need a blade stabilizer

flywelder · 01-28-2008, 03:12 AM

I think a Blade stabilizer will certainly help my 10 inch Delta band saw cut straighter / truer.
What are your thoughts on this?

What model should I get?

Where can i get one from?

Flywelder

Marcus Masencup · 01-28-2008, 03:27 AM

Assuming your saw is well tuned and set up properly I would say that a high quality blade will do more to help you. What type of blade(s) do you have right now? What is the problem you are tiring to fix on the table saw? Give us a little more information so we can help you better.

toolferone · 01-28-2008, 04:47 AM

Do you mean a bandsaw or a tablesaw?

DIYGUY · 01-28-2008, 08:33 AM

The only thing the blade stabilizers that I use in my RAS do is reduce the cutting depth. I don't know about their usefulness, most modern blades work just fine without them. Mine are useful when I need a little more 'bite' on the arbor because I have a wide dado setup installed and the mfr washers and nut are overly wide for the little nub left. Other than that I don't believe they have offered me much. Oh yeah - they were bought at Sears about 30 years ago when the Craftsman name still meant something!

NZAPP1 · 01-28-2008, 12:31 PM

I think a link belt will do more then a blade stabilizer to reduce vibration and get a better cut

Sully · 01-28-2008, 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by NZAPP1

I think a link belt will do more then a blade stabilizer to reduce vibration and get a better cut

Link belts work really well.

McRabbet · 01-28-2008, 09:10 PM

Originally Posted by flywelder

I think a Blade stabilizer will certainly help my 10 inch Delta band saw cut straighter / truer.
What are your thoughts on this?

What model should I get?

Where can i get one from?

Flywelder

Did you mistakenly mean your 10 inch Delta Table saw? If that is what you meant, then I would recommend a blade stabilizer -- I have a 5" Forrest one on my Grizzly 10" Tablesaw with my Forrest Woodworker II blade. I got mine through Grizzly, but check Woodcraft or the Woodworking Store for local sources.

But, first and foremost, you must be certain that the saw arbor has little or no (less than 0.004") of runout (wobble in the shaft that causes the blade to wobble out of a single plane as it rotates). This can be checked with a basic jig setup that uses a dial indicator (some of the guys on the site in your area can help you with this). You also may have a heat warp in your blade and it too can be checked for flatness. I'd recommend that you review the Table Saw Tips on NewWoodworker.com, a great website run by one of our members, Tom Hintz. His info and illustrations are superb. Saw setup is the key to clean, straight cuts and if your saw isn't aligned properly, then a blade stabilizer is not the primary solution. Just my .02 and hope this helps.

DavidF · 01-28-2008, 09:19 PM

I agree, assuming we are talking table saw here, that if the blade is a full kerf then a stabilizer isn't necessary, thin kerf then yes it helps. All the other suggestions plus a good splitter that is the actual kerf width, not some little thin thing. I made mine to exert a very small amount of force on the wood towards the fence and the difference in rip cut accuracy was pronounced; and of course, a well setup fence.

flywelder · 01-29-2008, 01:31 PM

Wow, this is great info guys! I was not aware such attachments existed for table saws!

But I am referring to a band saw, not a table saw.

I think I once saw a picture here at this web site, of something --some kind of gizmo, that was attached to a band saw, and having a grooved metal wheel riding against the back side of the band saw blade near where the cutting action would be...has any one seen this image?
The trouble I am having with my band saw is the blade will not track straight ...during a cut in wood ... 2 inches or more think. Instead it begins to curve where I don't want it to go no matter how slow I go. I cannot keep the blade cutting the line I have drawn on the wood. I wish my band saw had the metal wheels that pressed against the blade in three locations, ..like I remember years ago, the machines in high school shop class had....and not the plastic rods that wear away so fast that my Delta machine has now....maybe those three wheels would solve my problem?

I am currently using a
Vermont American 3/8" X 72 7/16" with 4 teeth per inch I think the blade width at the back is .020 (6mm)

I have changed blades three times and still the wandering happens

I await your replies with anticipation!
flywelder
1-29-2008

Marcus Masencup · 01-29-2008, 02:34 PM

Are you using a fence? If so, see if you can adjust for the blade drift with the fence. I have had bad luck with the Vermont American blades. Try a Timber Wolf blade and see if it helps any. Also, be sure that you have the blade guides set up corectly.

Howard Acheson · 01-29-2008, 03:31 PM

If you are referring to a blade stabilizer for use on a bandsaw, I am assuming you mean something like this: www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=20342

If so, that is only used on narrow blades such as 1/8" or 1/16" that are used for scroll saw like applications.

From your description of your problem, I would suspect the blade. It sounds like it is no longer sharp. I would try a new one and then go through a complete alignment of your saw. If the blade is tracking in the center of wheels, then your cut should be straight.

DIYGUY · 01-29-2008, 06:43 PM

Howard's suggestion is spot on. The other thing you might want to check is the blade tension. In general the following works for most bandsaws.

Take the guides away from the blade altogether. Tension the blade so that it deflects less than one quarter inch side to side but not less than 1/8". Turn the saw on. Watch the blade. If it is fluttering excessively something is wrong. Check the tracking. When running smoothly with out any noticeable issues bring the guides in. Raise the blade guide to its highest setting and turn on the saw. Check it again for vibration and/or flutter. Now it is time to align the fence. Forget about the miter slot. Mark a line on a test board and place it against the fence, then start your rip. If the board wants to cut on the outside of the line move the end of the fence toward the blade. If it wants to cut on the inside of the blade move the end of the fence away from the blade.

Unless there is something radically wrong with your saw this little tune-up should make it hum. If it still doesn't work then change the blade. If you are using your saw for resawing you don't need the widest possible blade, but it won't hurt. The advice to make sure your blade is sharp is critical.

Good luck!

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