Forrest WWII Blade

Forrest WWII Blade · 02-15-2006, 03:10 PM

So my understanding is that the Forrest Woodworker II is about the best table saw blade on the market. Is this correct? Also, where is the best palce to buy one? I'm looking at the 10" 40T 1/8". I'm getting closer to being able to set up and run my saw and I figure it should have an appropriate blade in it. The best price I've found is a guy on Ebay who wants $84 + $10 shipping (currently has 7 in stock). Any other suggestions for a blade?

DaveO · 02-15-2006, 03:26 PM

I believe there was an article recently in one of the ww'ing mags. that rated the WWII very high but also rated a few Freud blades right up there also. I personally use a Freud thin kerf combo blade and the Glue-Line Rip blade for big ripping jobs. I have never used a WWII so can compare cut quality, but for the price of on WWII blade you can have buy the Freud blades that I use (yours would be new of course) When I get home tonight I look up that article, I found it surprising 'cause I also thought the WWII was the ultimate blade. My .02, Dave

clowman · 02-15-2006, 03:41 PM

It may be too late for this offer. But Ken M posted an amazon deal a bit back.

Edit
I just checked amazon, they have it for $80.. free shipping. This is for the thin kerf blade. I believe the 1/8 was $95

chris99z71 · 02-15-2006, 03:46 PM

Thanks, Clay! That's an awesome deal, but it's the 3/32" thin kerf. I'd prefer to have the thicker 1/8" since i've got the HP to push it and I think it would be more stable/less deflection if it's thicker. Kinda the same idea as with a blade stabilizer. Am I right about that?

McRabbet · 02-15-2006, 03:50 PM

Chris,

I have a WW II with a Forrest Stabilizer on my 10" Grizzly cabinet saw and I am very pleased with it. I bought it new at Grizzly on my trip up there for about $94. After 18 months of use, it still cuts like a dream. I also like the Freud blades and use a thin kerf one on my Skil Saw for pre-ripping plywood sheets or MDF. It is a great blade, too. Both cut true with no tear out on plywood or other hardwoods. Whatever blade you decide on -- be sure your tablesaw is set up with the miter slot parallel to the blade and the fence, too. I'd suggest you wait and see what deals may be available at the Charlotte WW Show this weekend if you're going. You'll find both blades there, I'm pretty sure. And, by all means, check Amazon.com for both blades.

Rob

chris99z71 · 02-15-2006, 03:59 PM

Thanks, Rob - solid advice. I hadn't even thought of looking for a show special in Charlotte. I'd have been kicking myself for sure!
As far as tuning the saw - I borrowed a magnetic base dial indicator from my Dad when I went home at Christmas. So as soon as the saw gets moved into the basement, that'll be job #2...after running a 220 outlet...

tlself · 02-15-2006, 04:49 PM

I have bought 3/32 WWII's from Forrest for the last 20 years of self-employment and the previous 5 years of employeedom. Send them back to Forrest for servicing and **** the expense. It's worth it for reliability.

Freud, Amana, etc. also make perfectly fine blades. You get what you pay for in tooling.

I have blade stabilizers which mainly serve as wall ornaments.

Steve D · 02-15-2006, 05:04 PM

Chris,

I have the Forrest Chopmaster on my 12" miter saw and it is an awesome blade. The difference as I have seen it is the Forrest seems to remain sharp much longer than other blades I have used. I don't know if it is the carbide or their method of sharpening but that has been my impression. That said, I just bought 2 Lietz blades from xstooling on w'net and I am very pleased with them too. I bought a 24 tooth rip blade and a 80 tooth crosscut. I ordered the blades and had them in my hands 2 days later.

chris99z71 · 02-15-2006, 05:20 PM

My biggest reasons for being drawn to the Forrest blades are their flattness. From what I've heard they're second to none in that category.

As for the WWII in particular, understand that it's biggest strength is that it does both rip and crosscuts well. A dual-purposed blade that makes a half a**ed cross cut and a half a**ed rip isn't worth a whole lot in my book. I'd rather just buy two blades.

McRabbet · 02-15-2006, 05:34 PM

Chris,

I just looked up what I paid at Grizzly for my WWII and 5" Stabilizer -- $94.46 for blade and $19.76 for the Stabilizer. Steve referenced a guy named Xcesstooling on Woodnet that sells excellent blades from Germany -- here is the link -- I may buy some as his prices are incredible!

Rob

erasmussen · 02-15-2006, 05:57 PM

There was a very good artical in the nov american woodworker on table saw blades, i scanned it, ocr'ed it put it in pdf format and zipped it.
BUT I CANT SEEM TO BE ABLE TO UPLOAD IT

erasmussen · 02-15-2006, 06:07 PM

Its uploaded now if anyone is intersted in reading it.

ChrisMathes · 02-15-2006, 06:22 PM

Hey Chris,
Be sure to get WoodGuy's weigh in on this topic. While he seems to like the WWII, he was showing us a comparison of it with another blade he likes better. It had significantly thicker carbide on the blade...can't remember what it was off hand, though...

Good luck,
Chris

mshel · 02-15-2006, 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by wsd1089

Hey Chris,
Be sure to get WoodGuy's weigh in on this topic. While he seems to like the WWII, he was showing us a comparison of it with another blade he likes better. It had significantly thicker carbide on the blade...can't remember what it was off hand, though...

Good luck,
Chris

I have the WWII (no stabilizer) and also the 80 tooth Chopmaster and you can't beat the finish on the ends of the cuts. With a sharp WWII, it almost nullifies the need for a jointer because the cuts are so smooth, you can go from the tablesaw to a glue up without having to joint the edges. There might be some debate on this topic, but it this has been my experience so for me, it is so. I don't use a stabilizer because I feel the 1/8" blade is sufficient to give me a good cut and if a stabilizer is used, it reduces your cut depth by that diameter. Again, speaking from my experiences. There are a lot of blades out there and IMHO, you can't beat the ones from Xcelltooling for the price. I have purchased five from Mike and the one I have on my RAS is just great. 60 tooth negative hook so it doesn't climb and the finish cut is very smooth.
Now for sharpening. I know Forrest recommends sending the blades to them for resharpening but there is an alternative, at least he gets rave reviews on WoodNet. I have contacted him and he gets $4.00 per blade plus $.20 cents per tooth. Minimum blade charge is $10.00. A 40 tooth WWII would cost $12.00 plus shipping. I believe Forrest charges $20.00 for the same configuration. From the reviews he gets, the blades are supposedly sharper than ones sharpened by Forrest. I haven't sent anything his way but I am contemplating sending a couple just to see his quality. Here is his contact info if you are interested.

scottsharpaz@qwest.net

Mike

SteveColes · 02-15-2006, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by erasmussen

Its uploaded now if anyone is intersted in reading it.

Earl, I'm sorry,

but I had to delete it. It is copyrighted material.