small pieces of thick steel plate

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 06:48 AM

I need a couple of small pieces of 1.25" or so thick steel plate. By small I mean really smalll - 3" x 2" and 2" x 2". They need dead flat parallel faces.

EDIT - Oh yeah - Cary/Apex/Raleigh area.

Jim Murphy · 03-20-2008, 07:29 AM

Andy,

There are rules.

You must follow the rules.

I'm sure you know "No pics, didn't happen."

But you forgot that you cannot, you absolutely cannot ask for something obscure and not advise us WHY you want it and WHAT you're going to use it for. Didn't you read WoodWrangler's post, asking for acrylic, and within moments, someone asked, "What'cha gonna do with it?"

So,

Why do you want this and what are you gonna do with it?

BTW, I've no idea where to find this. I'm just up early enforcing the rules.

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 07:44 AM

I have an oddball 14" band saw that uses the same upper casting as a bunch of others, but a different lower one that results in it being 1.25" shorter. I have a riser kit on the way that will fit it (Grizzly closeout on the G1019 kits; that saw has the same upper casting). I was going to modify the blade guard and get a different blade, but someone pointed out to me that getting spacers (one for each side of the bolt) would be simpler and give me extra cutting height.

-Andy

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 09:14 AM

I was thinking about this some more on my drive in to work...

I wonder if I could make the spacer out of hardwood ply and then drill holes and glue in steel rod or maybe screw in threaded inserts near the corners so it wouldn't be subject to compression. It needs to be strong because of the weight, tension and leverage, but going all steel maybe over engineering. Besides, I could make an exact fit.

scsmith42 · 03-20-2008, 09:40 AM

Andy, I think that I have some 1-1/4 steel; I'll check later today.

From your post, it seems as if you're building spacers for the blade guard with it, or will this steel be used to align the guides?

Other ways that you could build a spacer are to use some all-thread rod with double nuts, or take some solid round steel and drill it for the appropriate sized bolt, and then machine it to the length that you'd need. You could also use pipe.

Scott

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 09:53 AM

I am talking about a spacer between the riser block and the bottom half of the saw. Basically making the 6" riser into a 7.25" riser. I was going to shorten the blade guard to fit my saw, but if I make a spacer instead, I don't have to do that. It occurs to that I am jumping the gun a bit. I came up with 1.25 because my saw currently takes a 91" blade as opposed to 93.5", which is what most 14" saws take. But in order to get the blade guard on the riser kit to fit, I need to wait until it gets here (it shipped ground a couple of days ago from WA) and figure it more exactly.

scsmith42 · 03-20-2008, 09:59 AM

ok - this makes more sense. When you figure out the dimensions that you need, send me a PM. I'll rough cut it with a plasma cuttter and then set it up the the mill and machine it to spec.

Will a tolerance of .001 be acceptable or will you need it more precise?

Scott

LeeNC · 03-20-2008, 10:02 AM

I can probably help you out. I have access to some odd scrap metal. The faces will only be as parallel as the plate comes from the manufacturer. They should be close enough that you could shim the difference if necessary. PM me if you still need it. I live in the CLT area, but will be in Greensboro next Sat.
LeeNC

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 10:17 AM

That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:

If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.

DaveO · 03-20-2008, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by scsmith42

ok - this makes more sense. When you figure out the dimensions that you need, send me a PM. I'll rough cut it with a plasma cutter and then set it up the the mill and machine it to spec.

Will a tolerance of .001 be acceptable or will you need it more precise?

Scott

Originally Posted by arbarnhart

That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:

If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.

Scott ain't kidding around, he has the capability to make anything you need...I've seen his toys. Not to mention he's a great guy who would help anyone out.

Dave

AndyBarnhart · 03-20-2008, 08:49 PM

Seems like everyone here is friendly and helpful. Are you sure this is the Internet?

-Andy

scsmith42 · 03-20-2008, 09:13 PM

Andy, as I'm sure that you've figured out by now, there is a tremendous group of folks here on NCWoodworker.net. I have learned a lot from the folks here - both about woodworking as well as other areas.

Steve and the admins really do a great job, and the members are just plain great!

I look forward to meeting you in a couple of weeks.

Regards,

Scott

sapwood · 03-20-2008, 09:14 PM

Originally Posted by arbarnhart

Seems like everyone here is friendly and helpful. Are you sure this is the Internet?

-Andy

Hey, wanna buy some . . .

Roger

Gofor · 03-20-2008, 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by arbarnhart

That sounds pretty darn precise to me. So I take it you could just machine the entire spacer out of one piece of metal? The more I think about it, I think I do need all metal. The riser block has a big cavity so the pressure is concentrated around the perimeter:

If you look at the top plate, another one of those is what I am after if I can get it. Thick enough to make up the difference between my saw and a "normal" one.

It will need a hole in it to run the attachment bolt through. It will also need to be thin enough that the alignment pins will extend through it, or you will have to also put alignment pins in the additional spacer.You also may want to wait to see if the riser throws the wheels out of coplaner. If so, you can use the spacer to take out any alignment errors to save a lot of wheel shimming.

Go

junquecol · 03-21-2008, 11:18 PM

Sorry, the old brain was in neutral when I first read your post. I have a length of 5/8' X 2" flat stock. I could cut you two pieces that are 5/8" X 2" X 3". That would give you 1.25 inches added height. Then Scott could drill the alignment pins and bolts. Check to see exactly what size you need. Bruce

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