless there is a very good reason, and you've researched code requirements, I'd suggest separate circuits for 220 and 110 applications.
DISCLAIMER

Yeah, the trick is you need a neutral so you'll need to run 12/3 (for a 20A circuit). A regular 220 circuit has two HOT wires and a ground. With 110 circuit you have a hot wire (with alternating polarity), a neutral which completes the circuit, and a ground. In the 220 circuits the two hot wires (if the breaker is installed correctly, you have to be careful if you're using the slim breakers) are always opposite polarity so there is no need for a neutral.

A regular 220 circuit is usually run with 2 conductor wire. Black is hot for one side of the breaker, White (should be taped black at both ends so anyone looking at it later will know it is HOT) is hot for the other side, and the ground. If you want to run a branch of 110 off your 220 line you'll need a neutral for that section of the circuit. I've heard that some people cheat and use the ground for both neutral and ground but this is a BIG NO NO. Don't do it. The correct way is to run 3 conductor wire from the box: Black = HOT, Red = HOT, White = Neutral, bare = ground. When you get to your first 220 outlet wire the two hot wires to the outlet, along with the ground and just ignore the neutral. Use a wire nut to attach it to your next stretch of wiring and move on. When you're ready to do a branch of 110 then use 2 conductor wire to extend one HOT conductor (may as well use black so that the wiring colors match up), the neutral, and the ground. You're basically extending one half of the circuit along with the neutral wire. It would also be possible to wire the whole circuit using 3 conductor wire and alternate 220 and 110 outlets by bypassing the wire you don't need. For 220v wire both hots and bypass the neutral, for 110 bypass a hot and wire the neutral.

WARNING: There is a lot of potential for danger here. While this is a cool bit of knowledge and I enjoy understanding why/how things work (which is why I'm attempting to explain it), if it's done incorrectly, or even done correctly but not labeled well, it can cause big problems. This is why I'm pretty sure it's not "code."

1) If you mis-wire your 110 branch your 110v outlets could be 220. All kinds of bad things could happen in this circumstance. This is especially possible if you attempt the latter example of alternating voltages using 3 conductor wire. Many chances for mistakes.

2) It's not very intuitive to go looking for a 220 breaker if you're trying to cut power to a 110 circuit. This in itself may be a big reason it's not code.

So, yeah, it's possible, and if done right works just fine but in the end I'd say in most cases you're better off keeping them separate. I'm a strong believer in the KISS principle.

Pop Quiz: Ever wonder why your 220v Stove has a 4 prong connector but your Table Saw only has 3? If so, from the above explanation you should be able to now figure it out. Hint: The stove needs 220 but the oven light and clock only need 110.

Travis

[gdoebs]

You got it. 220 and 110 outlets on the same circuit. I ran it with 12/3 wire and the outlets are in a double gang box, clearly labeled as 110 and 220 with the amp rating as well. I'd check the codes in your area first. I mentioned it my electrician and he didn't see any problems with it.

I can't remember which magazine it was. I think I saved it so I'll try and find it.

[Bas]

Yup, great solution, but let's not make this more complicated by suggesting a multi-branch circuit here... wiring your first 220V outlet is difficult enough.

[rahimlee54]

Originally Posted by mkepke

I think he means he ran a 240V circuit that also supported 120V circuits (both 240V outlets and 120V outlets are fed by the same run of cable and breaker - called a "multiwire circuit")

As far as your circuit goes, I'd recommend buying a copy of the Black and Decker book "Home Wiring". Usually available at the big box stores. It contains step by step with pictures for wiring a 240V circuit - although I like MrAudios pix () he didn't show how to actually make the connections as well as a couple other important steps.

Get the book, read the book. If you're still not comfortable, get an electrician or a knowledgable friend to help (in person). There are several here on North Carolina Woodworker..maybe someone in your area could help.

-Mark

If anyone is in the area and want to help out, I'd be willing to pay/feed them for the tiime and travel .